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Toxic's 88 Starion


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#1 T0xicsymph0ny

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 08:52 PM

Welp I finally took the dive and bought a Starion. Needs a ton of love, and I have a lot to learn about this thing. Im an autobody tech by trade, and mostly a v8 guy. The only other tubro 4 cyl Ive had was a 03 Audi A4. So I know very very little about the injection system in this thing. My car is clean as far as little to no rust, mainly why I bought it. Kinda ran like crap when i picked it up then it was definitely running on one cylinder when I tried pulling it in the shop. New distributor cap, rotor and NGK plug fixed that. Also put on a new valve cover gasket. And thats about all Ive done so far other than check stuff out. Needs the right outer cv boot and all the bushings replaced. Got mookeeh bushing kit otw, sway bar bushings too, as well as new front strut plates. A new PCV, oil pan gasket and air filter are on the way too.  Plan for now is getting it driving nice and then get to work on a paint job that it badly needs. Someone welded a fake hood scoop on the hood, and im torn if I should just cut it off or cut the hood to make it functional since its welded on anyway. As far as body parts I really only gotta find the rear spoiler, all 3 peices are shot and swelling/ cracked wide open. Id like to find all the rubbers around the door windows. Would like to make 250hp ish by summers end, gunna run a compression and leak down test soon to get an idea of the health of the inside of the motor.

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Edited by T0xicsymph0ny, 22 January 2021 - 09:31 PM.






#2 Preludedude

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Posted 23 January 2021 - 06:26 AM

Welcome.   Lots of info here to help you along.  

I have the window trim for both sides if you need it.

Text me 8645nine064nine9

#3 Jonathan

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Posted 23 January 2021 - 01:23 PM

Welcome aboard. Like preludedude said lots of info here.
Jonathan

#4 TexasQuest

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Posted 23 January 2021 - 06:18 PM

Welcome. This is definitely the best place for SQ knowledge and info.
88 Fiji Blue -TSi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller


View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

<SOS> http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
<SQ Garage> http://www.starquestgarage.com/

#5 markhansenconquest

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Posted 23 January 2021 - 07:04 PM

have driver side wing and rear in black sold passenger side ....75 each plus shipping.

#6 T0xicsymph0ny

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 06:54 PM

Welp changed the front strut mounting plates, lower control arm bushings, and strut rod bushings. Found out my front struts are the originals and shot. The rears someone put some Mookeeh units in there and they seem fine. Though I do need to change the outer diff seals. And learned  the wiring in the engine bay is in rough shape, as was the vacuum line situation. Also kind of thinking of going to an aftermarket ECU but i know jack about tuning. Kinda just want to get rid of the stock wiring, remake a nice wiring harness for the engine bay, MPI conversion and a Dakota Digi dash swap. Not sure how crazy im gunna go super fast. Just doing a lot of research on trying to figure out the whole mess with moving to aftermarket engine management.

Edited by T0xicsymph0ny, 30 January 2021 - 08:38 PM.


#7 TexasQuest

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Posted 31 January 2021 - 01:18 PM

Best thing to do is to get it running first before doing any modifications.
88 Fiji Blue -TSi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller


View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

<SOS> http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
<SQ Garage> http://www.starquestgarage.com/

#8 T0xicsymph0ny

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Posted 31 January 2021 - 10:10 PM

It does seem to run fine. Someone before me installed a BOV and im trying to figure out if the blocked off vacuum lines are done right. Was running super rich, but replacing a couple vac lines, a good tune up and cleaning up the injectors seems to have fixed that. Got some more bushings and seals otw. Waiting for a warmer dry day to take it on a few shake down runs.

#9 T0xicsymph0ny

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Posted 30 April 2021 - 05:32 PM

Been a couple months, haven't done a ton yet. Been driving it around a little bit, runs fine. Definitely needs the rear bushings done. I got a set of coil overs waiting to go in. So planning on next weekend to start doing all the rear bushings, coil overs, diff seals, change the fluid in the diff as well as the trans fluid. Though I did find out my column was lose as all hell and could not get the adjuster to tighten, so I got rid of the adjuster all together and bolted in place where I like it. Swapped the drivers door lock cyl so I can actually lock the thing now. Also been fighting with my power steering tank leaking like a sieve, Ended up buying a generic tank and bolting it up, got lucky there bolt holes lined up nice just one line was the wrong size for it. Starting to look for new wheels b/c my tires are shot and I'd like to update to a big brake kit in the future, lot more reading to do there. Also planning on an engine swap over next winter, it runs good but I know I'll never be happy with 250hp (my original goal for the car) and dont feel like spending the money on the g54b to get it to where I want. Id love to go with an rb26 but $$ might be a bit much for my blood. So fall back plan is a 2jz like it seems a bunch of people have done. Can still find 2jz-GTEs for about 6k around, RB26DETT's are closer to 15k. Id rather spend the 6k I think and have the rest to make sure I have enough funds to do this right than realllllly be stretching my budget to get an RB. Body work can get done whenever, Id almost like to get the swap done and situated well before I worry about painting the rest of the car (less chance of me messing up the paintjob.) I will however do the engine bay while its empty.

#10 T0xicsymph0ny

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Posted 08 May 2021 - 08:58 PM

Finally got a weekend to myself, today I managed to drop the diff and pull the rear control arm/ shock assembly. Wasnt as nearly as difficult as I thought it might be. the one problem I've hit is the bolt that connects the lower control arms to the knuckle/spindle  is stuck and stuck good. Tried everything I could think of today, short of cutting. So I've just sprayed them with a ton of pb blaster and will try again tomorrow, I really dont want to attempt to cut it, I dont think itll do anything but leave them stuck in the knuckle.

#11 obsolete

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Posted 10 May 2021 - 07:14 AM

I would avoid cutting that bolt if at all possible. They are difficult to find replacements for, and expensive.
Buy the ticket, take the ride.

#12 T0xicsymph0ny

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Posted 11 May 2021 - 06:17 PM

View Postobsolete, on 10 May 2021 - 07:14 AM, said:

I would avoid cutting that bolt if at all possible. They are difficult to find replacements for, and expensive.
Yeah I am trying not to, I've already ordered new ones but I'd still like to not go cutting them. Im pretty sure that its the knuckle or whatever you wanna call it that they are stuck in, not the control arm. So I have no idea how I'd even get them out of there if i did cut the lower control arm free.
But ive tried last night and again gave it it a quick try tonight to get em loose but not a budge. So I just keep soaking em in PB blaster hoping that gets in there enough...

#13 T0xicsymph0ny

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Posted 11 May 2021 - 06:30 PM

Also just to update, I got the seals on the diff and cover redone. Sanded down and painted the diff+torque tube. Got the bushings out of the torque tube crossmember and painted that. Ordered all new brake lines and new boots for both axles. Tomorrow hopefully I'll be putting the new bushings in the crossmember and then bolting that in, and get the diff back in and exhaust rehung.

#14 Turbo Cary

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Posted 11 May 2021 - 06:32 PM

Get a bottle of MAP gas with the screw on tip from Home Depot/Lowes for around 30 dollars max.

It is great to use to torch rusted components because it will get the rust somewhat broken free. Spray your control arms where the bolt passes through with PB blaster, allow to soak overnight. Then use the torch on the nut/control arm. It should break loose doing that.

#15 tsi_tom

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Posted 11 May 2021 - 07:04 PM

I never had luck with PB Blaster.  I now use Kroil.
Engine
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Stock injection system

My restoration project: The Missouri Project

#16 T0xicsymph0ny

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Posted 16 May 2021 - 02:20 PM

Lots of heat finally got it. So yesterday I spent all day putting the rear end back together. Moving forward, I have to put the new coil overs up front and I should be done for a while after that.

#17 T0xicsymph0ny

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Posted 21 May 2021 - 11:18 AM

Welp plans change I guess. Got the front coil overs in, took it for alignment annnd they stripped out a tie rod end, not really surprised the threads were messed up before I even got to doing the front bushings and all. Also they say theres a lot of toe in on the rear, which i have no idea how to fix. I noticed before as well, theres a ton of slop in the driveshaft before it engages the rear, not really sure whats going on there... And theres a ton of steering slop. So lots more to go before I can really begin to drive this thing around. yay.

#18 T0xicsymph0ny

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Posted 22 May 2021 - 02:37 PM

Well got the tie rod end ordered, surprisingly inexpensive honestly. After doing some reading here it seems that the coupler at the end of the torque tube shaft may be the culprit of the driveshaft slop and the clunking when I get on the gas. Still stumped on the toe in on the rear dont really know what causes that. And I'm pretty sure the steering slop is the coupler, so another order from mks is going to be placed here shortly

#19 T0xicsymph0ny

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Posted 06 June 2021 - 06:31 PM

Turns out some previous owner already put a coupler in the steering, pulled most of the slop out just adjusting the steering box a bit. Got it aligned "mostly" its a bit off,  rears still not quite right, going to have to see if theres any play in the crossmembers to see if thatll give me a touch more adjustment, and ordering tools to try doing it myself. Beginning to look for rims, I love the look of the stock rims but I want big brakes later down the road so going to have to change. For now Ive finally got a few miles on it and I love driving this car.

#20 T0xicsymph0ny

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Posted 13 June 2021 - 08:39 PM

Welp. Plans change again. Getting new tires for the stock rims later this week, hopefully i can sort the alignment issue after that. But this rear end clunk and whine is driving me insane. Not really sure what to do. Either get this one rebuilt if I can find parts. And hope the whine/clunk isnt from the torque tube shaft that seems to be common. Or to try to find a used one...




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