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Turbo Miata


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#1 Turbo Cary

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 05:21 PM

Finally got around to putting my engine in. Let me know what you think. Did a basic rods only build with a few extra goodies.

1990 Turbo Miata https://imgur.com/gallery/0qNJGpo
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#2 tsi_tom

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 06:39 PM

Looks great!
Engine
20 over forged pistons
Stock injection system

My restoration project: The Missouri Project

#3 techboy

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 06:43 PM

I like! Very nice.
1988 Starion ESi-R ... crushed by a tree 10/31/11 - back from the dead 8/2016
1988 Conquest TSi ... current driver - sold to Bigjoe 6/2016
1987 Conquest Flatty ... F/S thread - sold 8/2014
1987 Conquest TSi ... parts car - sold to Coldscrip 12/2011
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Feeback Thread | Motor rebuild thread | Restoration thread

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#4 ucw458

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 08:48 PM

Air intake needs to draw air from outside the engine bay so it's not sucking in hot air.  But otherwise off to a good start
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#5 Turbo Cary

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Posted 17 February 2019 - 09:19 PM

View Postucw458, on 17 February 2019 - 08:48 PM, said:

Air intake needs to draw air from outside the engine bay so it's not sucking in hot air.  But otherwise off to a good start

It sits right underneath my passenger side hood vent.

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#6 Skullzaflare

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 12:11 AM

i miss my turbo 1.6, i got 37mpg on 93 and 30 on e85.  I enjoyed my recent turbo 1.8 better powerband wise though.

I dont think i could drive a rhd miata though lol
Spark plug elimination kit

#7 tsi_tom

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 08:13 AM

Engine is tilted clockwise?
Engine
20 over forged pistons
Stock injection system

My restoration project: The Missouri Project

#8 croquest87

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 08:31 AM

Looks sweet!

#9 Turbo Cary

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Posted 18 February 2019 - 01:05 PM

View Posttsi_tom, on 18 February 2019 - 08:13 AM, said:

Engine is tilted clockwise?

I thought the same thing but I placed the mount stud into the same hole the old one was in. The drivers side is slotted but the engine wouldn't move anywhere with both of the mounts in. There is no transmission mount on the car just a PPF connecting the differential to the trans.

#10 Ptracy262

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Posted 19 February 2019 - 10:01 PM

Oh my,  looks sweet.  gonna be quick!

#11 louswheel

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Posted 24 February 2019 - 11:09 AM

Looks good man. Those things weigh nothing! With a turbo they must move@

#12 Turbo Cary

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Posted 24 February 2019 - 09:18 PM

Update time. The clutch wouldn't disengage at all. Was like wt..... I bought a clutch made by a company called McLeod through a reputable Miata store. Everything looked ok, matched up but clutch wouldn't disengage. I purchased a different clutch by another miata store in case the first was defective.

The center splined hub section of the clutch disc was installed backwards from the manufacturer. That prevented the release bearing to push the springs inward. New clutch no issue.

So now I got to drive it today and do some tuning. My fuel/VE was way off so I corrected that and was able to do some pulls. Feels good for the most part. I need to increase some timing in areas but it is doing well. I also need to wire my secondary fan up as coolant temps are getting to around 205 and it isn't even hot outside.

#13 Turbo Cary

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Posted 24 February 2019 - 09:37 PM

Clutch differences. Hopefully the company will reimburse me even though I "installed" it. They sent me a defective part but I'm sure I'll hear the argument of you should have looked at it first.

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#14 jinx

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Posted 25 February 2019 - 01:28 AM

McLoed screwed up with my Chevy clutch eons ago.... looks like they're still at it
Didn't know they did imports. Not like I'd mess with em anyway

Is that some FWD head? I thought all miata motors had a front water outlet/thermostat housing

Slight tilt on 4AGE motors too. CA18s sit so crooked, you'd think there was a broken motor mount

#15 Turbo Cary

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Posted 25 February 2019 - 08:00 AM

View Postjinx, on 25 February 2019 - 01:28 AM, said:

McLoed screwed up with my Chevy clutch eons ago.... looks like they're still at it
Didn't know they did imports. Not like I'd mess with em anyway

Is that some FWD head? I thought all miata motors had a front water outlet/thermostat housing

Slight tilt on 4AGE motors too. CA18s sit so crooked, you'd think there was a broken motor mount

It is a Miata head. On the 323/Mercury Capri FWD setups the thermostat is at the rear of the head. On Miatas they put the thermostat at the front but it threw off the coolant flow to cylinders 3/4 doesn't get the same heat dissipation as it should. So I did a coolant reroute. The guy I purchased the turbo parts car from had the stuff but never installed it. Lucky for me it saved me about 150 dollars.

Edited by Turbo Cary, 25 February 2019 - 08:01 AM.


#16 jinx

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Posted 25 February 2019 - 07:49 PM

hot spots become more of a problem when miata 4s highly moded then ? Most hi strung reroute, but not the milder ones
Don't see that issue on hairy toyota 4ag, nissan ca18 or sr20
Several topics on coolant flow concerning RWD 4G63/4, when u take the water out the front of the head... and/or start to mix n match RWD sohc block to DSM dohc head, as the passages and gasket holes differ

#17 Turbo Cary

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Posted 02 May 2021 - 10:05 AM

New update. Got my 1.8 engine bolted in yesterday. This thing is gonna rip. Here are the specs

1.8 BP05 engine from a 99 Miata. Manley rods, Wiesco pistons 8.5:1 compression, Boundary engineering billet oil pump, dual valve springs, 278/278 cams, stock head otherwise

Running my 640cc injectors, dual feed fuel rail, Toyota coil on plug setup, basically everything electronic I just swap over minus the fact im requiring it to run sequential injection now.

I also installed my new crash bar and cut away the old one so there is more flow going to the radiator. Also installing a nice Setrab oil cooler kit

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#18 Turbo Cary

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Posted 03 May 2021 - 04:03 PM

Got more work done today. Built the oil cooler lines and mounted the cooler. I also rewired the injector harness for sequential injection. I used the 8 pin connector from the 99 car I have. Next I need to unpin the factory 6 pin from my 90 and install the 8 pin from the 99 to match the new harness.

In the early 90-93 models if it was Federal emissions then it was wired for batch fire and if it was California emissions it came with sequential. Not sure why they did that. Everything after 93 was sequential injection.

I also need to extend the cam sensor harness an extra foot to reach the sensor since it is now mounted on the exhaust camshaft.

In theory all that's left is to run the wiring, bolt on the intake manifold, swap alternator pulleys and connect the exhaust. Then add fluids,  prime the engine and fuel system then check for leaks

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