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Need help identifying turbo


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#1 GoldStar

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Posted 06 June 2021 - 03:40 PM

So in my quest to replace this head, I have found that the compressor wheel to my turbo shows signs of contacting the compressor housing, so I'd like to rebuild it while I'm waiting on parts. The problem is, I'm not quite sure which turbo this is. This is also the first time I've really played with something turbocharged.
According to the previous-previous owner, the turbo was upgraded to a "16G", but didn't specify anything else about it. From the research I've done, 16G denotes the compressor wheel size.
Below are some pictures I took. Can anyone identify anything more about this turbo? I'd like to order the right rebuild kit.

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#2 kev

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Posted 07 June 2021 - 12:47 PM

I haven't a clue just by the photos...but it still appears to be a 12a cartridge and stock turbine.  Any TD05 mitsubishi turbo rebuild kit should work fine.    They are dirt cheap on ebay.   Take a good look at them though, many do not have the turbine heat shield.

#3 obsolete

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Posted 07 June 2021 - 03:35 PM

That might be a 16G compressor wheel--the compressor housing looks like it's been milled out to me. Like kev said, everything else looks stock. Can you pull the compressor housing off and measure the wheel with a caliper? Remember to mark the housings so you can easily get the parts clocked correctly when you put the turbo back together.
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#4 mikec

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Posted 07 June 2021 - 10:53 PM

A common "16G" upgrade was to take a stock StarQuest TD05-12A turbo, replace the compressor wheel with a larger diameter (and higher airflow/CFM wheel), and machine the inside of the housing (the silver snail-shaped part) to fit the larger wheel.  When this is done, the "2" in "12A" is machined away so future turbo mechanics know it's not a 12A any longer, explaining the dime-size round and shiny spot on your snail's "05-1" label.

As the other posted noted, the majority of the turbo remains the stock TD05 center "cartridge" portion.  That is the center part that bolts to the exhaust manifold, the turbine wheel and the shaft, the support bearings, and the various metal bits/seals inside the center cartridge.  They remain bone-stock TD05 parts during the 16G upgrade so a TD05 rebuild kit will work.  If the compressor wheel itself is damaged you will need a new 16G wheel.

If you grab the nut holding the compressor wheel onto the internal turbo shaft and try wiggling it side-to-side, how much play is there?  A worn turbo will have more than a millimeter of motion and/or the compressor wheel fins will contact the housing.

mike c.

#5 BlueCuda

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Posted 08 June 2021 - 05:36 AM

What is the "Super 16G"  I purchased one of those 20 years ago for my old conquest.  It was a nice upgrade and it ran well beyond the stock fuel system lol.

Where is a good place to purchase a turbo like the one pictured?  The car I just bought but haven't got running yet has some form of 16G on it but the compressor housing is not from a starquest and the WG is rigged on there and it has a small flage with a pipe on it to hook up the intercooler plumbing.  I imagine the janky WG setup is why I bought this car with a blown head gasket lol.
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#6 GoldStar

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Posted 08 June 2021 - 08:23 PM

View Postmikec, on 07 June 2021 - 10:53 PM, said:

A common "16G" upgrade was to take a stock StarQuest TD05-12A turbo, replace the compressor wheel with a larger diameter (and higher airflow/CFM wheel), and machine the inside of the housing (the silver snail-shaped part) to fit the larger wheel.  When this is done, the "2" in "12A" is machined away so future turbo mechanics know it's not a 12A any longer, explaining the dime-size round and shiny spot on your snail's "05-1" label.

As the other posted noted, the majority of the turbo remains the stock TD05 center "cartridge" portion.  That is the center part that bolts to the exhaust manifold, the turbine wheel and the shaft, the support bearings, and the various metal bits/seals inside the center cartridge.  They remain bone-stock TD05 parts during the 16G upgrade so a TD05 rebuild kit will work.  If the compressor wheel itself is damaged you will need a new 16G wheel.

If you grab the nut holding the compressor wheel onto the internal turbo shaft and try wiggling it side-to-side, how much play is there?  A worn turbo will have more than a millimeter of motion and/or the compressor wheel fins will contact the housing.

mike c.

There's quite a bit, i'd say at least 2-3 millimeters. The picture doesn't show it, but on the other side of the compressor housing, I can definitely see where the where the wheel has been contacting the housing. Not seeing any visible damage on the wheel itself though, like it had just cut through the carbon buildup and barely etched the housing itself.

I'll go ahead and get the rebuild kit ordered. Once it comes in I'll pull the turbo apart to see what it really looks like in there and get some measurements of the wheels. Thanks for the help thus far.




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