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I have an 86 conquest and I was wondering if I can replace my stock knock box with another years knock box? Is there anything I'll have to do?

Was cruising Fleabay and saw this intercooler CXracing is putting out there for our cars, Thought it may be useful for somebody. http://www.ebay.com/itm/181528362227?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Ok I have a 17c for sale. I just got this turbo a few days ago. It came on a G54b that i purchased. Im running my 20G so this is not needed. It does not spin freely but after speaking with a few turbo experts it should be still ok since the motor i bought it off of was sitting in a garage forever getting rebuilt. It has no shaft play what so ever. I think that the previous owner possibly rebuilt this turbo since ive seen the time he put in and the condition of the engine. I put my 20g exhaust housing on it because im using the polished exhaust housing from the 17c. The 20g exhaust housing has a crack around it of about 3 inches. My car did not have any exhaust leaks with this housing that i could hear. (surface crack) The Compressor is fully polished and the compressor itself will actually spin around when hooked to the exhaust housing. (not sure why). Someone could have this turbo rebuilt if they are unsure with it but my bet is on that it will spool fine as soon as it gets some warm oil in it. Has no waste-gate actuator on it or lines minus one oil line!. The numbers on the front of the turbo are TR J6 S 17C. The exhaust housing numbers are 0080 D2 34C 13400. This turbo will bolt to the factory manifold! I see they go for about 500ish. So im looking for about half of that to be fair and account for a possible rebuild!. Looking for $175.00 SHipped!!!!

im looking for a 88 - 89 ecu to upgrade my 87 with let me know what you have thanks

So here is my list of all my upgrades, yet I still can't get a constant 14.4 nor even a constant 12 volts. Even if I turn off everything at times the car takes forever to charge up, or if the headlights are on it will only show 10 volts. Maybe you guys can help me decide what to do next.. Charging: 4ga ground from alternator to engine block 6ga piggyback wire from alternator to battery for increased charging capacity (with fusible link) dual factory sized fusible links on charging harness from alternator to battery (going to a single 12ga fusible link with the single 6ga charge wire next) Note: When car first starts power shoots to 14 volts. if I turn on lights, heater, radio and everything it comes down to 12. If I sit at a light with brakes lights on it may drop, it may not, if I sit at a stop with a turn signal it will start to decrease, but nowhere near what it used to, the surge of the blinker is almost unnoticeable now. Note: driving with radio and all accessories off did notice the voltage fluctuate when I hit a bump..? this is random and it's not by much Note: driving at night with lights on will cause voltage to drop, driving at 2k rpms will sometimes recharge the voltage, sometimes faster then others, sometimes it hangs at 10v for a mile or two Stereo: 4ga wire from battery to-- 100 amp inline fuse after battery to-- 4ga wire to 1.25 farad capacitor to amp-- 4ga wire from cap to inline 100 amp fuse-- 8 ga wire from 100 amp inline fuse to amp amp is grounded with 8ga--cap is grounded with 4ga to the bolts that hold the electrical device in front of the spare tire.. Note: Sound system seems to be in perfect order with almost no/if any power surges under bass. Ignition: cleaned up ignition switch-- replaced hot wire from connector to switch with 8ga wire soldered in on original terminals(yes it fit) Note: this made my lights brighter, my wipers work faster, the turn signal surge almost disappear, blinkers blink faster, heater blows harder.. Added: 35w 6000k VVME HID kit, I am now HID spoiled Removed: AC condenser pusher fan (it was burned out and suspected amperage draw) Coming soon: Blower Fan replace (Heater seems to draws a lot of power, normal maybe?) Rad fan replace (old motors can draw high amps if they are worn and on their way out) thinking about: CS130, maybe even CS144 mod Secondary battery in trunk (Maybe just replace front with bigger in the back in Battery box) Overall my charging and electrical is working top notch, when it works correctly. With stereo turned on full blast it will hold 12v for a good while. I have gone through every ground on the car IAW with PQ's write up. I'm thinking my alternator is questionable but hate to replace it with another OEM and get another headache in a few months, opinions on this? since I can't get a bracket for a cs130 I'm working on manufacturing my own next week, but I can't take the car down except on sundays and it has to be back together come monday morning. I am also thinking of going to a big blu marine Optima in the trunk either as my primary or secondary battery any opinions on this? I'm thinking of going to a CS144, same size as a CS130 but I can get it in 140amp size with the iceberg case cheaper than a OEM alternator so I may do that, the camaro is currently apart for preps for the season so I will be using the CS130 out of it for building the bracket. I guess if anyone can think of a wire I missed or a terminal I should clean let me know so I can work these gremlins out. Thanks in advance.