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I was following a guide to reset my tps/isc because my '88 is idling around 1300. Got to step 4 and didn't notice any "zip" and the multimeter showed a constant 4.6 volts the few times I retried instead of the .9 volts it is supposed to show. Is there anything I can do besides go through looking for exposed wires that may be interfering?

I am working through a poor idle/ shutoff condition on my Conquest. I verified the MAF is working tonight and was going to the next step of resetting the TPS/ISC. A bit of history, this engine was rebuild prior to me owning the car, and I purchased it as "non running" condition. The new engine had never seen combustion until I fixed the one tooth off timing issue. Now it will start, run for a few seconds and die. I can tease it to stay running by playing with the throttle plate, but eventually the issue will catch up to me and the engine will finally stop. Initial suspect was the MAF, but after testing the ambient temp sensor good, and verifying when the MAF is unplugged the engine ran worse and literally flooded the intake with fuel so the ECU is getting a signal, the next stop would be to verify the TPS and ISC motor are working ok. I found the reset instructions for this on the forum but I cannot run the car long enough to get it to "operating temperature". Do I just struggle with the engine until it seems hot enough? Is there a method to use without the engine at temp? Anyone have any other suggestions on the idle issue? Thanks in advance for your assistance.

#1 So got a question reguarding the TPS, seems like it should be pretty simple answer for those who have had these vehicles longer than I have. Vehicle is an 89' Chrysler Conquest- 79k miles. The vehicles has always idled high since I purchased it awhile back. Around 1500 RPM's once up to operating temp . Also noticed the TB base plate gasket was leaking. So decided I would do the TPS/ISC reset after the TB rebuild following the steps laid out here in the "Fuel/ECU" section for my year. After following the steps, my ISC zipped on down no problem, removed the rubber seal to the TPS connector and it read out .672v on my snap on DMM. Figured all right! Heres the problem. Loosened the two screws on the TPS and turned it fully to the clockwise position..... Nothing!!! It doesn't matter if i turn it clockwise or counter clockwise, with the ignition in the on position, not the run position my TPS will always be at .672v, from the B terminal to the GW lead. Does this mean the the TPS is just bad or am I not performing this right. The TPS is OEM with a mitsu logo on top. #2 Secondly, the ISC screw appears to have nothing the screw actually pushes against.... It seems to me like the ISC screw should be pushing on a plate of some sort to be able to adjust it up or down, and makes me wonder if a shop some how forgot to put this piece on when they screwed with the TPS which has paint on the two hold down screws, making me think the TB has had work done to it. As with the problem in Question #1 the ISC screw also, does nothing to adjust the idle as it should, but this problem might be rooted to the TPS not changing values.... Any help would be much appreciated, so I can get this car back to optimal idle, and not have people at a stop light thinking that im about ready to drop the clutch and race! -Dale