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EDIT::: All images are still up, copy and paste into a new browser window. This is a pretty simple upgrade that is easy to overlook, but really pays off in the way the car handles. I have D2 coilovers, front and rear strut braces, and the sways were showing their weakness. In a nushell, sway bars tie the right and left control arms together and resist them moving too independently of each other. The result is the car stays flatter. I picked up a set of MK1 sways from a member here and did the upgrade. Here's some tips. http://waste-nj.com/d2/sways/sway5.jpg As you can see, the MK1 bar is a thicker, heavier bar. They are powdercoted red and include new pivot bushings. These busings must be used because the newer bar is thicker, and the stock size bushings don't fit the fatter bars, which are 25mm and 21mm. http://waste-nj.com/d2/sways/sway2.jpg I don't have access to a lift and don't exactly LIKE working under the car on jackstands. I will if I have to, but in this case ramps are fine. As long as the wheels are level, there is no tension on the sway bar. You don't even have to pull the wheels off, but obviously there are a few ways to do this. This way worked for me and I'm 6'3. FRONT: Once you are under the car, you'll see the front bar is held on by six bolts: Two at the end links, and four holding the two pivot U-brackets on. Take the end link bolts out, then take out the braket bolts. Go slow, don't drop the bar on your head. REAR: The rear bar is held on by four bolts, the two end link bolts and two on each U-bracket. The rear U-brackets are a hinge type, they hook in at the bottom and bolt in at the top. You'll probably have to unbolt the rear section of the exhaust as it partially blocks access to the passenger side U-bracket bolt, at least mine did but it's a 3" MK1 system. Once you get the brackets off, the bar will fall free. Take a break and grab a beer. http://waste-nj.com/d2/sways/sway3.jpg Now if you haven't upgraded the endlink bushings to urethane, might as well do it now. You can grab them at Pep Boys or Autozone, just bring an endlink bolt with you to match size. MK1 also has kits for the Starion. Putting the new bars in is the same process in reverse. Before crawling under the car, I greased the pivot bushings and fit the front U-brackets onto the new bushings. They may need some hammer help to get them all the way on, but take the time to do it now, because if you don't it will be a pain to line up the bolts when you get under there. Don't forget the 2 smaller pieces that sit under the bushings in the brackets. In the front, the brackets are left/right so pay attention to that. I used a jackstand to hold the middle of the bar up while fitting the endlink bolts, then bolted up the pivots. Don't tighten anything down until you get all the bolts on. In the rear, it's a different story. The hinge type U-brackets don't fit well around the slightly fatter rear sway bar bushings. Since you have to hook the hinge on first, then push it into position and thread the bolt in at the top of the bracket, it can get a little frustrating and that's an understatement! (The pivot bushings compress as the bolts are tightened.) To top it off, the stock #7 bolts are very short. What I did is put the brackets in a vice with the bolt end in the vice, and slighty bent them a little so the bolt tab would be closer to the frame, to take up some of the gap. I also scrounged up a couple of other #7 bolts which were longer, this made it a little easier but if you're a trooper you can get the stock bolts back in. Grab another beer. http://waste-nj.com/d2/sways/sway4.jpg Button it all up and check to make sure you tightened all the bolts down. Take a drive and slide the car a little, you'll see there's much less drama, meaning it feels like you have more control due to the reduction in body roll. The car is more controllable when sliding and flatter when cornering, and feels tighter and more solid. The point at which rear traction is broken and regained is smoother. A great combination with any lowered suspension and if you drive your car near the limit, you'll feel the difference. Mookeeh MK1 Starion Parts Factory Mookeeh MK1 Ebay

Mornin folx. Anyone got set of bushes available? Preferable a complete kit... Propose101 used to carry those, but out of stock for the last 5 months... I put the car back together using stock ruber crackers, now I cant get any sleep at night... So, let me know!! The picture added is from starionpartsfactory.com

Today was an awesome day for the quest. I finally got all my poly suspension bushings in as well as Cosmo sleeve overs. This thing has never handled better. I have a few questions though. I had my car on the aligent rack and here were the first specs before adjustment on the rear: Camber: L -1.2 R -1.7 (I don't have camber plates so this is fixed) Toe: L .10 R .32 After on rear Camber: same Toe: L .08 R .08 Now they are even but on the edge of going red on the machine. The right side I can't get to go lower than that. It aligns it to 0.0 according to the machine. What kinds of toe are most of you guys running and what do you think is the best to do? My front doesn't have camber plates but caster and toe are in spec so it doesn't bug me.

I am parting out 3 starquests 2 are 84's and 1 86 all do not have engines but i have alot of extra engine parts and such but all of them have transmissions plus i have a ton of extra parts in my garage. The red 84 is a 5 speed and has full black leather interior which for the most part is in great shape other then the front seats and this is a ls model i believe it had a lsd and the velnas system which is still all there. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/710_zps47daf647.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/714_zps69921a04.jpg i have all 4 mudflaps in great shape and have all 4 stock rims that are in great shape http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/716_zps05fb8261.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/717_zps83cdd144.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/741_zpse2c09240.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/745_zps6beb537c.jpg it also has a windshield that only has 1 chip in the lower right corner (Pictured Below) http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/748_zpsa4bc8541.jpg The Grey 84 is a automatic(have everything to make it a 5 speed) and has full red leather interior with the digital guage cluster. The car itself is in great shape inside and out and would hate to crush it but i need these cars gone. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/711_zps52ada565.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/750_zps6e046723.jpg has perfect wiper cowling no cracks or nics http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/751_zps2f578cda.jpg has perfect condition tail lights with a turbo hatch which also is in perfect condition http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/754_zps2fdb1509.jpg digital cluster works and is in perfect condition http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/761_zps5f12f119.jpg The Champagne 86 is a 5 speed and has full perfect condition black leather interior. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/710_zps47daf647.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/724_zpsf7feea57.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/728_zpse0bd47d6.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/729_zps6ce1174d.jpg dash is back seat and is in perfect condition http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e91/toyotagt1/730_zps9b19889c.jpg All pics can be seen here http://s37.photobuck...otagt1/library/ what ever you need just message me on here or call or text me at 541-639-1395 my name is max i need everything gone so i am selling everything on the cheap or trade i am looking for a rear hatch wing 83 hood etc just let me know what you have

Blew a strut, so looking to buy some new or used coilovers to replace mine. Going on an 87 starion. Let me know what you got.

hey guys im looking for some parts for my starquest 1. turbo to intercooler hard pipe 2. g54b upgraded camshaft that works with a stock non jet valve head 3. rear camber plates 4. front and rear sway bars 5. front and rear strut tower bars

well i am doing a complete 240sx rack n pinion swap i just want to make sure im getting everything i will need 1. s13 power steering rack 2. s13 cross member 3. s14 knuckles 4. s14 5 lug hubs 5. s14 lower control arms 6. z32 4 piston brakes 7. z32 rotors im pretty sure this is all i will need but i just want to make sure thanks

Hey Im looking to get ahold of a K frame that will work for my 88 starion. The idiot who owned this car before me did some nasty welding on after he managed to twist it. if anyone is parting one out let me know a price! im located in modesto, california. thanks.

I AM SEEKING HELP ON UPGRADING THE SUSPENSION ON MY NEW 1989 CONQUEST TSI. THIS IS MY SECOND TIME AROUND WITH THIS CAR. I HAD A 1988 MITSUBISHI STARION WITH A MODIFIED SUSPENSION.