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Provided by: MaxZillion This is something I've only encountered during autocrossing; as my car got faster I soon ran into problems with the power steering not keeping up with my demands. For instance, driving the car through a slalom I would find occasions where the car would loose the power steering when I was trying to turn the wheel as fast as possible. The faster the engine spun, the worse it got. This is because of Mitsubishi's method of giving the Starion speed sensitive steering. The Starion employs a flow-sensitive valve inside the pump that reduces power steering pressure as flow increases, giving the effect of stiffer steering for high speed operation. Unfortunately, when you're spinning 6000 rpm in a slalom, it has the nasty effect of making your steering feel like it is locking up and properly screws up your times. Unfortunately I didn't take any photos of what I did, but I found that googling for "mitsubishi power steering pump modification" came up with several results showing the same method. Here's one result: http://www.dsmtuners...ering-pump.html Following that guide, I took the valve assembly out of the pump (it's the plug that your high pressure hose attaches to) and pressed it apart using a punch and socket as detailed in the dsmtuners post. I my case I shimmed the valve using a spacer I machined from aluminum (edit: but washers can be used as detailed in the DSMtuners post. I believe whatever is used must have a hole in the center for oil to flow through, but I can't recall for sure). If memory serves I shot for the middle of the road at 3mm. The end result... no perceptible change at all with the exception that I had power steering whenever I wanted it! Driving on the street or highway had no change in steering effort or feel, but on the autocross course I've never encountered a power steering problem since. Based on my experience, I'm actually reasonably sure that Mitsubishi's variable steering method is more for track racing where you can top out the engine at higher than freeway speeds. I haven't taken my car to a road course since the modification, but I'm reasonably sure that the steering will still be just as controllable as it was before the modification. That said, I don't recommend doing this modification unless you've encountered the problem. It wasn't until I installed coil overs on my car that the chassis could react fast enough to require faster steering inputs.

Links provided by : Ashybone Here are more examples: http://www.starquest...k http://www.starquest...k http://www.starquest...k This is the method I was thinking of.... http://www.starquest...240 +rack +swap Not what I'm looking for but good info... http://www.starquest...240 +rack +swap THIS IS IT!!!!!!!!!!!!! THIS IS THE ONE I WAS TALKING ABOUT AND LOOKING FOR FOR THE PAST 2 DAYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.starquest...ap#entry1169923 Ok, I'm good now lol.

This is something I've only encountered during autocrossing; as my car got faster I soon ran into problems with the power steering not keeping up with my demands. For instance, driving the car through a slalom I would find occasions where the car would loose the power steering when I was trying to turn the wheel as fast as possible. The faster the engine spun, the worse it got. This is because of Mitsubishi's method of giving the Starion speed sensitive steering. The Starion employs a flow-sensitive valve inside the pump that reduces power steering pressure as flow increases, giving the effect of stiffer steering for high speed operation. Unfortunately, when you're spinning 6000 rpm in a slalom, it has the nasty effect of making your steering feel like it is locking up and properly screws up your times. Unfortunately I didn't take any photos of what I did, but I found that googling for "mitsubishi power steering pump modification" came up with several results showing the same method. Here's one result: http://www.dsmtuners...ering-pump.html Following that guide, I took the valve assembly out of the pump (it's the plug that your high pressure hose attaches to) and pressed it apart using a punch and socket as detailed in the dsmtuners post. I my case I shimmed the valve using a spacer I machined from aluminum (edit: but washers can be used as detailed in the DSMtuners post. I believe whatever is used must have a hole in the center for oil to flow through, but I can't recall for sure). If memory serves I shot for the middle of the road at 3mm. The end result... no perceptible change at all with the exception that I had power steering whenever I wanted it! Driving on the street or highway had no change in steering effort or feel, but on the autocross course I've never encountered a power steering problem since. Based on my experience, I'm actually reasonably sure that Mitsubishi's variable steering method is more for track racing where you can top out the engine at higher than freeway speeds. I haven't taken my car to a road course since the modification, but I'm reasonably sure that the steering will still be just as controllable as it was before the modification. That said, I don't recommend doing this modification unless you've encountered the problem. It wasn't until I installed coil overs on my car that the chassis could react fast enough to require faster steering inputs.

i am looking for a power steering pump. let me know what you have.

i am liooking for a rebuildable or functional power steering pump please. i do have an 89 quest if that matters. Thanks,

Well, I don't expect to sell many of these but if you're like me when you go to rebuild or reseal the power steering box you want to replace EVERYTHING and maybe like me you remove the old needle bearing (below) BEFORE you bother to check and see if its even available. http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/steeringboxbearing.jpg Well, it doesn't even have a PART NUMBER, at least not in the parts manuals I have, let alone OEM availability. Further, its a really odd size, especially for a Japanese car manufacturer. Let's just say its far from metric and of course after destroying the original getting it out it took some trial and error getting the measurements. After buying a few the wrong size I finally tracked down the correct part only to find the minimum order was 10. Lol, you only need one per box. I used one and I'm keeping another for my other car so I have 8 available. $15 shipped in the continental US. http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/needlebearing.jpg

so im doing a s13 rack n pinion swap using a s13 cross member just re drilled the mounting holes to fit a starion, welding on the starion motor mounts to it and using either s13/ s14 lca's that i will box in and re drill holes for the tension arms and sway bar. so now before i start the full swap i have a couple of question for people who have or now how to do the swap which are how do you connect the s13 rack to the starquest steering column i was just thinking of welding the end piece of a s13 column to the starquest one but idk if it will be the right length and the right angle can be made, what do you guys do for the power steering lines do they have to be ss lines or dose just normal rubber p/s line work and what ball joint fits the starquest knuckle a s13 or s14 or do you just have to re drill the hole. any help will be greatly appreciated thanks

Hey guys, I just had a quick question for some of you guys who know more about the power steering systems in general than I do. Basically I am at the point where I am rebuilding and replacing the pieces for the power steering system and am curious if anyone has opinions about whether its worth replacing the high pressure line for the p/s system with AN fittings and stainless lines V.S. just the oem one. About the only benefit I could see coming from it is maybe a more consistant pressure from the pump to the box and therefore giving a better feel? As I type that it seems like quite a stretch lol. idk, let me know your opinion, and thanks. Allen