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oil cooler valve in the oil filter housing stock opens at 215f DEG or 100c this low temp opens at 75c or 168 f Part Number: 15999 AM001 found on mitsubishi EVO 8, 9, X The HKS Low Temp Oil cooler thermostat works with the factory Mitsubishi EVO 8, 9 and X.The 75 Degree Celsius Thermostat will open several degrees sooner compared to the OEM unit, which will help reduce oil temperatures and help pro-long the l ife of the oil, and slow down thermal breakdown. http://www.part-box.com/images/15999-AM001.jpg http://www.maperformance.com/images/magictoolbox_cache/8a5b5c23bc6b1e9cbba52829116c6900/2/0/20010/thumb600x308/570801723/S_3594.jpg

The starion sat all summer, as I was riding the CBR around the whole time. Now that its getting cool, I figured I would change the oil before driving the starion around. Pulled the plug and coolant rushed out. Question is, where do I start looking for the issue? Head gasket? Warped head/block? Turbo? What should I check first?

so i have an 88 starion. just built the motor. new gaskets, timing chain, and water pump. got her running and bam check the oil and there is water everywhere. checked compression and 90 across the board. checked all my water lines and oil lines and they are all in the right spot. getting verey confused....HELPPPP MEEEEEE PLEASEEEE

Over the weekend I installed my new M28 head and new head gasket, while I was in there I cleaned everything and reinstalled all new gaskets from the HG, up, resurfaced all of the manifolds and properly set my cam timing and she's at 10 degrees BTDC and she started right up and idled relatively smooth (TPS still needs readjusted, I just ran out of time) I was amazed I got the timing procedure right the first time (thanks to SQC's and PQ's threads) I noticed before everything went south (Belt snapped and she overheated, cracking the head too) that I had low oil pressure, upon initial start-ups it was about 3/4 on the factory gauge, and once warm, during idle, it's reads almost at the bottom of the gauge. My 12A fried a while back and I found a sliver of the rear oil seal in the pan, with only a few tiny metal shavings from the previous cam/head situation. My question is, what should I look into as far as isolating a low oil pressure scenario? Could it be a clogged pressure regulator (is that the one on the filter housing?) or could it be something internally wrong with the oil pump? I really wasn't looking forward to removing the timing cover at this point (took 3 days to tear down and re-install the head and everything is all back together) but I need to figure out why the gauge is reading low.... lifters still ticking too (after running for about 10 minutes) which leads me to believe that I'm not getting the pressure needed on the top end. New timing components were installed about 20k ago, but could this be attributed to the tensioner. Specs, mostly stock, BSEK, JVEK.... 10W30 oil, STP filter (I was told to stay away from Fram and the DriveWorks filters looked generic and cheap so I didn't want to risk it ) I've searched the forums but wasn't successful at finding a solution for this particular issue. Any help is appreciated! Thanks guys. -N8

Anybody interested in a kit for braided oil cooler lines? Put together a set at a hardware surplus shop the other day and they look pretty good Not sure on the availability of the parts, but if anybody wants one made i can put it together and ship for $125 <- parts are about 115 All high performance earls plumbing parts, and 3/8 (6an?) braided hose Includes fitting for 6mm (previously banjo fittings) in/out on the oil filter housing as well as the oil cooler - straight hose connectors for the filter housing side, and 90 degree ones for the cooler side (to clear hood) Can put together for any oil lines, also made one for remotely installing my electric oil pressure sending unit Hit me up if there's any interest, have no problem putting kits together and shipping at cost Thanks Aaron will post a picture after install is done Gaskets! one set of Randy's oil cooler banjo fitting gaskets will be needed to install correctly, my oem gaskets are long gone just one set, since its not a banjo fitting, there is no need to have one on each side

im looking for a good condition oil pump for the g54b turbo iv been looking everywhere around where i live in Oregon and cant find the turbo oil pump all i can find is the na oil pump which is not the same i found out so let me know what you guys have thanks

i took my g54b to get machined for the rebuild im doing and when i got it back there was 2 allen head plugs that came off the block somewhere i found out the bigger one goes on the back of the engine but when i try and get it tight i cant get to flush with the block will that be a problem and for the smaller one i cant find where it goes i have been looking everywhere in the forums and online and i have checked every square inch of the block and no luck can anyone tell me where the small plug goes its driving me crazy i would really appreciate it thanks

I need help from you all confirming if this would be a correct fit for the StarQuest. Royal Purple's website, unfortunately, does not list any sizes for the StarQuest. So I looked up all cars that uses the 4G54 engine, and found a oil filter size for the Mazda B2600. (Oil filter code: 10-2808, for those who are curious.) Would this oil filter work for the StarQuests?

What do you use to recharge the washable air filter on your car ? Some people say WD-40 others say engine oil or transmission fluid While still others ask the question why mess with a resuable filter just use a paper filter? And some will question why can't you afford the correct oil ? So what do you use or don't use is the question here.