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Made up a few intake plates for a roll your own MPI or ITB system. $105 each which includes USPS priority mail shipping, there are seven available. These are 6061 aluminum, 3.8" thick and fit perfectly on an M7 or M8 head, fits just fine on all others. I deliberately did not cut any excess material which serves three purposes: 1) The excessively large water jacket on the back port on the aussie (magna) head is completely covered. 2) The useless to us fuel pump port is completely covered. NO MORE LEAKS! 3) The distributor hole is covered. If you have enough moxie to roll your own intake you likely don't intend to use a distributor, but if you do you can just cut that end off beyond the water jacket. If you want to run a Mighty Max optical distributor (for crank and cam signals) you can drill an appropriate hole and you *shouldn't* need a spacer. I say shouldn't because I have not tested it. I run a Mighty Max dizzy on my MPI car and its using a 1/4" spacer, I don't believe another 0.125" is going to throw it out of the range of adjustment it already has. Obviously you'll need to fab your own gasket using a roll of gasket material, any auto parts store carries it. So what do I mean by "fits just fine on all others"? Well, there are slight variances in the actual intake ports for each runner on the many heads designed for the G54b, both in overall diameter and port placement. I'm being real picky and giving complete disclosure, we've put this intake plate on the M7, AMC Marnal, factory JV and D50 heads and while it is perfect on the M7/8 because that is what it was designed on you can feel some slight differences on the other heads with your finger between the plate and the bore. Again, if you have the moxie to fab an intake then you can certainly compensate, its just a few thousands of an inch. http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/intakeplate003.jpg http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/intakeplate004.jpg AMC MARNAL HEAD http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/intakeplate005.jpg AMC MARNAL LEFT SIDE http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/intakeplate006.jpg AMC MARNAL RIGHT SIDE http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/intakeplate002.jpg M7/8 So, anyone want one? Again, these are a finished product suitable for your next extravagant G54b build, like mine! I'm going 48 MM ITB. If demand is high we can make more.

When I picked the car up in Pomona it was completely stock with the exception of a rebuilt head. This being my first car I was kinda leery at the age but mainly fueled by the thoughts of a turboed rwd import I dismissed all that lol. Good thing I did to, since it's arrival I've pretty much fell in love with the car. .they are awesome to say the least. My brother and this forum have pretty much guided me through everything. There's is still much more I plan on doing and things I dream of doing and with time I believe I'll accomplish them. Anyway. . Enjoy, How she was in the beginning: http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab308/LAJits-media/The%2086/IMG_20101108_075736.jpg To http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab308/LAJits-media/The%2086/DSC00416edit.jpg Then to http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab308/LAJits-media/The%2086/20131202_150547_Richtone28HDR29_zpspnluiouh.jpg From this bay... http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab308/LAJits-media/The%2086/16G.jpg to this.. http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab308/LAJits-media/The%2086/2014-01-16%2019.52.18_zpsekmterzc.png Statistics list: 1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R 92XXX miles Magna intake 75lb injectors C.o.p. ignition Cx intercooler Cx 3 row radiator 2.5" turbo-back & a Magnaflow high flow cat, ended with a dual out Borla tip Eibach sport springs "Evo III" 16G manually set to 14psi 3M Limo tint in the rear and 3M light on the front two ---------------------- Best 1/4 run: 16. spinning hard off the line and not running top notch

I have a '88 White Starion with black '83 hood, and a pile of performance parts. Currently the engine is out and it needs a new bottom end, this car was my life for many years but things change and it has been going on five years without working on it so it’s time for it to go. The engine was removed due to a rod bearing but ran great once upon a time. I am not interested in parting it out so the sale is all or nothing. Below is a list of parts that are included. (I am sure I will forget some) Odometer says 33k and does work but I can't guarantee it is accurate Magna Intake with 4.6l throttle body. 750 cc Injectors. SDS Engine / Fuel management system with distributor less Coil packs (Factory ECU and harness has been removed) Custom exhaust header with T4 flange (Never been installed) T4 Turbo (Rebuilt - never been installed) Wideband O2 Sensor / Gauge Electronic Boost Controller Non-Jet valve head - Ported / polished with HD valve springs and oversized SS valves Performance CAM shaft (don't remember details) Oversized intercooler Solid intercooler pipes Blow off valve Black ’83 hood with scoop , and ’88 hood painted same as car 3” Engine back exhaust Factory exhaust manifold with 16g turbo (12a ported to 16g) Manual transmission Lightened ’86 Flywheel Stock Crankshaft De-stroked Crankshaft (g52b) The body is still in good shape, but could use a new paint job. It has been sitting in my garage for 5 years. The electrical system not related to the engine still works well including all interior components. The A/C was removed prior to my owner ship of it. Also included is the I have two engine blocks (one is no good), I am attaching some photos to the post of the outside and a few of the parts, if anyone wants additional photos or has specific questions send me an email : Interior is cloth, dark in color and in great shape, no sunroof, Vehicle located in Rochester Hills, Michigan Christopher_Stanek@yahoo.com <-- preferred method of contact. Don’t send a PM because I may not get it More pictures available

I have 8 Precision (PTE) low imp injectors for sale. Will separate in to packs of 4. 4 - $150 8 - $300 shipped. buyer pays fees. phil http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformance/4sale/injectors_zpsvtlquqcm.jpg

im looking for a MPI kit either just the intake and injectors or the whole 9 yards. thanks

Hello everyone, need some help with mpi. I have the FIP complete system w/msd box and ignition adapter for msd box, I have spark from coil, but while cranking and checking for spark from plug wire, there is only one spark at beginning of cranking then nothing. I have replaced the ignition module in distributor and still same out come. Any ideas or input would be great. Could it be ignition switch? It worked fine before car was parked couple years ago when I started install.

So I've decided after letting it sit nearly a year to just sell off all my parts and build. Its pretty extensive. I have replaced my phone and lost my pics but I will be heading to my parents farm this afternoon to take pics I need to for the actual selling of parts. Most are listed in my sig and extra parts I have are hard pipe kit from TEP, trilogy injectors and tbi system, a couple ecu bodies and FORD EDIS system. I have all the parts you can think of. My engine has about 30k miles and my mpi system has not actually been used so to speak. I will sell the whole car for 4k or parts are OBO. Prices will be listed on non negotiable parts as I take the pics later. The TEP exhaust mani and turbonetics turbo are $1000 non neg. Seeing as how they were $1600 new and I haven't driven the car. I also have stock 12a turbo amd old mani and a super 16g tuebo I believe is crap but housings are good. Email me for faster reply slysthename1986@gmail.com or text at 252 679 5064. Requests for individual pics can be aquired faster this way. UPDATE. Mpi manifold, injectors, sensors, throttle body, couplers/clamps, charge tubes, intercooler and megasquirt are sold. Lots left so text me to get yours ;-)

Wondering if someone has a magna intake laying around or an mpi setup that they're willing to sell, I want to start collecting parts for the swap.

For sale: Magna MPI manifold w/Delphi 75lb injectors, throttle body, tps,water temp, fpr, etc. FIP ecu and harness. Recently re wired labeled and bench tested by Scott - sold Maft pro with 3"gm maf, filter and harness - sold 87 transmission in great condition no grinds or wines. - sold Crankshaft in great condition no grooves at all. Not sure how many miles are on it I bought it second hand $60 shipped fidanza lightweight flywheel with a brand new never used friction plate. And a clutch with pressure plate (not sure what brand) Clutch was used for like 60 miles at most. Asking $300 shipped for everything or flywheel for $250 http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/wakeman171/photo3_zpsc5d5effc.jpg http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/wakeman171/photo4_zpsbe4eeca0.jpg http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/wakeman171/photo_zps34586e13.jpg http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/wakeman171/photo5_zps17d467e2.jpg http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/wakeman171/photo4_zpsb3c65c3b.jpg http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/wakeman171/photo1_zpsde633342.jpg http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/wakeman171/photo3_zps9b5d19ff.jpg http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/wakeman171/photo2_zpsbd057f4d.jpg http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/wakeman171/photo2_zps97484946.jpg

***SOLD*** FOR SALE: Magna MPI Intake Manifold | $550 Shipped Included: Trilogy Turbos fuel rail (Silver) & 2004 V6 Mustang throttle body I was informed by the previous owner that this manifold was modified by Chad. It has never once been used. I am selling everything as-is, and will not be removing any included items to lower the price. I am selling it for what I paid for it, so the price is firm. http://i1144.photobucket.com/albums/o498/TrustConquest/8f164ac2-5f7a-4284-9431-18622cecc21e_zps510da406.jpg?t=1398134779

THIS IS NOT MY CAR I'm listing this car for sale for Mt.Airy Motors Total Performance. www.totalperf.com 85 quest freshly built MPI, Haltech EMS, large turbo, FMIC 3" exhaust, boost controlerwith 110k miles on odometer for $8300 Blue with silver strip black custom interior 5spd a/c turbo timer boost controler MPI etc. Nothing about this car is stock I don't know much about the car except from the pics but if somone is interested I can go take a look as I'm about 30 mins away. To find out more about the car contect Fred at mtam@fed.net The back story, the car was brought to the shop to have work done and as problems were found they were addressed. Unfortunetly the owner could not pay the bill so a mechanics lien was filed for and granted. The shop now owns the car with title in hand. They are just trying to get the money back that they have invested in parts and labor. I'm told the previous owner had spend nearly $14k on the car before it arived at the shop. Pics attached below. More photos in my gallery 85 quest. Any quetions please ask.

Looking for a complete or "near" complete MPI setup for my 87 starion. 14g with 89 ecu and 20 psi just isnt cuttin it anymore. Let me know what you got.

Question: does the primary injector fire from IDLE to MAX RPM? if YES Then Disclaimer: this is just a question and some remarks are just for example dont shoot me for examples.... if yes then whay cant we splice in an injector clip from the primary get 2 larger injectors like 1000cc or bigger but same size. use only the primary injector and the spliced clip from the primary injector. secondary injector clip is not used. well more on that later. TUNING: you can tune with the MAFT or any other device like it or MegaSquirt now dont verbally beat me up this is just food for thought. with megasquirt or MS you can batch fire the injectors the injectors are ran off of 2 banks also. so why not run the injectors off of one primary injector harness from the quest and tune with a MAFT or similar tuning unit. i cant see how this would not work and for the MAFT sake make it easier to tune. dont have to worry about the transition of the secondary injector and boost pressure bumping the fuel pressure up. i think it would be a better running car and tuning would slightly be easier. possibly more consistant. again only a thought,

hello. well im not too new to starions. but a newbie to the whole forums and such. own 3 star/quests right now. i am in the mits of building my 88 starion with a gt 60trim turbo 1000cc injectors and megasquirt. my problom is in weather or not to run her tbi untill i find/can afford a mpi.... im running stock internals with 30xxx miles on them. I only am using this big of a turbo cause i got a ballbearing garret turbo, megasquirt(fuel injection pro) and injectors for $200... i only wanna maybe 15 to 20psi pf boost till i finish my other motor. Is it safe to say i hurt her trying this with tbi or could and has it been done safely? Im a new dad working two jobs to get things right. so im not balling on no budget. any and all advise is nice. please and thank you.

looking for a modified Magna and or other type of MPI intake. let me know what you have. Thanks,

1987 Conquest for sale. Baton Rouge, Louisiana Engine is a fresh rebuild. new non jet valve head w/ oversized valves, 8:1 comp pistons, rod bearings, water pump, timing chain-guides and gears, rebuilt alternator, new clutch, master and slave cylinder, new injectors, radiator, belts and hoses, fuel pump, filters and injectors new windshield (I'm a certified tech. every gap was measured and every bolt torqued to spec. It was done right) Car was purchased non running, did the rebuild and it runs but has some electrical problem that I never could find. The car will start and run perfectly then starts running bad - no power. I found if you unplug the mass air it will drive fine but will not idle, and plugged in it will idle but miss and buck if you try to drive. I got tired of trying to figure it out and got a MPI kit for it. (I never installed the kit) Then... the wife got pregnant. So its been on the back burner as well as my other Quest. I will sell the MPI kit as well. If anyone would like some more photos or info email me at (bmw86tsi AT gmail DOT com) I would like to get $1500 for the car, and would like $1400 for the MPI kit OBO Thanks

DiSCLAIMER: I may rant. OK, so a few years ago I fell in love with the SQ and have been dreaming of the day to get one right. Well that day is near and there are many of you out there feeding the noobs bullstinky - time to air that out. I've fully built my car from the oil pan to the valve cover and here's how to save money, time and stress. Don't worry about the SPARK (distributor), putting EDIS, MSD is all good and dandy but you are wasting money and time. Nology wires are all you need if you decide to upgrade, everyone else is just trying to sell you s***. Most of the guys on here that have these cars are a little weird in a sense. They see the world there way so you should keep this in mind and remember that its YOUR CAR. Get the SHORT SHIFTER, it's 150 from Mookeeh and worth every penny. It makes that truck motor under the hood FEEL like a sports car. It will reduce your 6 inch throw to 2 maybe 3 with a sexy firm, smooth feel (thank me later). Dont be scared to floss the polish on it as well, most guys are too cheap to buy it so if you got it . . . let it do what it do. ENGINE overhaul: PAIN IN THE tail <-- avoid at all cost. It's better and cheaper to buy a refurb from Jasper engines. Not only will it be NEW - it comes with a beutiful warranty. If you are going MPI like I have, swap out the intakes and drop it off for a new one if you blow. Mechanics hate working on our cars because they are old, rare motors and requires them to think - they hate thinking. If you have the time to do ALL the work go for it but for everyone else with ambition, buy it and keep it moving. HEAD: The Schneider cams and all that is WAYYYYYY over rated. Same with the Marnel and AUSSIE options. Keep a fresh pair of lifters, STAY HYDRAULIC and throw in a jet valve elimination kit for breathing - that's it. The port and polish, TEP manifold and all that other non-sense is useless. Been there and done that. MPI: Damn near a waste of time UNLESS you intend to put a bigger turbo on it. Race manifolds will cost $500+ (get over it) - the magna is cool but is stock - remember that. When you go MPI you must buy a standalone - no way around it. Expect to spend $1,000 on the unit. STANDALONE: I went with MegaSquirt and freakin hate it. The customer service sucks, no one knows how to tune it (because they didn't design it to fit on cars) and they charge your for EVERY LITTLE THING. Here's an example: I purchased the MSII for $550. Then I had to buy the harness, then the stimulator (to test the actual MegaSquirt), then the power charger for the stimulator, then the usb cord for the MS2 unit, then the adapter for the cord that plugs into the unit, then I had to go download a specific program/ driver for the CORD (yes, a driver for the fuckin cord) and then . . . there's more :-) Then download Tuner Studio which cost $90 more dollars and that's not all folks but I'll pause for now. I EASILY have $1,100 in the MS2 which isn't bad in comparison to a $2,000 but the true difference is most Tuners support the AEM's and etc whereas the MS2 is not. Forget about tech support from DIY, all the guys there are engineers and can barely speak English (literally). They don't understand the impact of a friendly user interface nor wish to endorse it because they rather sell you the PNP (plug n play) and that's a whole nother story. WIRING: BE TOTALLYjz about the technique used to wire your or it will catch on fire. Old wires turn into this funky dust inside the silicone and can burn up under the right conditions. Don't think it won't happen to you? It will. My experience has been let the mechanic build the car and the technician wire it. Nothing is worst then seeing your investment go up in flames. Absolutely insist on soldering where applicable and crimps with heat shrink everywhere else. STAY AWAY FROM ELECTRICAL TAPE!!!!! GAUGES: oil, boost, temp <-- essentials a/r & rpm is a plus. The essentials are there so if s*** gets real on the road, you might be able to save your motor. The stock gauges are horrible and should never be trusted. Need an example? The STOCK boost gauge is electronic - damn thing flies around everywhere versus a after market one that is analog. Oil and temp are the same. Knowing what's going on with the motor is mandatory - if you feel it isn't -go drive with a blind fold on. FUEL: Leave the fuel pump alone unless its broken. It has all the pressure you need. TRANSMISSION: Will handle 500hp, 450 trq MOTOR: Will handle 480trq stk (you need the above to get here) NITROUS: Best s*** in the world, 150 hit all day AIR DAMN: Them s**** break ALL THE TIME, look for a poly urthane one that BENDS. Avoid all fiberglass versions. LOUVERS: They are lame and if I see you with them on your car, I'm laughing AT YOU. REAR SPOILER: Read "louvers" TBI: Truth be told its not that bad. If you want to MPI your s*** the cheap way: here's how to do it. Tap & add 2 additional injectors after getting your hands on a 86 ecu. Why the 86 and not the 89? Here's why: The 89 has a primary and secondary injector. The primary sprays to about 2k rpm then the secondary kicks in. The 86 sprays both in an alternating sequence. When you add the injectors, put on the clips and run them parallel from the stock ones. IE. Injec 1 goes to clip A, injec 2 goes to clip B. Make sure you have the same injectors and not using stock ones. Injector 1, Clip A should be on cylinder 1 & 4/ Injec 2, Clip B on 2 & 4 - that's it. Not really rocket science when you REALLY think about it but you leave it up to these low life scum bags on here and they'll sell you everything under the Sun but the truth. EXHAUST: It's only a pipe, stay away from name brands because they wont make you faster. You'll just be that idiot that paid $500 for a pipe. TUNE: As a mention, the ONLY time you should go MPI is when you anticipate a tune. You can TUNE the TBI however you must do it manually, this means taking OFF the vacuum advance and dialing back the distributor by hand. Swapping out the MAFS for a 4g63 one is a start and will help it breathe. Well I'm done for now . . . if you guys have anything to say in contrary to the above statement - race me first. #**********

So here's what we have. . . . 89, 5 speed red Chrysler Conquest Megasquirt 2, precision MPI Nitrous kit (wet), oil pump engine overhaul kit aftermarket inercooler fuel pressure regulator wiesco pistons & etc. Our movie is a indie film regarding street racing and is centered around the Conquest. Seeking a technical consultant for our sponsored shop as a build support. The shop has many reservation about the engines ability to create 555+hp (they typically just deal with 2JZ's), I assured them that the G54B is more then capable of power. Don't make me look bad. If you CURRENTLY OWN a 89 StarQuest with a MPI CONVERSION running a DIY MegaSquirt 2.0, I would like to speak with you! Nitrous guys are a plus, place STARQUEST in the subject of the email and include this link. It helps us remember as you can imagine the inbox gets crowded. Movie@AtlantaLegend.com

hey guys just looking for some things...added a few things: could use some odds and ends to finish up my 88. -t3 manifold, -walboro/bosch fuel pump, -88/89 seats (pref black leather), -83 hood, -valve cover (mitsu script pref.), -oil pan, -coilovers, -shp or wider wheels for the rear, -3 inch 4 bolt downpipe, -newish short shifter, -stage4 6puck clutch, -flywheel (new stock or newish fidanza), -roll cage (not a full), -dual gauge pod for pillar as well. let me know! jcolvin25@gmail.com 540-490-0574

-looking for mpi setups or manifolds, either can work, let me know what you have, custom, magna, or anything. -very interested in hx35 but let me know what turbo set ups your selling. -also looking to go standalone. . megasquirt, aem ems, haltec, etc. just let me know what you have. text jake, 540-490-0574. you can message on here but dont get on much, email is jcolvin25@gmail.com thanks guys!

i believe my FIP computer is shot. needs some trouble shooting. i just dont have the time for it. im located in north jersey. anyone know of a reliable shop thats familiar with starions and conquests?

I have seen a lot of talk about switching to "MPI" which I am assuming is "Multi Port Injection. What is the benefit? What types are best to use? And where is the best place to obtain one?

I've decided to part out my project car, the original whole car post is here. I do not have time to part it out completely, I'm just going to remove the easy stuff. That being said, if you are interested in the rolling chassis, see the original post and just subtract what is posted here and that's what you get unless you want to bargain for anything in this list. All prices are negotiable: All parts were purchased new, installed, but never used unless otherwise noted $500 - Magna intake modified by Chad, installed but never used. (SOLD) $700 - Haltech Sprint 500 with long harness $200 - Modified Crank pulley, magnetic sensor with custom sensor bracket $900 - Turbonetics 60-1 series Ceramic ball baring T3/T4 Turbo $250 - T3 Exhaust Manifold $250 - Turbonetics EVO Wastegate $350 - 4 Injectors 850cc with leads and clips $120 - Haltech dual ignition module $80 - 2 dual output coils $180 - Fuel pressure regulator (click here) $100 - Alternator (i think it is a remanufactured, like new though) $50 - Starter (remanufactured, like new though) $6000 - Rolling Chassis with rebuilt engine with Wiseco 8-1 forged pistons, ARP bolts, Clevite bearings. Top end is stock rebuild with new lifters, bearings, and gasket set. New oil pump, removed balance shafts, all new timing, Centerforce dual friction clutch. The body was done by a professional, no Bondo on this car, all bad metal was cut out and new metal welded in. Two sections of the subframe where cut out and new metal welded in. I will be as upfront as possible to avoid not meeting expectations during final sale. The only bad things I can say about the body and chassis... Every thing that could come off was taken off, sandblasted, but not powder coated, I painted all sandblasted parts myself with engine paint. I can't say for sure that all suspension and steering components that were reused were reconditioned perfect, like the springs I just sandblasted and repainted with the assumption that I would come back later and replace with new. The underbody was not completely stripped and recoated, only the sections that got new metal were stripped and recoated with under chassis coating. Except for the engine bay, everything was stripped with baking soda blaster as far down as he could get. The interior is partly put together, I can take more pictures, but you will get it as is. The seats are not in good condition, but otherwise the interior is in fair condition. All parts listed in the original post (link above) that are not explicitly listed above are assumed to come with the car. Once I can get over to storage and start pulling off the parts I can provide detailed pics of each part. Until then here are the pics i have on hand... http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0192.jpg?w=1000&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0550.jpg?w=700&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/dsc00406.jpg?w=1000&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/dsc00409.jpg?w=1000&h= http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0542.jpg?w=700&h=

Im looking for a MPI Intake setup. either sheet metal intake or Magna intake. let me know what you guys got i need somthing quick cuz my build cannot contiune without an intake

SOLDhttp://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs151.ash2/40867_442322127772_603717772_5362125_1058872_n.jpgold pic selling separately - Trilogy Fuel (Red) fuel rail $50. SOLDhttp://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/solidboosttsi/rail.jpg Buy it all for $620 shipped to the lower 48 states. Thanks for looking! Chips.