Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'hvac'.
-
posting here since it doesn’t look like I have the ability to post in the main form area. But I wanted to put this together in hope that they could help someone if they do searching. I recently bought a 1988 2 owner Conquest with 36k miles. All stock/no mods/seemingly almost all original parts. Great shape. But AC was nonfunctional. I immediately noticed that my compressor was not turning on regardless of any setting. I started by finding the dual pressure switch for the HVAC system. that is the switch with two prongs that is located just to the right of the accumulator dryer behind the passenger side headlight area as you are standing on front of the car facing the engine. This switch sits below another switch that has wires built-in. After unplugging the dual pressure switch,I used a jumper wire on the wiring harness to bypass that switch as a test. Lo and behold, the compressor turned on with the jumper wire in place. GetLanguage Courses after much research, I ordered the following replacement switch: Santech MT0227. in order to replace that switch, the system must first be evacuated of any refrigerant that is within the system. please ensure this is done in the proper manner. some local mechanics will actually evacuate your system for you for free. after the system is evacuated, it’s fairly straightforward to remove the old switch and replace with the new switch. At this point I rented guages and a vacuum machine from advance auto to fully vacuum the hvac system. I also ordered a new dryer. This is the one that I ordered from Amazon: UAC-RD 1149C. i first installed the new drier. Then I did a full vacuum for one hour to remove any moisture that was in the system. (This is a critical step and should be done anytime. Your AC system has been open to the air.). After the vacuum, I closed the blue valve on the guages completely and let everything sit connected for 30 minutes. I then checked the blue gauge to ensure that it was still holding vacuum. It was still holding vacuum, which meant I had no leaks within the system. this particular car had never been upgraded or retrofitted rather to r 134. But rather it still had r 12 when I bought it. keep in mind that our 12 had been removed from the system as part of my troubleshooting and repair work. so while there was no R 12 in it, there was still oil in the system that was compatible with r 12 and not r 134. Finding r 12 is near impossible and when you do, it can be super expensive. And doing a complete and proper change over to r 134 meant swapping out all O-rings in the system, draining the compressor oil and possibly other steps that I was trying to avoid. so after reading more, I opted to go with Redtek refrigerant which is compatible with systems that had r 12. Ordered two cans of refrigerant (6 ozs each) and one can of their oil (3ozs). At this point, I simply followed the basic common instructions on how to add refrigerant and replacement oil into an AC system. Note: for Redtek refrigerant, you use much less refrigerant than you would R134 or R 12. 12.2 ounces is all you need. I ended up using the full 3oz of oil (which also has some amount of refrigerant within that can),and about 8ozs total of Redtek refrigerant. Basically one full can of refrigerant, one full can of oil, and about a half of a another can of refrigerant. my compressor actually kicked on after adding just the 3 ounces of the oil/refrigerant within that can.) At that point, my low pressure was about 39 on the blue gauge which is the recommended psi. And the air coming out of the vent inside the car was cold again. So at that point, I stopped adding any more refrigerant. GetLanguage Courses and that is how I fixed my AC without having to do a complete R134 changeover. oh: almost forgot: I did change the low and high-pressure ports on the compressor to quick connects. For the low pressure port on the compressor, any of the ac gauge kits sold on Amazon include the proper quick connect fitting for the low side. But the high-pressure connector on my 88 conquest was a smaller diameter than what any of the kits included. UpgradeBathroom Faucets UpgradeBathroom Faucets so, had to order this for the low side from Nostalgic AC parts R-12 to R-134a Adapter High Side 3/16" × 1
-
Hey, The forum wouldn't let me post in the HVAC section, so i'm posting it here. I have a 88 conquest with automatic HVAC. I've got a thread in the restoration center under "Conquest Project." I need a little help/advise. My HVAC head unit does not illuminate. The buttons beep when you press them, but the blower motor does not turn on. I have not tested the blower motor with my power probe yet, but that will be the next step. Any thoughts on why the head unit beeps but the leds do not light up? Also found this wire under the passenger side dash when I was messing with stuff. It is not plugged in to anything. Any Idea where it goes? http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o563/lgarbz/IMG_0684_zps0du50hn0.jpg http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/o563/lgarbz/IMG_0685_zpstizd3nmq.jpg Thanks in advance!
-
'88-'89 HVAC Controller self adhesive "Overlay" Kit...NEW
natallica posted a topic in Parts for sale
Here's another one fellas! Some of you had been asking for these so I went ahead and created them as well. A ton of time went into getting these correct, but all-in-all I think they turned out well. These are "identical reproductions" of the original HVAC control faceplates for the model years 1988-1989. Removal of the original is similar to the earlier overlays that I offered here. Replace yours which may be worn out, or if your tired of the Star Wars Orange look or if your ride is themed differently perhaps with Mookeeh overlays then go with a new White one. The choice is yours: These are available in 2 colors. OEM Orange: http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC01739.jpg White: http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC01740.jpg Both are self-adhesive, just remove the original, clean the faceplate mounting surface align and apply the new one. http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC01735.jpg *Please note the backlit portions of the buttons (i.e Economy, Auto, Up, Down, Fans, Defrost, Face/Floor Defrost etc...) will be clear, along with the small openings for the orange on/off LEDs when the adhesive backing is removed. I did make one tiny little change to these, but I don't think anyone will object, or notice for that matter. Pricing for either one of these items will be $25.00 shipped anywhere in the U.S usually within 1 day of ordering. My paypal address is: natallica@comcast.net *In the Paypal notes please provide the preferred color overlay along with you mailing address and screen name. DIsclaimer I assume NO responsibility in ANY damage done to your faceplate if you choose to purchase one of these kits for yours, I am only offering these (and these walk-throughs) as an inexpensive cosmetic replacement to old worn out buttons. Apart from finding a brand new unit (which is impossible) this is the only option that I can think of, so if you think you are mechanically inclined enough to dismantle and scrape glue and metal and clean surfaces...then by all means grab one of these kits. It's relatively easy to do if you take your time and be thorough in the prep, you should be happy with the results. No overlays will be replaced 'free of charge' due to faulty preparation. *Faceplate in photo not included Thanks Guys, lemme know what you think! -N8 -
I'm looking for the pipe that goes from the water pump and y off to go into the cab and the intake manifold. The part number is MD090940. Mine is all rusted out. Does someone have a used one that is still in good shape or know where I could buy a new one? Thanks.
-
In my other post I explained that after much discussion I've decided I just cant commit the time and resources to this project that I wanted to. I will eventually sell the car by spring/summer but for now I'm going to list my performance parts I didnt get around to installing. I will add more as I go but here are the major ones. Please add PP and shipping for items on listed prices. Feel free to email or PM me w/ any questions. ebay Type RS blow off valve w/ 2.25 adapter pipe - $40 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/gallery/album_1127/gallery_7736_1127_20039.jpg Bosch Coil - $30 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/gallery/album_1127/gallery_7736_1127_3909.jpg HVAC gauge plate (black, new never installed) - $20 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/gallery/album_1127/gallery_7736_1127_4595.jpg 3 pc BSEK and timing cover gasket set (from DAD, brand new) - $25 (sock not included) http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/gallery/album_1127/gallery_7736_1127_7427.jpg Smaller stuff may show up later but this the major stuff for now. Feel free to get at me w/ any questions.
- 19 replies
-
- balance shafts
- hvac
- (and 4 more)
-
SOLD!Hey Guys, I recently pulled this out of a roller that I picked up, and some of the usable parts I'll be revamping and putting them up for sale. I figured I'd list these few items as I get them completed. The front of this unit was pretty beat so I took several hours and removed all of the flakey buttons and what not, and replaced it all with one of my 87 HVAC overlay kits. This unit has NO BROKEN TABS and also comes with the matching control unit. http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC02776.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC02775.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/SQC%20Items/DSC02779.jpg I'm asking $50.00 for the whole unit and $5.00 shipping. I will ship USPS Priority Mail (2-3 day delivery) Paypal Address is: natallica@comcast.net Thanks Guys -N8
- 4 replies
-
- natallica
- Controller
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Is there somewhere I can get a new digital HVAC control head? The metal flake is wearing off. Also on the steering wheel radio controls.... --or-- Does anybody know what the process is called to paste metal? I recall seeing on tv once a process for crafts where they took paper thin sheets of metal and used a paste to adhere it to something. I had a buddy in high school that was a jeweler and also remember seeing him do something like that. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I wanted to post this in the restoration section but i guess my postings are too low in number. http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo141/koulbreeze/IMG_20111129_100319.jpg http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo141/koulbreeze/IMG_20111129_100310.jpg
- 12 replies
