Search the Community

Parting out 1988 Mitsubishi Starion Orland, Ca 95963 just off I5 90 miles north of Sac, 60-70 miles south of redding Would like to sell the whole thing. Wheels and tires are already sold. Take the whole thing for $500obo. Had a small engine backfire and burned a fair share of the wiring/throttle body area. Wheels, tires, turbo and intercooler are already spoken for. Body is in great shape other than the driver front fender. All glass is great except windshield. Mechanical: Has brand new kyb struts front and rear with adjustable ride height strut sleeves. LSD rear, 5-speed trans, stage 3 clutch, lightened flywheel. Motor had less than 20,000 on it, but would need to be gone through at least to replace gaskets and seals. Brand new walbro fuel pump. Custom full 3" exhaust with no cats and a 4.5" fart can muffler. You would have to make it adapt to your stock or an aftermarket downpipe because the way the person built it. Interior: Dash is no good, headliner is okay.. just burned the cloth off. Rear seats are salvageable if you can get all the melted plastic off. Rear panels are all perfect. Has the rear wiper fluid reservoir in perfect shape. Power windows and locks work. Hell even the stock alarm worked until the fire happened. Lol Can't really think of anything else. Comment on here or text/call me for more info. 530-519-8001 I have no clue how to add pictures, but I can't text or email them to you if interested Thanks for reading

i have been chasing a miss for a few weeks now. it all started with changing the plug wires and rotor and cap. the plugs , rotor and cap fixed my miss when under boost at WOT. but now i have a miss at idle and cruise. after 2 weekends of messing around and checking all that i can. including every ground i can find. i think i have it half way resolved. i replaced all the vac line from the T where the cruise control is to the t-body. i noticed the White Check Valves near the wiper motor do not seem to move smoothly or freely. thet seem to take A LOT of effort to get them to move. once they are blocking the vacuum it takes a ton to get them to open again. shouldn't they move easily with no force?. I tested them out off the car with clean hose and the suck test. on a side note i believe the GM MAF is also causing some issues. i need to get another one to test with. i will be doing the TPS reset tomorrow. too dark out. i did test the TPS with an analog meter and it sweeps just fine. i tested the ISC per MIKE C instructions and it seems to be functioning properly.