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http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/Mobile%20Uploads/B4B7AA79-DCD5-45D6-9C4B-E4AD6FC8671D_zpsy4ueswry.jpg I'm back and have several kits ready to go Comes with a new pin (polished, hardened steel -grade 12.9- with new washers and clevis clip) Also comes with 3 graphite finished bearings, (2 for the clutch master cylinder arm, 1 for the pedal itself) This pin WILL NOT wear out like the factory one, and these bearings can be replaced if they ever round out. Kit prices (shipped lower 48) right now: $20 for everything but the drill bit $25 with drill bit Send (AS PAYMENT) to Aaronwork4@gmail.com Please include in paypal memo: Sqc name What you're ordering Name & Address To install: Remove the pedal pin Remove pedal Mark position of lock nut (behind the clutch pedal adjustment) leave locknut in place (maybe dab with loctite to prevent movement) Unscrew the Clevis Arm (round part with rubber bushing inside that attaches Master Cylinder to the Clutch Pedal) Take Clutch Pedal and Clevis Arm to your workbench Drill new holes with 12mm OD bit and press in supplied bearings Use hacksaw or grinder to remove excess bearing that goes through the other side Test fit and Reinstall. Comments, Complaints & Tips always accepted

ACT extreme pressure with 6 puck sprung disc and performance street sprung disc $268.07 shipped http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o23/1skillz/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/C0B2F907-22EE-45A7-9B8E-B8F2F3C8D38D_zpsjzk5waxh.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o23/1skillz/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/FDAB0C36-1059-4FEB-B58E-9AE42DF76081_zpsc81qve9v.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o23/1skillz/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/88F37EF2-12C3-4FFE-8FBB-A0C213B287A9_zpsrbb5y5ma.jpg

I was hoping someone knows where I can buy a SS clutch line? Or if anyone has one they would like to sell? Thank you!

NEW INFO! http://www.starquest...40#entry1463370 LAST PAGE-- BEARING KIT COMPLETED GET RID OF PEDAL SLOP ONCE AND FOR ALL Does your Starquest's clutch clevis pin look like this? http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_6894_zps22839a99.jpg http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_7979_zps49cd782f.jpg http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/D8CCB1DD-47E2-4766-B1FE-06900C036691_zpsh5qrfqd0.jpg I am selling drop in replacements pins made from 12.9 grade shoulder bolts as well as kits to upsize the holes and bring them back to stock size with graphite lined bearings They are cut to size, Hole drilled for clip pin, Holes chamfered, and polished with 2000 grit sandpaper -New prices: (shipped to lower 48) $10 for stock sized replacement pin $20 for kit (includes pin, bearings, and drill bit) Payments to: Aaronwork4@gmail.com

I have in my posession a Fidanza flywheel signed by Professor Quest himself, along with a Stage 3 clutchnet clutch and pressure plate rated for 600 pound feet torque. Came to me as part of a parts bundle, appears to have very little use. http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/photo1_4.jpg http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/photo2.jpg http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/photo3_3.jpg http://picturehosting.com/images/oblique9881/photo4.jpg Looking for $500 plus shipping, no additional charge for the PQ autograph. Pressure plate bolts and flywheel bolts included. Pilot bearing included but feels pretty sketchy, you'll want a new one plus a flywheel dowel pin.

I have a new 88 OEM Clutch and Fly Wheel for sale from NAPA. I installed them on my car and never drove it, now I'm selling everything. 130 Shipped for the Clutch and 130 Shipped for the Fly Wheel. Pictures available just let me know.

Well just plain simple Should I bench bleed the master clutch cylinder Before I put it in? Any tips or tricks? Suggestions?

So after working on her for 9 months I thought my car was ready for a decent drive. This was the first time I drove it more than 20 miles or so in a day. I drove about 80 miles of mostly twisty back country roads. About 2 miles from home a loud metal on metal sounding grind/vibration started to happen. It seems to kick in at around 2000 rpm and continues through the the rpm range. Seems to happen in all gears. When not in gear there is an on and off knocking sound. If I push in the clutch I feel some feedback and a gritty type feel. After a few seconds of the clutch being pressed in the noise stops, input shaft stopping maybe?... I initially thought it was the clutch or throwout bearing, but after reading through the forums I'm not sure. During my drive I was beating on her a bit. I thought I heard a similar sound doing a right turn power over, but it went away as soon as I let off the throttle and the car straightened out. This was also the last time I got her loose. I have not had the transmission off since I have owned the car so I do not know the condition of the clutch parts. Should have checked those I guess.... Also it looks like at some point the car probably sat for at least a year, maybe longer. The most recent work I did was the brakes (rotors, rebuilt calipers, steel braided lines, pads, and master cylinder). When doing the master cylinder I noticed it had been leaking quite a bit (no more paint down my left underside FTW). It is possible some brake fluid got into the bell housing/clutch I suppose. Any help would be appreciated. My HOA is a pain so I can't do any work at home. I have a buddy a few miles away with a shop and a lift that I do all my work at, but I can only have the car there for that day. So I have to have all the parts I need when I take the car. I'm a little short on cash right now so buying a tranny and clutch kit together are probably out of the cards. I can do one or the other. Thanks for reading.

I am looking for an 88/89 240mm flywheel. Doesn't need to be resurfaced already, I can take care of that. It will be going to 97006.

will be looking at replacing the clutch soon and had some questions - the car has an aftermarket pressure plate (no idea what sort) but a stock flywheel and stock clutch disc as well as stock hydraulics as far as i know the stock clutch hydraulics have 100k miles on them, with an upgraded pressure plate, and soon an upgraded clutch, is it worth replacing the clutch master/slave cylinder as well? a performance pressure plate would be putting additional stress on the old hydraulics, correct? the clutch has a gap of about an inch or so before the pedal starts to move the clutch- but from reading around on the site that sounds like a pretty regular issue to run dot 5 in the clutch system, new hydraulics would be needed as well as braided soft lines - worth it? thanks for your thoughts Aaron

This will be my first experience with what will hopefully be a fun, safe, reliable daily driver...Ha! No, really. just getting it to run for the occasional autocross and fun on the weekends will be exactly what the car is for. BUT....frustration. It does run there's no doubt of that. The engine came from a ram 50 and apparently does not have the nitrided crank required for the turbo? Although i have read conflicting opinions here on the matter. That aside, there are some mysteries to solve with this motor. Long story short, previous owner could not find a crank for whatever short block was in it. apperantly when he bought it, he spun a bearing in 40 miles since oil pump wasn't primed, rebuilt with balance shaft delete kit and forgot to plug shaft holes, low oil pressure, blew motor. Then decided f-it and put balance shaft back in and forgot bearing or somethin and balance shaft rattled around in block and needed shim for bearing or something. Checkered past leaves short block from ram 50, balance shafts deleted, head and intakes and TB from what i am assuming is the original car. Is this a good start for anything? there's a few bare solder connections in the engine bay, broken and disconnected sensors, questionable wiring, cracked and crumbling accordion, and a TB that could use at least a rebuild with wire wrapped around it holding the clips to the injectors. It was thrown together in short order by the seller, did run, but was leaking oil and anitfreeze pretty bad so I decided to at least clean it up to see what i;m dealing with. Degreasing reveals leak from re-used circular packing and the radiator is pretty obvious. I got it all cleaned up and running again but the clutch was totally flat. I took off the master and slave clutch cylinders, cleaned those up, replaced the nearly black fluid and I think thats pretty much sorted out. Except for the release fork boot, it was turned 180 and wore a hole through it from the clutch cover. Trans fluid didnt look so good either, Brassy and black. Some 1mm sized bits from gears stuck to drain pug magnet. I threaded the oil feed line that wasn't threaded. The feed line was there but like three turns into the unthreaded hole. Is that because this is the timing chain case from the non-turbo ram? Or is this not threaded on either? Does it need to be threaded deep enough for the line to seat in there properly? The turbo was searing hot but wasnt making any strange noises. The accordion had about an inch of lip left on it with the clamp holding it on. The blades don't seem to be damaged in any way from sucking in chinks of anything. Not sure really how to proceed once i get it all back together....replace a few things; accordion WTB and buying vacuum hose too at the dealership. Start with the throttle body? This seems like the next logical thing anyway, rebuild or replace and make sure at least that is working correctly? Electrical will be a nightmare and I'm avoiding what i still see as wizardry. Brakes and suspension in due time... Cooling system definatley has issues. I have a radiator shop down the road so i'll drop that off. Do they sell hose replacement kits with all the hoses included or am i dreaming there? The running temp barely got above the lowest line on the drive home but I'm not putting much into that till i can get it to the point where i can actually recover some codes for it. The car currently sits with the rocker assembly off waiting for the circular packing to put it back together with hopefully that leak solved. A trip tomorrow to the dealership for a couple circular packing replacements (i'm assuming i will have this off again soon) and re-assembling the motor and hopefully it runs again. So far its taken untold hours just to get to replace a $3 part to find out what's really going on with this thing lol. help?

I picked this up as an extra but it looks like im not going to need it. It will need to be resurfaced. I was told it came off of an 87 manual quest. Looking for $25.00 plus shipping

I'm parting out my 87' 2.6 motor to do a motor swap. I have everything, The crank will need to be polished....I spun a rod bearing a while ago and was gonna rebuild it but I have changed my mind. I have a new, still in the package, AJUSA head gasket that I got from engine machine service and I also have all the lower and upper gaskets, all brand new. Tranny shifts great..No grinds or slips. Clutch has 600 miles on it. It's a stage one clutch from eBay......Have all the stock intercooler piping, stock intercooler, pretty much everything needed to put back together. The pistons and rods are still good, Just need new main and rod bearings. The head has no cracks. The block is cleaned up and ready to go. I will have pics up soon. Make offer on parts you need or want. Please PM me or call/text 815-302-6897. Thanks, Brad Will be posting more here in the next few days. I still need to pull the ECU and all that good stuff.

Hey fellas, Looking for a 88-89 240mm flywheel, either aftermarket like Fidanza or Competition Clutch (or HKS!), or maybe a lightened stocker. Reply or PM me, thanks!

Hi, I am looking for a good flywheel and pressure plate combo without a clutch from an 88-89 starquest. I am a college student, so my funds are kind of low. Please call me and we can work out a price. My number is 763 - 218 - 5781 Mike! Thank you! Call anytime between 10am - 10pm Text any time you want!

looking to buy a clutch cable. asap money in hand. preferably a braided line. im trying to find a jolyrgr if there is still one out there if not someone please point me in a direction. also i need the banjo bolt for the clutch slave cylinder. money is ready when you are.

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk206/calebwhetzell/360%20Conquest%20project/012-1.jpg Brand new luk hd pressure plate with clutch align tool never installed http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk206/calebwhetzell/360%20Conquest%20project/011-2.jpg http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk206/calebwhetzell/360%20Conquest%20project/008-2.jpg New exedy clutch disk installed and car drove maybe 50 miles... http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk206/calebwhetzell/360%20Conquest%20project/010-2.jpg http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk206/calebwhetzell/360%20Conquest%20project/009-2.jpg $100 shipped

88-89 exedy clutch

Hello starquest, I have basically a complete setup for sale from the trans tailshaft to the nose of the engine for sale. the engine has 108k miles on it, i drive it everyday im just looking to sell everything to do a 360 swap. the turbo has been rebuilt with about 600 miles on it new seals, bearings and the works and while i was having the turbo rebuild i had the exhaust/wastgate housing ported to match a 3'' downpipe. 5 speed trans has the same amount of miles as the engine, it shifts nice and and easy. i have a new 88-89 exedy clutch and a pressure plate in the box with pilot bearing and throwout bearing.. intercool in perfect shape, all factory pipes, the ecu, maf sensor, air box, i have a 3'' stainless downpipe and full custom 3'' exhaust with hangers for factory mounting and a 4'' tailpipe lead from the cv shaft to the rear bumper. if you have any question just message or call. 620-704-8744 Caleb. CALL WITH OFFERS PLEASE please dont insult me with lazy offers, i will be very lenient and negotiable on prices. SOLD 88-89 clutch!