Search the Community

Alright, so i have a 1989 chrysler conquest tsi. i hear that you should be boosting 7psi until around 4k rpm. And then 10psi after that. Mine does the exact opposite. so i get 10psi at lower rpms but then it drops to 7psi after 4k. My idle is high also around 1500. sometimes it idles around 1000 but usually 1500. Any help would be greatly appreciated. is there a way to make it just run 10psi all the time? Im not sure how the wastegate works on this car, any other car i would have just installed a boost controller and been done with it. But I am wondering also how the car goes about a 2 step boost setup. thanks!

alright so just to start off, i finally bought a second starion, i had one a few years ago, bought it, put a clutch in it the next weekend, and then lost my job the weekend after that and had to sell it (been sad about it ever since) so after a few years i finally stumbled back asswards into a second one, this one is an 87 last one was a 86 both widebodys (love the look) so just to start with the list i have recieved on this particular car as told from the previous owner, my research has proved most of it to be true 1. bored out to a 2.8 with weisco pistons 2. non jetvalve head 3.bigger injectors 4.motor, ecu, and wiring out of a 89 (better fuel mapping?) 5. freshly rebuilt turbo with a full straighpipe (turbo elbow, bend to follow under the car, straight out the back, sounds like a damn diesel..... i like it) 6. i was told it was dynoed at 372 wheel horsepower at 20 psi, unverified but it seems like it might make that much, boost is currently turned down the the clutch is well on its way out, a new one is coming in 2 days then we shall find out for sure problems i am having with this particular car 1. super super rich, i assume its due to running 8 psi with bigger injectors, it pulls hard, one little hickup at around 4.5k then it pulls hard again to 5k before hitting what feels like an ignition cut, super loud backfires and flames, sounds like 2 step launch control but otherwise doesnt effect the daily driving of the car at all 2. i have a few broken vacuum ports right off of the upper water neck that i dont know what they are so i cant replace them till i find out (will post pictures) things i would like to this car so like i said i have a clutch on the way, i also have a wideband on the way and a few other gauges, acurate water temp, oil temp, oil pressure 1. i went to a junkyard today and managed to find a narrow body 84, it had a digital gauge cluster in it, i would like to swap my analog one for the digital one, i have searched but only found results for the technica? cluster, i havent found anything for the early model digital clusters, my fuel gauge doesnt work so i would like to swap the clusters if its possible, i have built plug and play harnesses for the nx digital cluster into 240sx's so wiring is easy for me i just need to know if anyone has actually done it and if its actually possible 2. has anyone made or found brackets to mount a single din radio into the stock location? i managed to wedge mine in but i would like to clean it up and have it actually mount properly 3. the same car i pulled the cluster from has rear window louvers, they are mounted on the top but they dont have the bottom latches, where can i find some and do the narrow body louvers fit a widebody car? 4. my car has no floor mats (typical) the 84 at the junkyard has perfect condition red floor mats( matches my perfectly clean interior) are the mats that say mitsubishi on them oem original floor mats or are the oem original ones only the ones that say starion or conquest?

I have a 100% working ECM from a 1988 Starion. I don't need it now because I am going full MegaSquirt and EDIS. Price is $75 shipped or delivered! Located in Bremerton WA. I also work in Tillicum (lakewood) so can deliver if needed. Thank You! http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj279/volopics/Stuff%20For%20Sale/20130331_192826_zps3aef0dac.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj279/volopics/Stuff%20For%20Sale/20130331_192847_zpse403dc87.jpg

Hey guys, still having woes getting my stock setup on a built motor to run right. Starts idles fine, warms up then steady, fans all coming in OK too. Gradually press pedal standing revs rise OK. Try to move away, accelerate more than a snails pace or snap throttle open she just dies. Standing or moving. She'll slowly accelerate through gears to around 50mph as long as the rpms don't go much above 2500. Needle hits 0 pressure she coughs and pops. Forged and balanced short motor, pauter rods, JE pistons, Fidanza, TEP head ported, large valves and cam etc. Last time I asked about a couple of problems as I was trying to run the engine in on stock TBI and turbo. Since then i've replaced the dizzy with a good one from my girls Starion, the knock box and the TPS too (which I checked). I found crud waste deep in the tank so that has been removed and chemically cleaned along with replacing the pump with a Walbro 255 and a new filter. Also both injector clips. Tonight I tried replacing the vac line to the dizzy with a single piece and checked for other air leaks. getting worried I'm going to pop a new engine here if I don't find it soon Any ideas where to look next. Big air leak? Secondary?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230973494251?item=230973494251&viewitem=&vxp=mtr I'm starting my 2jz swap and have a great motor and transmission combo up for sale! It is listed on eBay and Craigslist for the same price, and the links for both ads are here! http://pensacola.craigslist.org/pts/3762537976.html

Here is an HKS EVC EZ I'm selling. I sold my car and will be posting my extra stuff on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321082915890?item=321082915890&viewitem=&vxp=mtr Opened just to verify contents, and take these pics

Ok I have a 17c for sale. I just got this turbo a few days ago. It came on a G54b that i purchased. Im running my 20G so this is not needed. It does not spin freely but after speaking with a few turbo experts it should be still ok since the motor i bought it off of was sitting in a garage forever getting rebuilt. It has no shaft play what so ever. I think that the previous owner possibly rebuilt this turbo since ive seen the time he put in and the condition of the engine. I put my 20g exhaust housing on it because im using the polished exhaust housing from the 17c. The 20g exhaust housing has a crack around it of about 3 inches. My car did not have any exhaust leaks with this housing that i could hear. (surface crack) The Compressor is fully polished and the compressor itself will actually spin around when hooked to the exhaust housing. (not sure why). Someone could have this turbo rebuilt if they are unsure with it but my bet is on that it will spool fine as soon as it gets some warm oil in it. Has no waste-gate actuator on it or lines minus one oil line!. The numbers on the front of the turbo are TR J6 S 17C. The exhaust housing numbers are 0080 D2 34C 13400. This turbo will bolt to the factory manifold! I see they go for about 500ish. So im looking for about half of that to be fair and account for a possible rebuild!. Looking for $175.00 SHipped!!!!

SOLD Used Aluminum MPI built by Maxboost. Owner is not on the boards. Just tryin to move it for him. Satin Black PC Stock Tstat placement 65mm TB TPS & CTS included 680cc Mopar StgII Injectors http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformamnce/4sale/photo2_zps771a38ba.jpg http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformance/4sale/photo5_zpsed22de68.jpg http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformance/4sale/photo1_zps8386538b.jpg http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformance/4sale/photo3_zpsa7ae3ea8.jpg http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformance/4sale/photo12_zpsbac53134.jpg $650obo

Ok so i traded a friend my 95 GST for his 87 Quest with a built engine but had blown the 14g that was on it. After that was said and done he put a E316g on it and it runs great but after you hit 10psi it spits and sputter like its hitting fuel cut. But earlier tonight it hit 15psi before that happened. So i am wondering what can be the cause of this problem? Because I plan to put a Dual stage boost controller on it and have high boost set to 20psi and low boost at 12psi. Also its not a stock 87 ecu from what ive been told. Also the Gas pedal is stiff as heck, it doesnt have the stock throttle cable its a universal the same friend put in, so i am wondering if i put a stocker back on it would it fix the stiff pedal?

Had my Conquest for two years and still has the same problem. Though I've replaced alot of the ignition, the original problem is still there. What I'm experiencing is like a miss when I get on the gas at load. The engine stutters and I experience loss of power. Especially up hills (greater load). Now I see alot of people say, 'check the vac advance', but I've replaced it and tested the new one. The engine has been timed, properly, and everything but the distributor itself and the ignitor have been replaced. I'd rebuild it but no one has kits. Any Ideas?