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I am working through a poor idle/ shutoff condition on my Conquest. I verified the MAF is working tonight and was going to the next step of resetting the TPS/ISC. A bit of history, this engine was rebuild prior to me owning the car, and I purchased it as "non running" condition. The new engine had never seen combustion until I fixed the one tooth off timing issue. Now it will start, run for a few seconds and die. I can tease it to stay running by playing with the throttle plate, but eventually the issue will catch up to me and the engine will finally stop. Initial suspect was the MAF, but after testing the ambient temp sensor good, and verifying when the MAF is unplugged the engine ran worse and literally flooded the intake with fuel so the ECU is getting a signal, the next stop would be to verify the TPS and ISC motor are working ok. I found the reset instructions for this on the forum but I cannot run the car long enough to get it to "operating temperature". Do I just struggle with the engine until it seems hot enough? Is there a method to use without the engine at temp? Anyone have any other suggestions on the idle issue? Thanks in advance for your assistance.

i have an 86 conquest that occasionally starts and then two seconds later dies. im guessing the ecu presets let it start but when the ecu switches over to the actual sensor readings its not seeing what it wants to... the part that throws me off the most is the fact that it is soooo intermittent. i started it today and it idled great and revved well enough to do a burnout. im baffled here. a couple more details. im really busy i can put my hands on the car every other week and i apologize for that inconvenience. so far i have replaced the fuel filter, injectors, injector plugs, distributor,(maf(not new)) and ignighter box. fuel pressure is excellent by the way. and so is vacuum when it idles. the car has 67,xxx original miles im just looking for a list of things to test and check. thanks guys for all the help!

Opened mine up in hopes to r&r, turns out was missing a brush and 2nd one was almost gone. So im in need of a working condition used or new TPS for an 87 starion. Im located in Olympia, WA. shipping 98512.

im looking for an 86 throttle body with the sensors and injectors if you could. tell me a price lets do this. tell me what you got.

I was doing the tps reset and the volts were going crazy I opened up the tps and inside attached to the throttle body is a nipple looking thing on a plastic wheel that moves the slot on the tps my problem is my nipple is broken and not engaging the tps can I buy a new plastic peice for the inside or do I have to buy a new TB thanks

History on my issue http://www.starquest...ic=134673&st=20 Started out with as an issue running super rich with the gm maf, but the maft wasn't even powering the actuall gm sensor so i moved on to installing a 1g eclipse mas air sensor from my good running '88... Should the car idle with just the primary hooked up? At idle My can dies if i unhook the seconday and dies if i unhook the primary (just not as quick when i unhook the primary) FYI the following test have been done at least twice check for stock codes, none except o2 when idling led light check on injectors while idling both lite up cts checked ok, tps checked ok, ics checked ok double confirned with multi meter that the seconday and primary are actually wired right. (traced back to ecu) also traced for shorts between the injector leads and checked continuity from clips back to ecu harness. Maybe im just retarded and its supposed to do that. issue fixed.

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O.K here it goes, Long Story short, I bought a used TPS off of a member here and he claimed it "sweep tested great!" Well, guess what, the needle jumped all over the place. So I thought instead of throwing $25 in the trash I'll cut it apart and see what it looks like and find out how they work. And here's what I did to fix it. I took a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel and went about 3/16" of an inch behind the wires, and was careful to only cut through the thin plastic housing. http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02640.jpg Pulled the halves apart, carefully! http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02641.jpg I cleaned the 'circuit' (black and green) surface of the carbon deposits and Q-Tipped the "fingers" of the other half. Be careful not to pull or bend the brushes they break off easily http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02643.jpg I also took the liberty of fixing those pesky broken wires by de-soldering and prying the brass clips up/cutting and re-stripping the wires, then I further strengthened them by adding some heat-shrink tubing where they penetrate the housing. Afterward I copied Mitsu and coated the whole section with JB. I'm assuming they used a similar product because it's a real chore carefully chipping it off. http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02644.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02648.jpg I then reinstalled the 'circuit piece' back into the housing using very little JB Weld around the outer edge to hold it in place (Be mindful not to get ANY on the face of the circuit board), You'll find there is a flat spot on the 'circuit piece' so it's impossible to put it back incorrectly http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02646.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02648.jpg Now, I know you're all gonna laugh at me here but...) I took a Mountain Dew bottle cap, drilled 3 holes in it, cut slots for the wires to slide into it and filled the whole inside of the cap with JB. Then I adhered the cap to the rear and let it set up really good... this allows it to totally seal all of the wiring from the elements (wiping off the excess and trying to make the cob-job look semi professional!) http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC02649.jpg I'm sure if you guys look around you can find something that may be aesthetically better than a bottle cap, but believe it or not it make holding and moving the TPS during a reset a lot easier with the grippies. I was just playing around to see if it would work, and by George it works like a champ. So if you can solder and you have $5.00 for some JB Weld (Kwik Set) Long story short, it didn't sweep test at first, now it sweeps great! And hit's 5.0 volts so I must've done something right! *Please note, I assume no responsibility if you damage the one and only TPS off of your car. If you're feeling froggy and you want to "try" this repair, I highly recommend you pick up a junk TPS from the For Sale boards... trust me they aren't that hard to locate Thanks for reading this and please let me know if this works for you, or if this helps you at all, You guys always go out of your way to assist me, so I can finally contribute something to the community Besides the decals and overlays. Thanks -N8

Im in need of a tps sensor pig tail. Im using a mustang TB. Ive searched ebay and here for a link. If no one here knows where i can get a new one I guess Ill check the scrap yards Thanks for looking!