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Price up front: $2,500 or best offer - I am not parting out. Everything must go as one package deal. Car is located in Granite Falls Washington State. Not far from Marysville or Everett. It has been kept inside a shop and not subjected to the weather. Clean title, I have the CarFax from when I bought it if you want. Hello Everyone! The time has sadly come for me to sell my beloved Starion. I have had this car for 4 years and have done a ton of work on it. Last year I took a job that works me 50+ hours a week. I was also recently in a really bad car accident which has disabled my left shoulder due to damage and surgery. Between those two, I am unable to finish my project. Right now it is not running because I pulled out all the stock engine wiring harness so I could convert it to EDIS4 with MegaSquirt. I also removed the intake manifold as I was about to build a new one for MPI. The engine does run perfect after the rebuild. The rebuilt engine only has 500 miles on it. Car will need to be towed away! Right now it is parked in my shop on wheel dollies for easy movement. Please read all the notes below. If you have any questions please feel free to ask. Here is what has been done so far and what you get with the car.... Engine: 500 miles since rebuild, I've just done the 500 mile oil change. Rebuilt 2.6L 4cyl G54b BRAND NEW M28 non-jet valve head ARP Head Studs and Mains Bigger cam Ajusa metal head gasket NEW Timing Chain, Tensioners etc. New stock pistons and ring etc Dr. Injector 850/650 injectors Adjustable FPR (Can't remember brand) K D M Hard Pipe Kit with HKS SSQV BOV Manual boost controller 14g Turbo (12c is stock) GReddy turbo timer Walbro 255LPF fuel pump A/F gauge in A-pillar pod Aftermarket Boot Gauge NEW - MegaSquirt I Programmable EFI System PCB 3.0 with Black Aluminum Case NEW - MegaSquirt Stimulator NEW - MegaSquirt 10' Wiring Harness (uncut and brand new!) NEW - MSD EDIS4 Ignition Coil NEW - Wells Crank Sensor NEW - Dorman Crank Wheel NEW - Aluminum Crank Sensor Bracket Assembly NEW - Aluminum EGR & Distributor Block Off Plates NEW - NRG 4 Point Racing Harness NEW - Centerforce Stage 1 Clutch NEW - Mookeeh MK1 Blue EL Glow Gauge Overlay NEW - Genuine MOMO Type D28 Leather Steering Wheel NEW Ignition/Fuel Injection Relay NEW NGK Iridium Plugs NEW Coolant Temp Sensor NEW EFI temp sensor NEW Fan Switch NEW Spectre Air Filter Yellow Top Optima 51R Series Transmission: 5spd manual w/ NEW Centerforce Stage 1 Clutch. LSD Rear End from an 88' Starion Exhaust: 3" turbo back straight pipe. Rims: SHP Rims with NEW tires! 16x8 Front - 205\55\R16 - Forgot what brand 16x9 Rear - 245\45Z\R16 - Nexen Interior: Black leather interior is somewhat taken apart. I removed it so I could run stereo wiring and other accessories under. All the interior is complete and included. Carpet is in great shape. I re-foamed the passenger seat and installed 14 vibrating massage motors. There is a button on the middle console you press to turn on the motors for a full body massage! Truly one of a kind!! Exterior: Silver w/ black hood, 6/10, has small dings here and there and no air dam. Passenger fender is a little rough towards front, comes with new fender that is white. Exterior will need a little help.

This is how a power curve should look! http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformance/FUNK%20LAB/Killaphil/image_zps1ftcipry.jpg Built & Toond by FunkyPhil Wiseco 8:1 Block Magna MPI M28 Head Funk Lab Cam HX35 @ 24psi Stock Exhaust manifold AEM Water/Meth Inj MS1X http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformance/FUNK%20LAB/Killaphil/260c80a9-1b7c-42a7-90f5-a325b594da05_zpsbchm2vno.jpg http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformance/FUNK%20LAB/Killaphil/Engine%20complete_zpsk2lvola9.jpg http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh538/sqperformance/FUNK%20LAB/Killaphil/D2%201_zpsvika6lax.jpg

hello. well im not too new to starions. but a newbie to the whole forums and such. own 3 star/quests right now. i am in the mits of building my 88 starion with a gt 60trim turbo 1000cc injectors and megasquirt. my problom is in weather or not to run her tbi untill i find/can afford a mpi.... im running stock internals with 30xxx miles on them. I only am using this big of a turbo cause i got a ballbearing garret turbo, megasquirt(fuel injection pro) and injectors for $200... i only wanna maybe 15 to 20psi pf boost till i finish my other motor. Is it safe to say i hurt her trying this with tbi or could and has it been done safely? Im a new dad working two jobs to get things right. so im not balling on no budget. any and all advise is nice. please and thank you.

SLC Pure Plus: Sigma Lambda Controller Pure Plus SLC Pure Plus is a complete Plug and Play Lambda Controller capable of 0.01 Lambda accuracy without the need for constant and complicated "free air calibration". The SLC series Lambda Controllers are the only Lambda Controllers on the market utilizing programmable switch capacitor and programmable logic technology. Such advanced technologies allow for high accuracy and fast response times in an efficient integrated design. 0.01 Lambda accuracy Digital display USB connectivity RPM Pickup Single 0-5v analog input Real-time datalogging Programmable Linear Output Programmable Narrowband Output Over voltage protected Dual fuse design Widest operating temperature of any competing unit INCLUDED: SLC Pure Plus Lambda Controller 8ft oxygen sensor harness 3ft power cable 3ft auxiliary cable 2x fuse holders 2x 250ma fuse (replacement included) 2x 5A fuse (replacement included) 3ft USB cable Software CD Quick start guide Brand new in box includes Bosch 17014 UEGO Oxygen Sensor ($55 new) $175 shipped USA for the whole kit. http://www.ns-micro.com/~phanson/pics/g54bt/640/IMAG0042.jpg Bosch 17014 Sensor has 2 foot lead to connector Bosch LSU4.2 UEGO Sensor Part Number: USA Bosch 17014 Alternate Part Numbers: Universal Bosch 0 258 007 057 Universal Bosch 0258007057 Standard Motor Products SG897 Airtex 5S4265 ACDelco 2133894 SLC Pure Plus is completely compatible with Mega Squirt Connect the Linear Output from SLC Pure Plus to Mega Squirt, configure megasquirt for; 10[AFR] @ 0[V] linear to 20[AFR] @ 5[V].

DiSCLAIMER: I may rant. OK, so a few years ago I fell in love with the SQ and have been dreaming of the day to get one right. Well that day is near and there are many of you out there feeding the noobs bullstinky - time to air that out. I've fully built my car from the oil pan to the valve cover and here's how to save money, time and stress. Don't worry about the SPARK (distributor), putting EDIS, MSD is all good and dandy but you are wasting money and time. Nology wires are all you need if you decide to upgrade, everyone else is just trying to sell you s***. Most of the guys on here that have these cars are a little weird in a sense. They see the world there way so you should keep this in mind and remember that its YOUR CAR. Get the SHORT SHIFTER, it's 150 from Mookeeh and worth every penny. It makes that truck motor under the hood FEEL like a sports car. It will reduce your 6 inch throw to 2 maybe 3 with a sexy firm, smooth feel (thank me later). Dont be scared to floss the polish on it as well, most guys are too cheap to buy it so if you got it . . . let it do what it do. ENGINE overhaul: PAIN IN THE tail <-- avoid at all cost. It's better and cheaper to buy a refurb from Jasper engines. Not only will it be NEW - it comes with a beutiful warranty. If you are going MPI like I have, swap out the intakes and drop it off for a new one if you blow. Mechanics hate working on our cars because they are old, rare motors and requires them to think - they hate thinking. If you have the time to do ALL the work go for it but for everyone else with ambition, buy it and keep it moving. HEAD: The Schneider cams and all that is WAYYYYYY over rated. Same with the Marnel and AUSSIE options. Keep a fresh pair of lifters, STAY HYDRAULIC and throw in a jet valve elimination kit for breathing - that's it. The port and polish, TEP manifold and all that other non-sense is useless. Been there and done that. MPI: Damn near a waste of time UNLESS you intend to put a bigger turbo on it. Race manifolds will cost $500+ (get over it) - the magna is cool but is stock - remember that. When you go MPI you must buy a standalone - no way around it. Expect to spend $1,000 on the unit. STANDALONE: I went with MegaSquirt and freakin hate it. The customer service sucks, no one knows how to tune it (because they didn't design it to fit on cars) and they charge your for EVERY LITTLE THING. Here's an example: I purchased the MSII for $550. Then I had to buy the harness, then the stimulator (to test the actual MegaSquirt), then the power charger for the stimulator, then the usb cord for the MS2 unit, then the adapter for the cord that plugs into the unit, then I had to go download a specific program/ driver for the CORD (yes, a driver for the fuckin cord) and then . . . there's more :-) Then download Tuner Studio which cost $90 more dollars and that's not all folks but I'll pause for now. I EASILY have $1,100 in the MS2 which isn't bad in comparison to a $2,000 but the true difference is most Tuners support the AEM's and etc whereas the MS2 is not. Forget about tech support from DIY, all the guys there are engineers and can barely speak English (literally). They don't understand the impact of a friendly user interface nor wish to endorse it because they rather sell you the PNP (plug n play) and that's a whole nother story. WIRING: BE TOTALLYjz about the technique used to wire your or it will catch on fire. Old wires turn into this funky dust inside the silicone and can burn up under the right conditions. Don't think it won't happen to you? It will. My experience has been let the mechanic build the car and the technician wire it. Nothing is worst then seeing your investment go up in flames. Absolutely insist on soldering where applicable and crimps with heat shrink everywhere else. STAY AWAY FROM ELECTRICAL TAPE!!!!! GAUGES: oil, boost, temp <-- essentials a/r & rpm is a plus. The essentials are there so if s*** gets real on the road, you might be able to save your motor. The stock gauges are horrible and should never be trusted. Need an example? The STOCK boost gauge is electronic - damn thing flies around everywhere versus a after market one that is analog. Oil and temp are the same. Knowing what's going on with the motor is mandatory - if you feel it isn't -go drive with a blind fold on. FUEL: Leave the fuel pump alone unless its broken. It has all the pressure you need. TRANSMISSION: Will handle 500hp, 450 trq MOTOR: Will handle 480trq stk (you need the above to get here) NITROUS: Best s*** in the world, 150 hit all day AIR DAMN: Them s**** break ALL THE TIME, look for a poly urthane one that BENDS. Avoid all fiberglass versions. LOUVERS: They are lame and if I see you with them on your car, I'm laughing AT YOU. REAR SPOILER: Read "louvers" TBI: Truth be told its not that bad. If you want to MPI your s*** the cheap way: here's how to do it. Tap & add 2 additional injectors after getting your hands on a 86 ecu. Why the 86 and not the 89? Here's why: The 89 has a primary and secondary injector. The primary sprays to about 2k rpm then the secondary kicks in. The 86 sprays both in an alternating sequence. When you add the injectors, put on the clips and run them parallel from the stock ones. IE. Injec 1 goes to clip A, injec 2 goes to clip B. Make sure you have the same injectors and not using stock ones. Injector 1, Clip A should be on cylinder 1 & 4/ Injec 2, Clip B on 2 & 4 - that's it. Not really rocket science when you REALLY think about it but you leave it up to these low life scum bags on here and they'll sell you everything under the Sun but the truth. EXHAUST: It's only a pipe, stay away from name brands because they wont make you faster. You'll just be that idiot that paid $500 for a pipe. TUNE: As a mention, the ONLY time you should go MPI is when you anticipate a tune. You can TUNE the TBI however you must do it manually, this means taking OFF the vacuum advance and dialing back the distributor by hand. Swapping out the MAFS for a 4g63 one is a start and will help it breathe. Well I'm done for now . . . if you guys have anything to say in contrary to the above statement - race me first. #**********

-looking for mpi setups or manifolds, either can work, let me know what you have, custom, magna, or anything. -very interested in hx35 but let me know what turbo set ups your selling. -also looking to go standalone. . megasquirt, aem ems, haltec, etc. just let me know what you have. text jake, 540-490-0574. you can message on here but dont get on much, email is jcolvin25@gmail.com thanks guys!

As stated TH350 adapter plate and flexplate adapter $325 plus shipping (NEW) FIP Fuel computer (MS1) $225 shipped (USED) Mopar Stg II 670cc inj $50 shipped (USED) Hardly used 255/50/16 MT ET Street Radials $275 + shipping (USED) Also have a couple stock 87-89 injectors / fuel rails / tps Stedebani short shifter (straight) More to come