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only place i know to start is from when i got my 86' widebody. this will be my first post on the forum, as usually i can find a solution to my problems in the years of info in this forum but my problem i havnt found anything. this is my 2nd 86 dodge conquest tsi. the first looked great but ran poorly and threw a rod. anyway i received my second one with 89,000 miles. paint was trash but ran pretty well and everything was there and then some. it has had a fuel cut issue since ive owned the car but i just keep it under 7lb about a week into ownership i blew up a jet valve and thought i blew a headgasket, i saw smoke i shut it down and tow it to my shop. crack the valve cover off to find a stuck jet valve and a broken rocker ear on the first rocker on the intake assembly. luckily by the grace of god it was one big chunk and i was able to remove the debree and it not damage anything from what i could tell. so next thing to do for me was put in a jet valve elimination kit to get rid of those and not have to 1 buy a new jet valve rocker and jet valve or 2 not have to convert my valvetrain to full mechanical valve lashers etc. at this time i took the lifters out let them sit in oil and took apart pretty much the whole head besides the valves and valve springs and the head itself. i also noticed the car run better without my mas plugged in, my first conquest did the same thing and i never ran it. ive done the same with this car and it hasnt ever given me issues. im fairly sure only very early production conquests and starions can do this. This is when i realized that i had a brand new head, and heavy duty valve springs, and the upgraded "thicker headgasket", every bolt had a check paint mark, dropped the pan and same thing with the same paint and everything felt tight, leading me to believe this motor was rebuilt right before i got it. the head was squeeky clean. i got the jve kit in and while i was away my dad put the sproket back on and stabbed the dizzy, when i got back was time to time the dizzy and tweak it. car ran ok after words but i never thought it ran just right and the car would over heat sitting in 1min or more traffic and was almost pointless to drive unless i was hwy cruising. so i have my buddy time the car while im gone at work and i drive it home and its on kill mode and running better then ever. i pull into my driveway about 20 mins down the road and its dusk and i noticed glowing coming from my engine bay, pop the hood, and my turbo header is glowing red/ orange hot. i found out the hard way and almost blew my car up that i need to do everything myself and by the book. so i time the car by the service manual with the vacuum adv unplugged at 10btdc. ever since car has ran pretty ok but still would over heat. so i decide to redo the whole coolant system, new water pump,hoses, 160* thermostat, and a thicker aluminum cxracing radiator. still would over heat. untill i dumped a bottle of water wetter in the radiator and since hasnt broke the temp of the thermostat ive ran, i recommend that to anyone witha hot quest. i also did 2 12" slim fans on the back pulling and tied in the ac fan to push. absolutely fixed my overheating in oklahomas 105* days. now ive got everything working good and staying cool i blow the stock turbo seals out so replace the cartridge with kinugawas stock replacement. it actually has done very well and havnt had issues boosting on it or having irregular temps it stays nice and cool with the motor. i received the car with a catless down pipe and i had the secondary cat deleted so now its straight piped to a muffler. ive replaced 95% of the vacuum lines as most were original but i will note the secondary box was deleted. but still had vacuum lines that tie back into the tb vac lines to the sensor. i deleted the egr valve, but it still has the top vac port routed with the thermo sensors etc, the bottom port is blocked off and the sensor is still plugged in, the secondary air control sensor is still plugged in and a vac line running into a junction with the thermo sensors and egr/ vac adv to the first port of the tb. second port is capped, third is for my bov, lower goes around engine bay for cruise etc already replaced, top one goes to my pressure sensor and guage. i should note the car already has new injector clips, ive dropped the tank and replaced the pump and filters, tank looked good. ive rebuilt my tb properly. replaced the alternator with the best i could get, my voltage guage reads just over the middle line on the guage but hasnt given me problems. my cars struggled with oil pressure or at least what the guage tells me. at warm idle its at 1/4 on the guage, cruising it will be a tick over 1/2 on the guage. but i dont know if the guage is 100% accurate either. ive replaced all my fuse links. the ignition is brand new inside with a working hks turbo timer wired up,msd masterblaster2 coil, new plugs/wires,newer dizzy not brand new but not oem. has a 3 wire o2 but only 1 wire is connected and it looks poorly connected. it also had a safc under the gloved box with wires everwhere but not hooked up and working. just did the oil pan gasket and not sure where i could be losing oil pressure. all of that info is to ensure alot of this car has been touched and 85% of my car has brand new parts on it to assess my wierd issue about a month or two ago my quest decided to die with medium braking/ turning into a parking lot, clutch in no throttle. well over the course of a month it got worse. if im going 5-10 mph and lightly use the brakes or turn it wont die or if i keep my revs up to fight it stalling. its like just the right amount of braking at the right speed while off throttle it just kills itself immediately. medium hard braking it will instantly die, if you gentle on the brakes you can kind of regulate the stalling. so i think maybe a tps isc reset is in order. well at the same time my cars stopped over heating so i decide to put in a 180* thermostat and bring it closer to oem. i do the thermostat no issue. i saw i could problably simplify my vac lines a bit from how they were so i took the vac adv off the t it was on tied with the thermo sensor and sacs and egr sensor and give it its own line to the first port and put the rest of that junk on the second port and run my bov its own line to the third port. i reset the tps and isc and got out for a drive. it idled better and drove smoother...... until i got to the first stop sign where it immediately fell on it face. i start it back up and continue on my prarie nurburghring and then it starts sputtering like crazy once it hit boost. like it was missing really bad. then it would go away and absolutely haul balls. when it would do a decent pull it would run the best ive felt the car but the other 2/3 pulls it would misfire like a machine gun in wouldnt budge. really weird as ive never had this issue with my car before. so i limp it to my shop and of course it died every time i needed medium brakes. i start thinking vacuum for some reason so im inspecting everything and all looks ok i replaced the firewall line for good measure today because i never did before. no fix. my boost gauge is show -12-10 something like that right in between 7 & 14 even when cruising making me think vac is a problem so i take carb cleaner to all my connections and i dont find any vac leaks, so then i pull my plugs and they look great! i put the dizzy line back how it was and put all that back on port 1 and capped 2 and leftbov on 3rd port. im truly running out of ideas and i have the only starquest ive seen in oklahoma so there is barely anyone that knows jack about these so im very hesitant to take it to someone i generally do all the work on my cars like clutches and diffs etc im not shy of hyard work and i have the tools. any help is appreciated thank you guys!

AS a follow up Fronts only looked up on EBCrotors.com 1999 Toyota Tacoma 2WD 3,4L V-6 NON Pre Runner EBC Black Stuff Part Number: UD433 EBC Greenstuff 6000 Series Brake Pad Sets (Front) — PArt Number: DP61317 EBC BrakesYellow Stuff Part Number DP41317R

is there a post of someone using a dodge daytona brake booster? does anyone have information about that swap? i believe it was Professor Quest that posted the information. anyone have any info on this? Thanks,

My car sat over the winter with the e-brake on and now the calipers in the back end are shot Ifound rotors on a website but I can't find brake pads or calipers anywhere I've done my 6 hour sit down Google research I have the 1987 conquest tsi and I can't find jack for this car I can't drive it till those parts are replaced and i need my car to get to work everyday please help asap. Need some websites

My car sat over the winter with the e-brake on and now the calipers in the back end are shot Ifound rotors on a website but I can't find brake pads or calipers anywhere I've done my 6 hour sit down Google research I have the 1987 conquest tsi and I can't find jack for this car I can't drive it till those parts are replaced and i need my car to get to work everyday please help asap. Need some websites

Had a mechanic replace my rear pads. After 1 week or so...I noticed a brake smell after driving it. I touched both rims and they were both warm/semi hot. After another week...it went away. This lasted 2 weeks and the brakes started grabbing again...When I was driving one day...I tried to pull the ebrake up and down real hard to see if it would help release the grab but it made it worst...the brakes were really grabbing/locking now and then I had to pull over. The brakes were locked up and the car would not move. I sat there for an hour to let it cool and tried to go again and it released to the normal grab and I got it home. Can someone tell me what to check for? Could it be the E brake need adjusting? Its a 87 starion ESI.

Noticed a funny smell today after driving home from work and narrowed it down to the rear brakes. Jacked up the rear end and the rear brakes are locked. I eliminated the ABS a little while ago (with a Wilwood bypass line from Summit) and replaced all the brake flex lines with stainless (Techna-Fit lines). Bled the brakes until the fluid cleaned up. Replaced the master cylinder and both front calipers as well as the rear right caliper about a year ago along with the e-brake cable. The weird thing is that both rear brakes are locked. Maybe the proportioning valve is clogged? Anyone have any suggestions? UPDATE: I bled the rear brakes but no effect so I removed the proportioning valve and the downstream side gushed a bunch of fluid out. I'm guessing that is the problem? What does one do to check it without having pressure gauges etc? Also, can it be disassembled easily without ruining it? UPDATE: Opened up the proportioning valve and cleaned it all out. I wasn't sure which way the little ribbed o-ring in the bottom so I put it in so that it sat the same as the curvature of the inner wall. Cleaned all the gunk out of the end of the bolt, it was pretty dirty. Then reassembled everything. I wasn't able to find any major problems so hopefully the little bit of gunk in there will fix it. Otherwise, the only other thing I think it could be is the master cylinder (which is brand new).

Heard alot about the ABS delete on our Quests, with the extra lines that are needed, but no write up? Ive been searching around to find a thread on this, but to no avail. As far as putting this into the brakes catagory, I'm not permited to add any new threads, so it's ending up here in the newb catagory. I'm sure some member on here can direct me in the right direction to the thread, then I can quit surfing like this site like google! Thanks, Dale

i need to get some hoses for the brake reservoir to master cylinder and the clutch reservoir to clutch master cylinder. the right of this pic. the hose is thin compared to the hoses i have access to. Mine are hard and brittle. any suggestions? http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/ABS/AB-60.jpg

well i am doing a complete 240sx rack n pinion swap i just want to make sure im getting everything i will need 1. s13 power steering rack 2. s13 cross member 3. s14 knuckles 4. s14 5 lug hubs 5. s14 lower control arms 6. z32 4 piston brakes 7. z32 rotors im pretty sure this is all i will need but i just want to make sure thanks

Hello, I tried searching for anything related, but I can't seem to find anything that addresses my issue. My brake engagement was inconsistent so I decided to bleed the brakes. I bled the brakes in this order: PR, DR, ABS, PF, DF. All the calipers bled appeared to bleed normal and I kept going until I saw clean fluid from each. The ABS however never did stop shooting air. I went through an entire quart of fluid and after a bit the fluid coming out was clean, but always had air in it. I used the two person method to bleed the lines and made sure to close the bleeder before the other person let the brake pedal back up. When I drive the car the brake are more "consistent" but do not engage until the pedal is nearly to the floor, and I cannot come to a quick stop. If I let the brake pedal up mid braking and push on it again it seems to engage higher and more forcefully. Any ideas? Some history on the car: 1987 ESI-r I bought it in very rough condition and have spent the last 6 month or so trying to return it to stockish working condition. This has been the first work I have done on the brakes. The pads are a bit worn and I plan on replacing them, but have not got around to buying a set yet. Also the red brake light in the dash is always illuminated. It went away for a short time after bleeding the lines, but is now back on. I checked and the reservoir is still at the full line.

All prices are plus shipping. PM me for more info Rebuild Distributor with Like New VACUUM Advance and Like New Plug wires $85 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/95e8ef4b.jpg Brand New Monroe Dynamics Front brakes, Set of 4 -- $35 http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/bdf5feda.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/307bf664.jpg 7. A/C Compnents & Emission Components -- Price Negotiable. Don't need much here, just make it worth my time to pack and ship http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/992ef0ba.jpg http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/54b8d437.jpg 8. Various Parts (EGR Blockoff Plate, 3 Port WGA SOLD, etc.) -- Make Offer, will let go cheap http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e161/steve7672/5f009529.jpg

Hey Im pretty new to the fourms and I was wondering what kind of brake upgrades there are out there for my 88 Conquest? Also if there are any Coilover kits available?

I'm excited to be putting these on this weekend. They just came today! R1 Concepts Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors and Brake pads. http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC01829.jpg http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC01832.jpg ...and 3SX Teflon Coated SS Braided Brake line kit http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff408/n8tallica1/DSC01830.jpg I'll post pics after install for those who may be interested in what these look like (along with a review) -N8