BKB94

Updated parts 4-sale

I’m installing D2s right now and yes the camber plates are marked L & R but it’s not correct. If I try and put them on the respected side they look like the picture above, that’s not correct. So you need to install them as if you were standing in front of the car looking at it. Let’s call it Asian prospective. Just did the rear struts and they were labeled wrong also.

Kev you went nutz on the sound deadening, I’m not planning anything like that. But now after all that and you don’t know if that made a difference I think I’ll do about 1/2 the work I was planning. I have done many of our cars over the years and have been very happy with the results for not much work. I have been using freeze guard for 30+ years and keep coming back to it after using other products.

No, but I will be listing a set of ST springs front and back, front tokico struts 1mile on them and rear tokico struts with 3k miles on them. Powder coated top hats and new front strut tops. Everything that is on my car in my build thread is removed and will be listed in a day or two.

My winter projects are my 87 restoration and drivetrain swap. Just pulled the front struts and getting ready for the D2s. Didn't like the dog squat look. Next is my 1994 mustang. I have a full maximum motorsports K-member, torque arm set up to go in along with some painting and detailing of the undercarriage. This engine hasn't been touched in 20 years so I think its time to pull it and do a bearing check. It went threw hell with me learning how to tune and then so called professional tuners trying to kill it on the dyno. A 3.8 V6 with 15psi of roots blown boost at 13.1 AF and 30' of timing sounds very weird at 6500rpm. The plan is to drop it and the TR6060 out the bottom. Clean and paint the undercarriage, check out the engine and degree the cam, install suspension parts. After all that my next car I think will be my 1967 Mustang, Kev I see a 64-66 in the background. I have had my 67 for 33 years and maybe its time to do something with it. It will be a Resto mod, actually back in the day I bought a Mark VIII for its drivetrain and a supra front end for its nice integrated aluminum double arm assembly. Supra front suspension, Mark-8 rear suspension and instead of the 32valve mark-8 engine I would probably do a turbo coyote and I hate to say it automatic.

5-speed driveshaft $100 cross members $20.00

Parts always look nicer with some clear on them. D2s are all corrosion protected and assembled. My diy cheap rear camber plate was a bust so now I need to order one from MKS. I really didn't want to put these on right away but I'm kind of running out of things to do on the car. Body work and paint is next and I can't do anything till its warm again. So I will slap them on and do another alignment and see how much better I can get it. I had a spare windshield that was very nice, I was stupid to leave it in the front clip outside. Mother nature took over and a weed grew up inside the A-piller and broke the glass. This windshield is in pretty bad shape with 130k miles of stone blasting and the windshield wipers left swipe marks over the whole windshield. Buffed it out and I'm pretty happy with it, about 95% of the wiper scratches are gone. I wish I would have buffed it when the engine was out because you need to use a lot of pressure. Should have taken a before picture to see how bad it was, some cerium oxide is in the stone chips and makes it look much worse then it is. This trim tool does work very well at removing the upper trim. Have a few interior parts to put back in and then I need to work on a different project for a while. Wife wants me to do a 240-260 or 280Z car, I had a 1981 280ZX T-top car in high school and I miss that car. Guess ill start looking and see what's available and how rusted it is. Only about 3 weeks before I go back to work so I need to accomplish something.

started powdercoating so had them torn apart. If they really wanted to call this a street kit 6" would have been the better choice, this I would call a drift or stance kit. No torrington bearing just plastic and grease, sure that will last long.

I freeked out a bit when I looked at the springs and they were labeled 11.5 and 12.5, but now I understand the factory lists the diameter of the wire along with free length in MM. Something totally not logical, spring rates are actually not listed anywhere. Quality is about what I expected not great not horrible. The one huge issue is you have a little over 4" of shaft travel total, guess I know now why they use such high spring rates. So you can only go so low on spring rate before you run out of suspension travel. I need to figure out what I'm going to do for corrosion control, either Powdercoat the parts or 2k clear along with anti-seize. Then decide if I'm going to install now or latter. For now they are going on with whatever spring rate they have and once they break in ill decide if im going to a 350-300.

I can make a drop in replacement exactly like OEM except for the wiring. This would be around 100 ohms empty and 2-5 ohms full just like the factory with the low level thermistor. The top would probably be just 3 wires potted to the top and you would need to cut the car side connector off and use something like a 3 wire GM weatherpack connector. Not something I really want to pursue but if the community needs it ill consider it. What do you all think a fair price would be?

Compression test has way to many variables, cranking RPM, TB open or closed, Warm / Cold, leaks. Leak down test will give you a true health of the engine. You will also know what's causing the issue by the sound either rings - crank case noise intake or exhaust vale. Is this MPFI, what are you using for a crank sensor, what is your holley telling you? You should have full data logging abilities to troubleshoot this easily. I know little about the G54 but other engines will run and not have a miss with a collapsed lifter unless you wipe a lobe or something goes horrible wrong. If it was that bad you would have had one cylinder that took many more cranks to reach compression. This is a stock low compression build 7 or 8 to 1?

A picture of the plugs would be helpful. What is your plug gap and part#. Leak down test is a lot more helpful than a compression test.

The firewall and tunnel seems pretty well covered by the factory then it seems the gave up in the hatch area. I never really drove in one of these so I don't know how noisy they are. I do plan to add quite a bit over the spare tire area, maybe some Rox wool in the rear 1/4 panels and doors always need help. Anything else?

Asking and selling are two different things. All the cars in the 5k range in pa have been listed for months. BAT is fantasy land. Need pictures.

That’s about the stupidest thing I ever heard. It’s the spring rate that concerns me not so much the dampening. You have a strut running a front spring over 200% stiffer the a SHP and undocumented dampening control. Doesn’t matter I bought them and if need be will lower the spring rate to something more street able.

Unloading my spare suspension parts. LAY A WAY is an option if you want but your bank says no. Tokico rear struts and Eibach lowering springs. Used no leaks and the strut feels identical to the new set I have. $350 Tokico front strut cartridges 6 miles missing gland nuts and the spacer at the bottom. $150 Tokico Front struts 1 mile just installed November 9th 2022 with proper gland nut and spacers. $200 Also have powder coated spring hat in like new condition, new strut tops ST front springs. Rear Tokico struts with 3k miles on them in excellect conditon with ST rear springs. $400 Will mix and match

Well I hate to say it but the whole time is money thing is starting to ring true for me. As much as I would like to cut off the spring perches and swap Koni yellows in the housing front and back with 300 -250 coil over springs, just buying the D2s is sounding better to me. This car is one huge time suck and there are other cars I would like to build. My mustang is really my bench mark because after 30 years of playing with it I have a car that rides really well and handles awesome. So my tolerance for piss pore suspension is low because there is no need for it. When you look up D2 the biggest complaint I see is bouncing, I will not tolerate that.

All above pictures are correct but I would say this is wrong. This would adjust both caster and camber with no independent control.

72.56MM center bore comes with 3 hub centric rings. 3 3/4 backspacing front and back, fit car well. They did not stamp the width of the wheels but the rears seem to be 1" wider. 205/55/16 fronts 225/50/16 rears, tires are round and hold air.

Obsolete here has been playing with one. Haven’t seen him post much progress lately. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/1988-chrysler-conquest-ecotec-swap/178574/page14/

26mm

Tom, Let’s go for a ride so I can see what your talking about.

What suspension was on before the D2s? High spring rate doesn't ride hard? D2s front spring rate is 3 times higher than what I run in my 3500lb mustang that handles better then my E36 M3.