craig87

My truck(145K) gets changed every 1200 miles or once a year in the middle of winter with the cheapest oil on the shelf. My wifes car (175k) gets a motor craft oil and filter at 5 to 6k or every four months. intreval is dependent on usage. The truck never warms up all the way and her goes directly on the highway to get to work. The old 3k intreval is a joke and the average person (that drives there car more then a mile a day) would never have a issue with the long intreval 7500. The bmw audi intrevals are a whole other story and only are a good idea if you use the RIGHT oil mobil 1 lubro molly pentosin ect.

swap trans odds are you broke the drive tangs on the front pump of the trans if you snugged up the bell bolts.

http://www.rmcybernetics.com/projects/DIY_Devices/homemade_ignition_coil_driver.htm start here i have used 555timers to trigger ignition coils that were based off or this also have used the whole relay thing but with a decent electronics type relay instead of a standar car bosch style.. flame thrower?

Do you have a cd ignition?

taylors suck with a cdi ignition I have run two sets on two differnet cars and at night its a light show of leaking voltage. On to the question If you have less resistance in the wire there is more availible kv to the plug. Now if you have a cd igniton msd ect that may make a difference but with stock or just upgraded coil the diffence will be negligable. I would suggest the magnacore for a good pefromance wire but if you dont have a cd box get ngk or a set of beldens from napa. I can see the dyno showing 3hp going from 100k stock wires to anything good is beter then bad.

any real parts store carquest napa will have a terminal.

Unless your running straight antifreeze it pobably not your problem with running hot. even if your running straight antifreeze probably not you problem. You car should run perfect temps with straight water and two drops of dish soap.

yeah those damn chevys dont respond well to guessing and throwing parts at them sometimes they need a two minute free fix instead of a 300 dollar fuel pump. Oh wait no car does.

codes 133 135 check fuse #13. check for voltage at (lb/or) wire at o2 connectors. the 401 is usualy a bad dpfe or burned dpfe line.

nothing said the o2s were bad...... It probalby said po171 po172 not throw o2 sensors at it... Ford fuel pump problems are few and far between, but not a bad thing to check for pressure bleed. egr code was a po401 right..... You dont happen to have a pos krap&n air filter in it do you? So it misses till the engine warms up.... and it says its lean hmmmm could it be a lean missfire at start up caused by a vaccum leak.....wouldnt be the first to have blown upper intake seals....

use the correct plugs for the car champion is still in business due to brigs and stratton and harley they are the two biggest consumers. Is there a reason that chrysler is the only oem to use them.... hmm the guy that designed the motor knows nothing right.

just remember not everything a sponge soaks up is good

bad connections with high resistance will cause issues one strand of wire will show 12v on a dvom and not light a bulb 55w should not be an issue. DONT SOLDER ANYTHING ON A CAR IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yes solder is a good connection when done right unfortunatly most cant do it right. buy some heat shrink butt connectors and redo anything YOU soldered.

the burn was most likely a result of him touching it then waiting to post on a honda forum about it hurting them finaly removing his leg from the pipe.

New rings are going to seal right of the bat with proper machining. I break everything in the same warm up to check for leaks and bleed cooling at different rpms. Once its down on the ground all bets are off change to oil in 300 miles or so. on a new rebuilt(stock) I tell people 500 miles.

oshkosh wi to michigan meet 28 mpg the whole way 5spd. 5.0 v8 mustang 26 on the highway. NO FRICKEN MAGNETS HANGING ON EITHER FUEL RAIL.

happy birthday (even if it was mine first).

radios are generally only hot in run ignition system has to be hot in crank. if you have to much stuff on while cranking it could cause issue with a weak battery

I love it. Unless its an wierd euro with current traks instead of schematics. But Its all in understanding how it works and developing good test methods. I have thousands of dollars in test tools and my two most used are. Power probe I have three I keep one at work one at home and one at highlyboosteds house. And the best tool ever made is 20ft jump leads and a headlight. The bigest misconception that people have is that you need a voltmeter to do basic testing. Most of the time a voltmeter will back you into a corner if you dont know how to use it properly. just because it says you have voltage doesnt mean the circuit is good 1 strand of wire can carry 12v but no amperage. thats where the headlight comes in if your testing a blower motor fuel pump ect load the circuit. you can determine system integrity with a volt meter but it takes more time to do voltage drop testing then to put a high load in the system. Time is money

ding ding ding relay will click with no feed voltage.

simple stuff man. yes i am a smart tail. what ar you testing with? you never said if you have power going in to the relay. if i understand you you are feeding power from the marker to the green wire to energize the relay right so if the relay still clicks your good. If you cant fugure it out get a coup[le long chunks of wire and a headlight and ill give you my number to call.

pull just the front strap and pull down on the tank those filters take 10 min to change use a good wix filter and make sure you use the new retainers that come with it very common the have th lines pop off if some one that is careless installs the filter.

sounds like a caravan with a cheap fuel filter on it.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4719395260_8ef525b437.jpghttp://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4718748011_50324c44ed.jpg

I have a good set or grey doors off of an 87 hatch also. I need these gone and really dont want to ship but if I do ship all costs will be on the buyer. doors have no door panels or mirrors but the windows and locks ect are still there. 150 bux for the doors and 75 for the hatch.