craig87

those tiburon trans melt the dual mass flywheel if you sneeze while shifting bs on all accounts. Wait till he has to buy a clutch.

snap on clickers are cheap now because most have traded been traded in for the new tech wrench. a 1/2 drive clicker can be had for under 100bux. I personaly still use my old 1/2 and 3/8 snap on clickers just because I dont use them often. my 1/4 is a mac electric thats what I use most often. I plan on buying a 3/8 tech wrench just for torque angle stuff. I would have no problem suggesting a cheap 1/2 or bigger. There is little you will be torqueing that will really need to be dead nuts accurate.

If I warm a car up its only for me to be warm. Other wise I just take it easy.

Yup they will find any reason to jump on the guns are bad wagon. If only we could have concealed carry her in WI.

I rented standard avatar from red box it was worth a bux but I wouldn't have went to the video store for five buxs. So 100bux yea no way in heck would I spend that.

that a lot of money for two bootleg programs that are usless for the most part mitchell and alldata are both online now so if its the old disk stuff its crap anyway. snap on doesn't own alldata they own mitchell autozone actually ownes alldata. I use both programs everyday and mitchell is good for wiring diagrams because they are redrawn and easier to read quickly (euro). alldata had more info and is easier to use . Or its just Im more used to the way they set stuff up i've been using alldata forthe last 15 years and only 6 or so with mitchell. either way not a good deal and I would suggest alldata diy for you if you want to spend money of just use the links from vatozones website. There website is ok there parts just suck.

I find that the dealers guess more then the small guys. That whole gm trouble tree issue where the last line is check with known good part. Do you have a good lowamp probe?

Thats great.

I never had an issue with the fel pro the adjusa was only in the motor for a short time. But the 9116 saw lots of boost and 10k miles. the copper head gasket was junk in highly boosted mpi build. The 9116 with oringed head outlasted the bottom end of the motor. I dont think the adjusa is better then fel pro, my personal opinion

That will be lots of fun. The first 2jz quest was dubbed the corvette killer at the drag strip by the announcer.

Those are great for people that are new to using a "scope" I've never played with a vantage pro but Isn't it the same as the modis's scope but only two cannel. Cool new toy either way. I use a bosch mts5200 It is the best scope out there in my opionion but you have to use it every day to offset the fact that it is worth more then my car.

bought my wifes friend a car so she could get a job. Haven't seen her atleast im only out 600. but on the bright side she sold the car for more then I paid for it.

is the pinion on backwards most starters have a taper to the leading edge of the pinion. I haven't rebuilt a starter in many years other then contacts in nippondeso caravans.

Ill stick to my good old 1100 only 4 rds at a time but You still can go through a case of clays really quick.

Of the top of my head the 06 the y should be be right under the crank pully and the front edge of the pan will hit it on the way out. If you pull the front manifold bolts and the o2 sensor right under the pan it should come out. without pulling the rear manifold bolts. ausuming you have the 12v 3.0. steel pan. the 24v aluminum pan should drop right out.

I guess I shouldnt talk. I sold my car this summer. Lack of parts didnt really bother me, the car was very reliable. But when since I bought my mustang it sat and I was getiing tired of insuring four cars. Go for it you will always be able to talk to the people around here that you have meet. This forum is as a whole going down the tube from what it was five years ago even.

it should be right it looks like the bosch sensor. 0-5v is wrong but we wont get into how those really work. Its probably a china knock off of the bosch sensor with a cheap calibration resistor. But that doesnt really mater much.

Nope friday is the day your boss sneaks a chev truck in for a check engine light at 3:00 and you end up putting intake gaskets in it before 5. I hate it more a week like this on we got first snow thursday night and our next snow is today so all the unmaintained plow trucks that broke thursday need to be fixxed by end of day friday. But Im sure you dont get that problem.

Thats illegal?

The friday thing is universal in the auto business unless you work weekends you have to work hard friday to keep customers happy over the weekend.

cool those bleed hard. I'm a tool ***** so i just buy the right stuff but for me its a deduction.... Anyway good job making it work.

the issue is the fluctuating coolent temp. that is usually an indication of an air pocket at the sender. You can only cool down fluid so fast. Goto carquest ect and pick up the lisle spillfree funnel so you raise the level above the heater core. those ventures montanas can suck to bleed. if you go to defrost the compressor should kick on thats how it work to pull humidity off the window. did you pressurize all the cylinders on a cold motor?

when did it start? how are you bleeding it? does yours have both bleeders or one? when you put the water pump in was the timing cover scorred? now the bad news from what info you gave. best guess would be a cracked head or head gasket not uncommon on a 3.4l. Assuming you bled the system properly it sounds like your getting air pockets/combustion gass. I would pick up a "lisle spill free funnel" And run it with the an elevated coolent level till the thermostat opens and watch for bubbles. Hopefully they stop. If they dont or the problem doesnt go away. I would then leave the funnel on the radiator and pull the spark plugs and air check the cylinders while watching for bubbles. just reread your post the funnel is a important part of the process. that van shouldnt have a heater valve. and a heater valve wounldnt effect coolent temp. still sounds like an air pocket.

im just an auto tech. so bending kneeling all day. I usually wear the tread of my boots in a year or less. the timberlands the footbed wore out before the boots were bald. maybe its just me but at 150bux a pair im not willing to try again.

Timberlands dont last for the price. My last set that are due to be replaced now are thorogood and have been decent. But I have had some of the best luck with cheap boots. not wall mart but 80 dollar range. the tiberland pro ti toes didnt even hit the year mark.