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Everything posted by tux
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Hi Shelby, Ya I know, I know... i gave up on my stock wiring for a while and wired in my AEM ecu. All this other junk that's cooked is for ACCY. I've done tests w/ a bench supply to make sure my wiring for the AEM is good and the ECU functions. But the factory ACCY wiring is still a little hosed. I've got everything replaced with either factory or brand new labeled wiring... the only issue is I have like 3 wires or so that I don't know how /where they originally hooked up. Looking at someone's car would be easiest I think.
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I kinda need to look at electrical wiring near battery under the hood to make sense of what I need to fix yet and what goes where. Had electrical fire quite some time ago. Thanks Andy
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Car start with out pressing the clutch pedal
tux replied to starion revolution's topic in Newbie Question and Answers
i distinctly remember disconnecting a wire header from the clutch pedal to "enable" this feature, on my 87 -
I've been using this site forever and I can never find what I'm looking for with the search on here. I always end up using google's search in site feature.
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I don't know him, but I can't imagine anyone remembering the wiring 10 years or so later. I would suggest tracing the wiring that you are curious about.This kind of thing would be very helpful: http://www.cableorga...deal-33-864.htm *** make sure battery is disconnected ***
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Cracked mine when tapping it. Dealership keeps getting the longer style every time I ask them to order it. Must have the port for A/C switch (a/c switch in it would be cool too) and the port for turbo water line. Thanks* (this style) http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w366/carlosa76/001-3.jpg
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wiggle it a bunch
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Subaru w/ any filter other than stock kept throwing blinking cels for me
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the earl's would be good, but i'd probably have to fill it with epoxy (the end is all chewed up and not exactly round)
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I completely forgot most npt fittings are brass >.<
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I've used jbweld to hold over things before that needed repair but yea, this would be more of a long term thing. I would see about brazing the aluminum to steel together, but i don't particularly want to pull the dash.
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Due to issues with fitment (around MPFI components), I want to have AN lines coming off the heater box's brass pipes, so I can just have 90's screwed in and avoid having to be a contortionist with my hands if I have to replace anything. How well do you think epoxy would hold up to water temp/pressure? If so, which epoxy would probably hold up the best?
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I believe there are two switches on the clutch pedal. One or both may be disconnected. I always disconnected the switch that makes you push the clutch in to start the engine on every car I have had.
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remote would probably be for activating the stock antenna and to amplifier is probably to activate the aftermarket amp(s)
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it's the vents in the header panel
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spark plugs are only a pain until you figure out how to finesse them out without scratching the strut bulges with the wrx
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do you have the air duct that goes under the steering wheel?
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standalone computer system for a conquest
tux replied to njdefiore's topic in Advanced Virtual Mechanic
The Megasquirt or the AEM EMS-4 Mind you, either option will end up costing more than you expect. -
Nice work on the 6g72 swap. Man... EJ20t + driveline swap would be great as well
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My MPI build super slow progress.
tux replied to tux's topic in MPI/Standalone Trials and Tribulations
I'm planning on it starting in January. Repainted over the rest of the winter, then dyno tuned in the Spring and A/C working by summer