scott87star

I took my plug out to get gas for my generator after Hurricane Ike, the gasket was just a thin piece of plastic, almost clear, and it was a flange type.

I just did Hagerty on my two on the road Quests, it was dirt cheap. I just told them $5K each for an 87 flatty Conquest and 87 fatty Starion and the cost was about $450 for both annually.

His secret was to tell the dyno operator to set the "corrections" to the top of Pike's Peak, CO. That and partaking in the now legal weed......

I'm happy with Pheasant. You boys have fun.

Yes, both red wires are the same, switched 12V power from the main relay.

Use the ground next to the ECU, the "ground" around the O2 sensor wire is actually a shield, designed to block electrical noise and not to properly ground an electronic device. For switched power you could tap into the ECU power, blue/green connector red wire. For the wipers I would guess your column switch is bad.

You can buy o-ring material on McMaster-Carr and make a new one.

B-b-b-benny and the Jets..........

How come there aren't any pictures of the cab? We like to form our own opinions around here.........

Where is the track?

LCA, overlap and duration, set any two and the third is defined.

All you are trying to do with WUE is start with a richer AFR cold and gradually lean it out as coolant temp rises to your desired warm idle AFR. For 90% of Starquests that would be an AFR of 12 at coolant temps under 100 F ramping up to 13-13.5 at 175 F and higher. I've found the auto tune for this to be less than satisfactory.

I'd say a flow restrictor, just in case....

Mad skills with an understanding of economics! Rare combination. Go Bill, go!

Wasted spark COP, same operating logic as the SDS packs which is also the same as EDIS packs.

If it works in Florida it will work anywhere. We'll see how they like -40 this winter, I ordered two.

Got the telescope set up, zoom zoom!

I'm not faulting Tim or anyone else but I will repeat, many members have been saying for years not to run roller rockers on the stock cam because the stock cam is not a roller cam, it is a slipper cam. See the wear mark on the slippers in the picture above? It uses a radial rocking motion to follow the lobe, therefore the lobe is ground to a different profile than that used on a roller cam with the limited surface a roller uses and obviously different contact lever (position). So no surprises as far as the stock cam. The surprise MAY be that the cam grinder did not account for the differences in grinding a roller profile onto a stock blank, I say may be cause Kev admits this cam has been sitting around for a decade. That is why it would be nice to hear from Tim and understand the grinding process. As far as Schneider is concerned I think Phil has found they can't follow or grind anything to their own published specs. That's a different (lack of quality) story.

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=147194 And http://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/classic-and-vintage/articles/reduced-zddp-and-wear-protection/

Not really shocking, I would expect the slipper contact to be different than the roller, but I would also expect the grinder of the roller cam to be conscious of that as well and grind accordingly. That is the shocking part here, I'd like to hear Tim C's thoughts. I guess I'm also going to have to pull the Aussie stock roller out of my flatty and check that, you'd think the factory would certainly get this correct.

Hello, I have a client named Stian in Oslo, drives a 280Z, currently being tuned.

You don't solder the connectors to the module, you solder the wires to the connectors. It does make a difference.

You're way overthinking this; start the car, warm it up, get it at the idle speed you want and adjust required fuel until you get the AFR you want. Don't obsess about what the value is, drive.

If the connectors to everything are crimped go back and solder them all. Connect a laptop to the ECU, you can use Tuner Studio and it will find that old turd firmware. Crank it over and look for rpm on the laptop gauges.

Unfortunately you don't get money back for a misdiagnosis, kind of like they don't fire the weatherman when he's wrong half the time. But do pester the crap out of the insurance company and the Hospital to make sure you only pay what you're supposed to, you should be getting a check for $120 since your copay was only $100. Once the insurance pays the hospital of course but they do that routinely. Having spent the last two years dealing with insurance over my wife's cancer treatments, hospital procedures, blah, blah blah I have learned to pick up the phone and call someone. Getting a bill for $50K+ you know isn't correct and having everyone insist it is you will eventually find someone in the system who says "oh yeah, that was covered, our mistake". At least its worked so far......