scott87star

D2's are the answer, I've used them on flattys and fattys and they do transform the car. My fatty had a coilover setup pieced together from old group buys including Cusco camber plates, the D2's just blew all of that out of the water. I slapped a set on my flatty and autocrossed the piss out of it, they just plain work. I actually have two sets NIB I should sell but they sit at my house in the North, won't be back there until May.

Vacuum leak from the brake booster? Could be sucking in a bunch of air when you activate it via brake pedal.

Lack of fuel flow, check/change the filters, check the pump pressure.

All the old familiar names, awesome!

I have found it much easier to go without any idle control on the G54, it has lots of torque at 900 rpm and can handle the AC and power steering without issue, unlike a Miata for example. If you set hot idle for 900-950 rpm then the only issue is cold idle, right around 600, but you can fix that with your foot.

If I recall clearly you just start loosening the cam caps from the back forward until you can move the plug out, no bolts come all the way out, the valve spring pressure opens it up.

PM me an address, I checked my parts pile and came up with 5, including two that have clearly been opened up before. You can use them to experiment and/or one of them is likely good.

I’ve taken many of them apart but I’ve never tried to save the internals, both boards are molded in by tabs on the side structure. Try using a dremel with a cut off wheel to score the top and bottom covers. The sticky goo is a pain to deal with, it’s there to seal out the elements and help transfer heat. I don’t know of a solvent off the top of my head but start with isopropyl alcohol, move to acetone if the IPA isn’t effective. Once repairs are completed use conformal coating to seal things up.

The ECU doesn’t supply anything to the O2 sensor, the sensor supplies the voltage to the ECU. I forget if it’s 0.5 volts below stoic and 1 Volt above or the other way around but the voltage is generated by the chemistry happening within the sensor.

Trust your timing light, not the ECU. Now the basic Hurricane install did not control ignition so you may have issues such as stuck advances (old grease is sticky) or other. The standard FIP box only controls injectors.

Looks much better, it should be running. How do the plugs look? Try opening the throttle a bit during cranking to see if it wants a little more air.

Still got them, who needs one?

That gunk was the electrolytic capacitors puking their guts out, I had to replace most of mine on the board. You can get the specs off the outside of the capacitors to replace them. Tedious but doable.

Can you even get a new one? I have some spares if you know the thickness

I have made them, you just need another ECU to scavenge the connectors from. Doesn’t matter what year, the connectors are all the same, only the mounting tab position changed.

It’s based on an MS2 module but has an additional support board that includes a beefed up 5V supply, onboard MAP and baro sensors and a plug in module for onboard wide band O2. We also included a space for Bluetooth and/or WiFi. It’s great value for the money and it can run the G54 fully sequential ignition and injection if you swap to an early 90’s optical distributor for the rpm input.

I did build plug and play systems, or as plug and play as it could be since you still had to add a MAP sensor and a real IAT sensor, don’t recommend them when a PO has already hacked the wiring. Best to get with Tim and pick up the stand alone with a fresh wire harness, save you lots of time and frustration chasing 35 year old wire harness demons.

No one told me the battery was relocated, you have to have the engine block grounded directly to the battery negative with the same gauge wire as the factory, plus it has to tie in to the chassis the same way the factory did it. Everyone that relocates the battery screws that up.

Tim Ennis, aka motocamTim is now selling Chad manifolds.

My Flatty is MS-TBI running two secondary injectors along with a flex fuel sensor and COP. There aren’t any huge differences in the VE table between MPI and TBI, certainly the overall VE is higher and extends somewhat higher in the rpm axis but you’d only notice if looking at them side by side.

No, I don’t install. Yes, they aren’t that big so you could slide one into the back.

I have three new windshields in the Phoenix area and I believe two in the Bismarck, ND area. $300 each pickup only. Shipping is possible but basically doubles the price. Scott

Looking down at the module in the distributor with the module at the 12 O'clock position the left terminal is the VR+ and the right the VR- on the OEM VR pickup. For the CR125 you run +12V to the left terminal and the right terminal is the pickup, for it to work correctly you need to add a 1K resistor between the terminals, that acts as a 12V pull up to give a 12V square wave signal to the ECU.

There are table generators in each table, under Tools. Just answer a few parameter questions and done. It won’t be perfect but a good place to start.

Hanging!