psu_Crash

I have used the same OEM pump in several builds now. If it isn't broke, don't fix it. Aprox 90k hard miles on my original 86 pump.

Very few of us can keep up with the Kevs! Mine absolutely isn't that clean. The theory with the hardened inserts is that the washer under the bolt or stud moves ever so slightly. Over time it leaves an indent of the hard washer in the soft aluminum head. Possibly causing a loss in clamping force. Then ... cotton candy smoke. The ARP washer pressed into the head now takes the brunt of that movement and is also very hard, so it takes it, clamping force is constant for a longer period, everyone goes home happy. After destroying an o-ringed setup and talking with some G54 drag race guys I decided it can't hurt. So far so good! If I were in your shoes I would pull the engine just to get a better look at what all is going on. Have you done compression and/or leak down testing?

Welcome to the party! Go light a few 20s on fire and cut yourself with something rusty. Just to prepare for the journey 😁 Cheers! 🍹

300 wheel horse can be done at 18psi boost pretty easily with the supporting mods. I would have the shop check your head for flatness. The AJUSA isn't as forgiving at the factory or FelPro gaskets. I'm sure you know, but definitely check the deck for flatness too. Usually they aren't. ARP studs probably aren't "needed" and stock bolts work just fine at your goals. Either way ... it's cheap peace of mind in my opinion. I machined my head for the ARP inserts last time around trying to prevent the coining Kev talks about. 9/16" reamer and chased the holes just 1/4" or so. I have the part number for those in the garage. I'll report back soon.

I have looked into going that route too. Needing the spring on my dipstick was getting old (it's still there). Currently running a custom catch made by funky phil. Seems to work much better.

Kev, I had no idea you put a solenoid valve in the vent line. Neat idea. Then the roll over valve isn't really needed. Redundant for safety I suppose. Mike, I have a large 3 ring binder full of receipts from 26 years of ownership/upgrading that I will NEVER add up. In the end it's about what makes you happy. My car (usually) makes me happy, so I don't care what the cost was to get there. Once you are out cruising it all seems worth it.

That reminds me I didn't put the anti-rollover valve back in my fuel tank vent line. I think most all of us leave the factory PCV to the intake in place. For a breather I use a custom catch can. Removed the stock nipple on the back of the VC opened up that hole and welded a 10-an bung there. Although I am still using the intake pre turbo as a vacuum source for the catch can. Also still draining back to the oil pan. Some don't like to do that, but it has worked for me. Those vacuum lines are a mess for sure. The vacuum canister with it's check valves in that area is needed for cruise to function well and to keep the interior vents doing what you want when in boost. Most of that has been removed from mine so I can't say much for cleaning it up and keeping things functional. If I remember right, the vac lines for the wastegate run around through there too. I would pull them all and then hook up one by one to needed accessories. Maybe a vac manifold

I think we have all been there!

I tapped into the stock tach wire behind the cluster right at the first connector. The Tacho signal can connect straight to it. http://www.starquestgarage.com/ for schematics

Ahhhh .... I bet you are on to something! Now if the OP would respond 😉

Grab the schematics and your trusty meter. Let the hunt begin! You can test to find out if the ECI relay is getting power. If not then the ignition switch would be my next test. Let us know how it goes

We talked about this years ago. I used the MS Tacho signal to an inductor (relay coil), then to the stock tach. Worked great. I have since removed the inductor and it still works straight to the stock tach. I have to be honest though... I have a vague memory of a resistor in the stock cluster being removed/shorted. Any memory of that mod Scott??

I would check the coolant temp sensor. May be "choking" it on start up and adding too much fuel. Specs are in the manual at http://www.starquestgarage.com/

Trans fan?? Not sure on that. Sounds like there is a leak somewhere though. Automatic or manual?

I wouldn't hesitate to remove that secondary condenser. Most that I have seen are pretty beat up, so i can't imagine they are really doing much. As for the PS cooler, i removed that loop and installed a small universal trans cooler made by Derale. I'm sure this isn't needed for regular driving though. I autocross a LOT and after blowing lines apart mid lap a few years back I put the cooler in. Zero issues since.

Same question as TechBoy, does it roll over? Or nothing? If nothing do the accessories still work? I had a starter way back that would randomly not work when hot.

I would say ignitor, but you already changed that and the no fuel pump issue. Do you still have power to accessories? Sounds like you are missing a 12V switched signal to the ECU/Ignition. Have you checked out the fusible links? It's almost certainly something simple. Finding it is the fun part

I thought that wheel was a 36-1. As in 36 teeth minus one. I'm sure that's how I ran it when I had that wheel.

AC is the only real regret. I've debated going with a vintage air system. Maybe someday

4 engines. Balance shafts removed from all. I never noticed a difference, but I did have all parts balanced. I have also had a few stock rods that were out several grams. Most everyone will tell you take them out if you have it apart. Just less rotating stuff to go south.

With a little thought you can effectively keep or remove almost all systems independent of each other. It is definitely a perk when upgrading. One thing at a time or keep it all. Says the guy who ripped out perfectly working AC and cruise when going MPI 15ish years ago... if i knew then what I know now

Hanging with like minded addicts is always a good day! I am often that guy without his car there lol

I'm going to assume that didn't happen. I like where your head is at though Kev!

Of course something has to kick you while you think it's good! Paint the whole fender and in a month you will be ready to paint the whole car. I would do as small of a spot as possible and try to feather it out. I hear you on the paint though. Sometimes it goes great. Sometimes .... Those patch panels look good to me! The moment you saw a spot on the outside of the rear quarter, we all knew what you would find. Keep up the good work! Once it's driving again you will remember why you fight with it

6 hours from me ... ☹️