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gofastredstar

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Posts posted by gofastredstar

  1. coil arching

    in MPI/Standalone Trials and Tribulations

    Posted · Edited by gofastredstar

    If you have a distributor and are using it for the pickup for the ignition it won't matter who did what that motor needs to fire in the TDC range when cranking then it can move to the base timing after its running but you can't easily start a motor at 10btdc and it will be very hard to start at 20 degrees off. If you can't rotate the dist. then you can flip the drive gear providing you see the pin in the gear intersect the teeth at a different position on each side. If the pin was drilled in your distributor and hits the same place in two teeth it won't do any go to turn it 180 degrees. Since one tooth on a distributor is the range you just barely need to get past if you rotate the gear 180 degrees you have now moved that window ~50% what it was so that you will be able to set it where you want. Old versions, like 3 years ago had megatune errors and had the offset windows backwards, they corrected it about 2 years ago, its that part about match the light to the number in the big window etc, well they had that backwards.

     

    Alright, so I unplugged the fuel injectors to keep it from starting. And while the wife cranked on it, I could only get 10 degrees with the timing mark. Here is what my distrib looks like..

     

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3571/3445525009_ac357b6fca_o.jpg

     

    and you can see I can not rotate it anymore. So Indiana, your saying pull the distrib and see if I can rotate the teeth? Thats my next shot at trying to fix this. Any hey, i do appreciate the help.

  2. Bad AF numbers on AEG Eugo wideband?

    in Advanced Virtual Mechanic

    Posted · Edited by gofastredstar

    I can relate to the issues you are having. AEM wideband too, but running a stock ecu, with trilogy injectors, and a 1g MAS. Take a look....

     

     

    Whats interesting is the car ran fine for several months with no issues, then one day it started to do this. But it does richen up under boost and hits around 10 afr but leans out at idle or decel. It actually gets bad enough that the rpms drop to around 500. Oh, and fuel pressure at idle is 38-40 lbs. I did a "boost leak test" to see if any of my pipes were leaking and none were. Removed the bov too, hoping that was the issue but it was not.

  3. coil arching

    in MPI/Standalone Trials and Tribulations

    Posted

    Indiana, thanks for the help. Let me try to understand. You are saying set the crank off set without the car running, and set it as 10BTDC? I did use the megatune software to match the static timing to what I was seeing on the timing light. The problem I am having is that I can not rotate the distrib any further towards the firewall. Unlike lionbull, I have a stub in the head to lock mine and the distrib doesnt hit the manifold. If i pry a screwdriver in the distrib slot and pry it against the head to rotate as much as i can, then lock it down, the best I can get is 15btdc. At 1000 rpms in Metatune, I am trying to match that and I can. I can even pull out more timing at idle with the software. But the problem has to be in the distributor or the timing chain.

  5. coil arching

    in MPI/Standalone Trials and Tribulations

    Posted

    Ya know, i find this thread very interesting because I have a similar issue. I have had two coils that arch between the center coil wire to the negative post. I also have a Mallory Hyfire , FIP fuel and Ignition. The two coils were MSD blaster 2's and now I am running one i bought off Summits site called a flame thrower. So far it seem to work with no arching. But, like it has been said on this thread, that you must phase the distrib and the ignition map, I can not get my ignition to match at anything lower than 15 degrees. It runs fine at 15 mind you, but there is no more adjustment. I have the car all together, MPI, screeming banshee cam with mechanicals, and 50 trim garrett turbo. On the dyno, it would only make 245 hp. What the @#$. The tuner told me that the hp was dropping off after 5000 rpm's and that my timing was not retarding enough, that i was running closer to 24 degrees under boost and rpms. He went on to tell me that the distrib is out of phase. I really have no clue at his point, I pulled the distrib all apart to see if it have moved after it was modded, or if something else was wrong. It looked perfect and matched up with the FIP website. I do know that the distrib is stabbed correctly, because I have a cap that i drilled hole in to see where the rotor is. As of now, I am lost as to how to fix it.

  6. Why are car dont sit right lowered

    in Just plain ol' B.S.

    Posted

    I had this issue on my old red car. I went with all new mounts, kyb struts and st springs. I was prestty disspointed once I had it all back together.

     

    http://farm1.static.flickr.com/26/38785603_4c8b22f33a_o.jpg

     

    So i put coilovers on my blue car, and while I prefer the height much more and the ability to change it, but the ride quaility is much harsher on the coils.

     

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3164/2865073417_27912521d9_o.png

     

    Knowing all this, I have kybs in the front with ST springs, and still all stock rears on my yellow car.

     

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3250/2873776738_e05907d7c5_o.png

     

    So far I prefer the ride on the yellow car the most. Its firm enough up front, but doesnt shake the filling out of your teeth either. And the height is just about where I want it.

     

     

  8. A/C dual pressure switch

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted

    The dual pressure switch is physically a bigger sensor/switch in the a/c hard line by the headlight; the pressure sensor switch is smaller and goes to a white "double barrel shotgun" shaped connector. And jumpering that connector will run the front fan.

     

    The FSM implies the front/pusher fan should run whenever the a/c is ON but 277psi only happens on a hot day. Unless the system is over-charged. On R-134a conversions though having the pusher run whenever the a/c is on is beneficial: R-134a is not quite as efficient as the old R-12 refrigerant... that's why cars today have bigger a/c condensors (radiators).

     

    When doing a R-134a conversion on a StarQuest, tweaking the wiring to the front pusher fan relay so it runs when the a/c runs might be worth doing to compensate for a too-small condensor. But that kills a backup mode of the fans: the engine cooling fan mode (not a/c fan mode) uses the radiator temp sensors (at the bottom of the radiator) to trip cooling fan relays and run the fans. Normally the sensor under the passenger side (larger fan) fan trips just that fan; the sensor underneath the driver side secondary fan ALSO trips the front pusher: when the engine is hot enough to need more than just the primary fan, ALL 3 FANS RUN. If you change the front pusher fan/relay wiring to work independently of the pressure switch, instead tying it to some a/c signal... you'd loose the "run all 3 fans when overheating" function. Only the engine-side fans would run... The real solution: find a lower pressure sensor to replace the factory 277psi sensor... something on the order of 220 to 250 psi maybe. Or another "dual pressure switch" since that is "ON" across both internal switches when the a/c is at normal pressures.

     

    If your a/c spits out ~50 degree air I wouldn't worry about messing with the fans/relays. It's working as well as it can anyway.

     

    mike c.

     

    mikec, good info as always. So it appears that my system was working fine. Like I said, i thought it was a bad sensor since the pusher would not come on with the a/c. I did jumper it and have it running all the time. The other fans work as they sould with the thermo sensors in the radiator. And before I put the car together, I had the radiator rodded, and so far its keeping cool. But the real test will be the 100+ days we get here in TX, with the a/c running.

     

    Oh, and 50 or lower is the best you can get? Guess I am good then...

     

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3628/3381120156_aa3a32fd3f_o.jpg

     

  9. A/C dual pressure switch

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted

    The dual pressure switch does not control the pusher fan. It instead controls the a/c compressor. If your compressor runs, the dual pressure switch is okay.

     

    The front pusher fan is controlled by a different pressure switch; that switch closes at 277psi. The a/c system pressures get that high when the a/c is working hard on a 90+ degree day if you've switched to the new R-134a refrigerant.

     

    Neither switch can be replaced without first draining the refrigerant.

     

    mike c.

     

     

    Ahh, maybe i am missing something here. The switch closes at 277psi, so does that mean the fan would not come on unless it reaches that pressure? I thought the pusher fan ran anytime the a/c was on. Thats what I was trouble shooting, the a/c was working, but the fan was not running. So I jumper the pressure switch, and now the fan comes on with the ignition and runs all the time.

     

  10. A/C dual pressure switch

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted

    mikec, the switch i refer may not be the dual pressure switch then, its the sensor in the hard line by the receiver dryer, and had a white connector connector to the harness. I guess it doesnt matter since you say i will lose the refrigerant anyway, but it would be good to know which one this is for when the time comes to replace it.

  11. A/C dual pressure switch

    in Virtual Mechanic

    Posted

    I suspect I know that answer to this question, but can the pressure sensor be changed out without loosing the charge? I was wondering because mine doesnt work, and the pusher fan will not come on. I just had the a/c charged and it is blowing cold air, but the fan had to be jumpered to get it to come on. Thanks

  12. Treadstone T3

    in Just plain ol' B.S.

    Posted

    I was wondering if my 3"downpipe will bolt up to my 17c tdo6 with the Treadstone t3?I put my turbo on the manifold just to get a idea of where it was going to be ,to see if i needed to clock the downpipe flange or go with an adapter to convert it to a 3 "v-clamp.Im not sure if it will bolt right up without modifying any of the exhaust.Any help would be appreciated thanks ,Gary

     

    No, the downpipe will not bolt up. Like it was said, the turbo moves down and out towards the strut tower. Any easy option however is to cut your downpipe down to the the correct size, and weld in a flew section after it has been cut to size. Oh, and cut of the stock mits flange too, and weld on a v-band clamp. Thats what I did, and ended up using my old downpipe. And you might want to plan your bov dump pipe routing too since the wastegate outlet will be close to the downpipe.

     

  14. ubuntu

    in Digital Quest

    Posted

    There is a program called "WIne" that is supposed to run windows apps but I have not tried it. I really have no need to however, comes with firefox which

    is my prefered browser anyway and open office that opens any MS office docs. For graphics is has gimp which is pretty good, and amarok which plays all

    my mp3. I can map all my shared windows directory's too, so, so far i haven't had a need for anything that runs only in windows.

     

    Got it DL'd. I'm gonna burn it to disk and load it to a different computer. Will windows programs run on it? If not, is there a place I can go to get programs that will?

     

  15. ubuntu

    in Digital Quest

    Posted

    Yep, its around 700 megs for the iso. Make sure you have 20 gigs or so free on your computer for it. And if you have windows, it will move the partition size and keep your windows OS if you want. That way, you can have a dual boot system and not have to move completely off windows.

  19. Modified SQ Ignition Timing

    in Advanced Virtual Mechanic

    Posted

    Hey Phil i did take a look at your map and mine was setup quite differently, but I wont know if its any better until I get the turbo replaced since it took a dump at the dyno. I can post if you'd like when I get back to the house. Oh, and did you figure out how to put the 65k rpm trigger in the FIP ecu. I agree about the 7500 trigger is to high for these cars.

  21. New ST Springs

    in Parts for sale

    Posted · Edited by gofastredstar

    Stupid question, but I was running ST springs with KYB's on my old car....

     

    http://farm1.static.flickr.com/26/38785603_4c8b22f33a_o.jpg

     

    but didnt care for how the car sat so i changed them out for coilovers. The springs have been in the attic for several years

    and how I am thinking of putting the fronts in on my new car. Questions is, is the short or tall springs the front? I cant remember.

    Thanks

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