gofastredstar
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Posts posted by gofastredstar
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Moddied MPI. Comes with the fuel rails as well. $300 plus shipping.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4941643863_09c2a41ef7_z.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4942228870_e9d7e386b8_z.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4942228904_301937265b_z.jpg
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I love cats....
They taste great.
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Sold, thanks.
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I could let it go as is for $2300. Drop your block in and go. You'd still get....
Wheels and Tires
83 Hood
FIP ECU Upgraded
Interior w/ 86 belts
Suspension
Stereo w/amp
Tranny
AEM Wideband with Mallory
Exhaust
Perfect for a 4g swap.
What I would sell separately...
Hard Pipes
Turbo /Manifold
Magna
Alternator
Distrib
Clutch
Stock Manifold w/Injectors
Head
Boost Controller
Fans
Engine is still at the machine shop. I would sell it for the price of the rebuild.
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Excellent. Good job Tim.
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Engine is out and at the machine shop. Going back with cast pistons new chains and having the entire rotating assembly balanced.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4824051618_699befb0ce_b.jpg
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if you get the car running would you trade for a 50k complete stock 89 shp - sunroof with super clean paint and interior.
(Just Checking always wanted a yellow starquest)
Tempting, but I need to think more about movin on. I will hang onto blue, but not need another project.
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As it sits now..........
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4808295137_e918bc308b_b.jpg
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Sorry bro, hehehe, its been posted since June 5th though.
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I'll sell it for 3k without the 83 hood, but i throw the original back on it. $3500 with the hood. I've got to change out the head, working on it now. It will be back on the road in a few days.
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Thanks for all the comments. Its still not sold, but getting more attention. Pulling the head this weekend on it and getting a rebuilt one machined. Then thinking about mpi perhaps, already got the FIP installed and a modded magna sitting in a box. Hummmmmm
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I CAN NOT believe this quest does not have a new home
a most excellent specimen of a quest at an excellent price for what you get. oh, and it's YELLOW too 
C'mon man someone get this quest and keep it in the family 
Thanks bud, still dreading the day it sells. Then the start kicking myself for letting such a nice car go begins.
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BUMP, not sold.
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How many miles on the chassis? Have a friend that might be interested.
Shes got about 120k on the chassis. I can tell the difference between it and my blue car. The chassis on the blue one is pushing 190k, and by comparison the yellow rides nicer, rattles less, and the windows go up and down quickly.
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Not sold, still sitting in garage waiting for someone to take it to a good home. But she is back on the road come monday morn.
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This has got to be one of the best posts I ever seen for someone selling their car, gets the point across.. Brilliant. and looks pretty good. Outside mint I take it? along with interior. Just a few things. What about mileage motor trans history. Rebuilds anything of that sort.? Boost your running, and what the autotune does everything for you? Whats the ecu upgrade? 1 more thing. Why is it listed 100 bucks for wheelbearings? their like 8 dollars each at any generic auto parts store lol. and most of the time you just repack with grease and their good to go. Other then that looking good.
Outside is not mint, but its a 10 foot car. It has hail damage, and the paint is tired in some places. Going down the road it looks good however. Inside is in good shape, just a little wipe down and vacuum and it looks great. Engine mileage and tranny mileage unknown. I got the car as a roller and used an engine and tranny from donor car. Compression runs about 135 each, and I installed new chains, guides and oil pump when I dropped it in. Running 16lbs daily, dynoed at 22lbs. The ecu is a FIP unit that was upgraded to do fuel and spark in one box, and autotune trys to change your ve table to match afr that you have defined. It works for a car that already has a good tune, for fine adjustments, not for tuning a poorly running car. Wheel bearing price might be a bit high. But I did bearings and races when I did them.
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It is now listed at $2300 as a roller minus the engine and the parts I have removed as part of pulling the engine. Details at the end of the thread.
4k gets it.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3070/4563105808_151dd1e212_o.jpg
Outside....
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4020/4660578135_6e580f8d82_b.jpg
Inside....
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4660103798_34d4bff661_b.jpg
Engine....
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/4660103664_23d84eb403_b.jpg
Hatch....
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4027/4660103848_cf195b7299_b.jpg
How much I have spent....
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4049/4660103874_fd59ed5fe3.jpg
That about gets it. There are many other small things that are not listed. Plug wires, plugs, bushings, mounts, pipes, ect are all new within the last 18 months. Thanks
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Off topic, but nice pict here idriftjunk, best shot of starquest I think I have seen.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/1270429023-1.jpg
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Thanks all for the kind comments. Its the "community" like this that I was trying to describe in the interview. Its hard to put into words, but it not just the cars that makes owning these so much fun. It the good peps that go with it.
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All hypereutectics aren't created equal, and those are cast, not forged. World of difference, I've pushed over 200hp/L on Mahle 4032 slugs. The difference is in the tuning requirements, the high silicon content means they don't appreciate high shock loads.
True statement. I have sealed power hypers in mine. The engine has about 15k on it and dynoed at 306. 21 degrees of timing and 11.8 afr has kept it together.
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Hey Tim,
Thanks for the suggestion. Dang I was hoping somebody might say i had vac lines routed wrong or something, but I kinda figured it might be something like what you suggested.
Oh, and I got the wheel bearings replaced. Was a bit harder to do than I thought but having the right tools goes a long way. Thanks for the help there too.
John
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All,,
I just hooked up my cruise control and was a bit pleased when I turned it on and it held the speed as it should. The problem is that it will not disengage. That may not be a good description of what going on, what happening is that the throttle seems to be sticking. If I hit the brakes, it keeps on pulling, if I cancel the cruise, it keeps on pulling. What I have to do is get my foot under the gas pedal and lift up with my foot. If not slipping the car into neutral, and letting off the gas the rpms hold. I have even stopped the car, killed the engine, and restarted and the rpms jump right up. So, perhaps the actuator is no good or perhaps the cable. Anybody have an idea? Thanks
New from Fort Worth, TX
in Just plain ol' B.S.
Posted
There is a few of us here in FTW. Plenty of parts and know how. Good luck with the swap and PM if you need a hand.