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emc

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    virginia

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  1. one of each in the drive. the 1g spoiler is 44 1/2 wide and is rounded where it meets the glass and goes up the side. the quests is 52 wide and square all around. not that it couldnt be done but youd have to cut and bondo ALOT. i do like the longer wing though.
  2. great service. i bent a rim and am waiting for insurance to kick in contacted mark and to check price and availability and he offered to ship a rim he had for shipping and a little to get me back on the road quick. the rim arrived quick and i am very pleased. you did more than was required thanks mark
  3. the bars are great. a few months ago i posted in the gp about making some but ended up on the road and dont have time to put it together. i agree with alspos about the firewall i had two bends about a foot apart with a plate to attach to the firewall. not to down yours only props. a childhood friend has a tool shop and has already made a set of full round plates for the front and rear like jamesR. the single price was high but they dropped quickly the more that were made. id like to see someone finish what i couldnt. keep up the good work and pm me if you need another route for the plates or anything. i may be able to help knock down a gp price.
  4. ive had svo's they in no way compare to the handleing of the quests the solid rear svo is the same as any 5.0 gt with less weight and equal horsepower.
  5. i have a sch 40 header on my car now. it holds heat much longer. if the header is hotter it will tend to heat the things around it also. i have to let my car cool down longer then with even the cast mani. if i was runing hard and had to shut down i would worry. the header has good flow but to do so is closer to the block and oil line it also heats them. i am looking into how to remove the extra heat now. im not downing the sch 40 it can be and is done but as in changing anything it changes other things. just to note with the egt i with out a gage came tell you when the temp is optiomal and car runs the best. but once you pass that point it decrease as fast as it rose. only now its damaging.
  6. the intake isnt near as complicated as the exhaust. ive read sds site as well as others im convinced i can make maniflods. to make the exhaust is more complicated to make it to fit into the stock location with out modding requires alot. i was going to try a log style but gave up and bought shawns. when i got his and installed it i could see the way to avoid certain obsticals. it is a work of art. schedule 40 is easy to get industrial plumbing. one thing to think about is heat absorption.the thicker schedule will desipate less heat over more time than thinner stainless.ford mustang tb are easy to get.youll burn that dremal up get a die grinder.
  7. i ordered his header for my 87 quest. it arrived on time as he said. it is supposed to be a direct bolt in using stock location with no modification required to the downpipe or feed lines. it fits great. the way he ran the first tube into the tight space behind the oil feed required little room for error. there was no error. i can only praise his haeder and him. if all transactions and installations went this well id be pleased. his header does not belong on a car it should be displayed as industrial art. i hope others do business with him and keep him creating quality peices. eli montgomery
  8. looks good tell us how you did it. form your own. can you do more easily. or do you wish to be the only one. can you put lexan on with black edges. blah blah blah. explain
  9. thanks boosted one for the easy tubing. i would have had an exhaust shop try to bend but thats much easier. is the air flow greatly restricted on stock cars. i know the mass air sensor holds some flow back. must of my auto experience have been with non turbo car and v8s. on a 5.0 a cold air intake doenst make noticable changes unless you also change the TB and open up the intake and heads. do stock quests benefit form the change or is it for modified motors.
  10. i have the tubing off my car while i tend to other problems and decided to clean it out it was all oily inside. after cleaning i still had time while waiting on a part and started to sand the scratched paint off. i was going to repaint but decided it would look good polished. i am now polishing all tubing and started wondering about increasing air flow. i thought grinding the lip off the inside of each end would help air flow. havent started that yet. my questions are is the stock tubing steel or aluminum my guess is steel. my car also has what is assume is a bov it makes that cool sound when the turbo is released. did they come on a 87. my boost gage reads 13-14 psi when at full boost. does that mean i have somewhere a boost control ive looked. anyway back to my question how much weight is steel over alum. and how hard is it to find someone who will bend oversised tubing.how much does upsising the tubing help a mainly stock motor. and what size is a good size. i can always search for the answers but some of you already have so i'll ask that you dont make me thanks
  11. cleared mine out today. pre heated the oven to 170 with a pan of water in the bottom. i left them until the plastic became rubbery probably a little to long. they came right apart. i hope hugh is wrong about VA but probably not there d**** here. one of mine is all rusted inside but i have a spare and will clear uot soon when i get a ticket ill post in the for sale area. try the water it seemede to easy. also dont pry on the sides. the top and bottom are stronger.
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