Caliber308

The only other thing I can think of is a vacuum leak. Bill

Hang onto it. About a year after I replaced my stock head with a Marnal, someone posted on here that they needed a stock one. Made $250.00 😉 Bill

Information from 1987 Starion Factory Service Manual Volume 2. Air Conditioning-Troubleshooting Blower does not stop. 1. Harness 2. Power relays 3.Sensor Switches 4. Control unit (diagnosis output) Good Luck, Bill

This is the best advice I can give you: From the 1987 Starion Factory Service Manual Volume 2. Lighting System - Troubleshooting. Side Marker Lights- both lights do not illuminate. 1. fuse no. 6 2. tail light relay 3. lighting switch 4. bulb 5. wiring harness and connector connection 6. ground Check in the order listed. Good Luck, Bill

Check fuse no. 6.

DON'T CUT THE BOLT!!!!! NLA from Japan. P.Q. Said that you could put a little heat to it. Depending on the size of the bolt as a last resort, you might be able to cut a similar notch in another bolt of the same size. After all, we will all be doing things like that when we run out of spare parts and it seems like that time is coming sooner than later. Bill

P.Q. Also said that the bolt was a P.I.T.A. to get out because of rust but it could be done. Spray Blaster in the hole where you removed the thru bolt and let it sit ,don't be in a hurry. If it doesn't come loose, try it again with Blaster. Also the FSM says to make sure that the mark on the end of the bolt is pointing down, most likely for reassembly. Bill

I've never done this but I have read in Professor Quests S.O.S. manuals that the 8" bolt has a notch in it for a thru bolt. Hope this helps. Good Luck, Bill

If you want to check all the hoses for leaks, spray the entire engine bay with carb. cleaner while the engine is running. If you hear the idle go up where your spraying, there is a air leak. Bill

I agree with what Obsolete posted. It does it too with a 1st gen mas setup. Stomp on it and the wideband goes to 10.0 afr. This is why I suggested a Maf-T set up in a prior post, you need or want the control over the Air/Fuel ratio as much as is possible on these cars. Also, if you are running aftermarket injectors, you need to up the fuel pressure for them to atomize properly or else they will not spray correctly and drip fuel. Staying completely stock with your fuel system is sometimes not a option. Install a Fuel pressure gauge and a Fuel pressure regulator. I have suggested all these things in prior posts in this thread. As Obsolete suggested, use NGK BUR7EA-11 spark plugs, I gap mine at appox. .44 or whatever works for your set up ( trial and error). You want the largest gap possible prior to flame out. Good Luck, Bill

Glad you got your exhaust in. Back in the mid 2000s myself and my buddy who owns a muffler shop in Montana built from scratch a 2 1/2" downpipe back exhaust.Then a couple of years later I installed D-2 coilovers adjusted all the way down. Always on the look out for speed bumps, deep dips and never park on dry grass. 😉 Bill

If I were you I would put the Maf Translator and 3"Maf back on the car. This set up is the quickest and least expensive way to achieve control over your fuel/air along with a Fuel pressure gauge, adjustable RRBCFPR and a Wideband AFR to have control over your engine and what it is doing as far as air and fuel . Been at it since 2002 and this is the best advice I can give you to keep a car as close to stock as possible and still have some control over how it runs. I have been the modified stock air can and the 1st gen mas route. Unless you decide to go MPI or a engine transplant (LS1 or the like) I feel the MAF Translator is a good way to go. P.S. Don't let the 6.5 thousand posts fool you!! I had over 14,000 prior to the website crashing. Bill

In the end your going to have to have a way to monitor your fuel pressure and air flow. I suggested in a prior post about how to achieve it. If you don"t have a way to see how much fuel pressure and airflow (via a Wideband and a FPG) your producing at idle, midrange and on boost ,your just spinning your wheels and it will be difficult for anyone to be able to help you with any kind of a viable or accurate answer. Bill

Thanks for the welcome. Bill

Here is information from the FSM. The boost meter is basically an ammeter. Based on the intake air volume signal from the air flow sensor and the engine speed signal from the engine speed sensor, the ECU computes the load and determines the duty ratio accordingly and drives the boost meter. Just because i"m curious... When the p.o. had the 16G installed, did he have a boost controller installed? Here is a bit of information on how accurate the stock boost gauge is. In 1989 when I bought my starion the boost meter would read 14psi at WOT. It was not until 2002 that I started to mod it and installed the autometer boost gauge. The true reading......7psi on boost. Here is a tip... When you install your Autometer boost gauge use the vacuum port below the row of three on the throttle body. Splice it into that hose. Why? You want the lowest source of vacuum for the most accurate reading on the boost gauge. Bill

www.covercraft.com Not cheap....... But custom fit.

That is about all your going to get out of a stock set up. I would install a aftermarket boost gauge as the stock gauge is not that accurate. Autometer ATM-2601 Z-Series mechanical boost/vacuum gauge is a nice one and mounts where the stock gauge is with a little work. If your looking to up the boost safely, I would look into what mods your going to have to make: Ecu upgrade. Fuel mods. Turbo upgrade. Look on this site for information. We lost a lot of write ups when the site crashed, but there are members who can guide you in the right direction. Good luck, Bill

The wires that go to the magnet clutch are a plug with both a black/white wire and a ground. Hope this helps. Bill

Yep. Setting the MAF Translator can be fun. Just wait until you decide to run a GM 3 1/2 inch MAF, that is where the fun starts if you have modifications like aftermarket injectors and a high lift camshaft. If you get stuck....Just ask others who have figured it out by trial and error. Bill

Everything that psu-crash said. I will only add that you might want to check the half shafts and the rubber boots for leaking grease. Bill

Glad you are getting fuel now. You really should install a inline filter between the pick up tube and the fuel pump. Getting the car started and having the proper fuel pressure are two completely different things. There is a write up in the FAQ section on how to install a fuel pressure gauge on the top hat. It is not that hard and may save you headaches down the road, especially on boosting. Just for some future reference. If your car has sat as long as Helterbots did.... don"t try to start it until you clean the "disconnected" fuel lines out and replace all the fuel filters. Then, after you drain the fuel tank, fill it with 5 gallons of 100 octane racing fuel, start it and let it run for at least 30 to 45 minutes. Bill

Thanks for the post. Bill

Thanks. I will do all I can to help. Bill

Sounds like it is time for some new fuel injector clips 😉 Wiring instructions are in the FAQ section on this site. Bill