88StarionESI-R

I want the ZT2 from Zeitronix. Beautiful display, loggable, and if you hook up the EGT and boost, it'll log those with the O2. The price isn't bad either. http://www.zeitronix.com/

another one: http://www.importprecision.com/faq_vls_door_tutorial.htm

Some inspiration: http://www.lambostyledoors.de/index.php here is an animation of the hinge: http://www.lambostyledoors.de/content/funktion.html perhaps it can be copied cheaply?

I understand that it completely replaces the stock ECU, but does the stock ecu control ignition timing? MegaSquirt is fuel only ecu, while MegaSquirtnSpark is fuel and ignition.

Since this thread got resurrected, I was just wondering. Does the stock ECU control ignition at all? With the MegaSquirt, it's a fuel only computer, so the ignition would be left to the stock set up? Deso the 2 interact with each other at all?

Maybe I'm just lucky. I opened up the tank and found the inside to be completely clean and beautiful. Both the pick up filter and conical filter were like-new. The conical filter did have a few deposits at the very tip but that is all. I guess the new pump will go in later. I don't have it yet anyways.

I just took the panel above the fuel pump off. It's pretty deep under the trunk. Is there any way to replace the pump without having the drop the fuel tank?

So..... I still don't know what to use to lube up the bushing when installing. I'm talking about the part above the upper plate, inside the minin rubber boot. It was originally sealed inside the boot. Also where can I find a extra minin rubber boot?

So you didn't put any lubes in the assembly and just reinstalled it with WD-40?

Yea count me in too for the Brembo if it's the same price.

I like your way of modding the stock shifter. I found a cut short shifter at a junk yard. When I was removing it, it had some kind of lube in there, but I had to clean it all out because it was really nasty. What should I use to lube the shifter assembly? Also, wouldn't the lube I use get into where the "ball joint" is and end up in the tranny?

Yea, need the exact grounds you're referring to. And also is there a mesh to ground the downpipe so the O2 sensor reading will be more accurate?

Any tips on applying the clear coat? Since I'm not painting a big flat panel, how should I spray the wheel? It has valleys and hills. Should I mask off the grey color trim area ("star") and only clear the polished part?

I'm still confused. I want to be able to support 350HP, so I will need: pump GSL391 added to cart install kit 400-952 no where to be found on site. however, the price of the kit is exactly the same as the install kit GCL616. BUT That makes no sense. First I'm told to get 400-952, but it's not on the website. So I look for the closest thing, GCL616 kit. But the quote above from Ron says taht's not it. ??? ??? ???

IC. Â So it will end up looking dull eventually if I don't keep it polished. Â What if I clear coat it myself? Â That would probably take away the polished look?

I think this is the right forum. Either this or the suspension forum. I was looking at http://www.starquestrims.com/ in the self polish section. The direction seems to be very clear on how to polish your own wheels. But in the end, the polished wheel is left exposed without any protection. Wouldn't it rust? My hood latch and hood prop was rusting, so I sanded the rust all off and polished it. After I put it on the car, it started to rush after 1 day. Wouldn't the wheel do the same too?

Thanks for the tip. I wish they weren't cross drilled. But I'll keep an eye on the listings before I drive up there.

Hmm, rockauto has some $20 rotors. Just $40 for the front pair. Anyone tried these before? They're RAYBESTOS brand part# 8203

Thanks knightrider. Â The new number was good. Â He quoted me $85 for just the fronts. (slotted not cross drilled) Are these rotors better than stock at resisting warping?

Thanks. I'll try again tomorrow.

I just tried calling the 714 number, no one answered. Do they have slotted but not cross drilled rotors? Even if they're not slotted and just a rotor that won't warp as easily as the stock ones it'd be great.

Groupbuy sounds like a fantastic idea. Put me down for a high pressure walbro. (according to everyone, the high pressure won't overrung the stock FPR) let's get the list going 1. 88StarionESI-R Walbro high pressure

I found the pressure gauge. Thanks again DangerouDrDave. Did anyone ever find the adapter for the metric thread to NPT? I jammed the nylon 1/4" adapter to the TB but it was leaking slowing so I couldn't test drive it.

That is what I figured. If the final speed is the same, the difference in the gearing must have been nullified. So tire trick doesn't really help, you're losing torque for the sake of the speedo. Changing the gears for the speedo should be the way to go.

So making the circumference of the tire bigger will almost make up the difference you see on the speedo. But what about the loss in torque? I imagine a 10" tire (with infinite tracktion) will accelerate A LOT faster than a 20" tire. By changing the gearing in the LSD, we gave it more torque, but by increasing the tire size, we lose torque. If we make the tire big enough so that the speedo is totally accurate, would we lose all the torque we've gained from the 3.90 gearing? Or the gain of the gearing outweighs the tire size eventhough the final rpm vs. speed is the same.