Mike7447

Thanks. Just starting to power up things to see what does, and doesn’t work.

And now for the rest of the story…… Everyone who has an auto knows that the real problem with the auto shifter is what’s under the floor. Worn out bushings, and no source to factory replace the worn out items, leaves most having to cobble something together to make the shifter functional, until the next time the stuff fails. I ain’t having none of that. My solution is much more permanent although time consuming. using the factory cross-shaft, I fabbed up the mounts to support rod ends to hold the thing in place, and mounted it to the factory location on the transmission. Whatever deflection that takes place as a result of driveline twist should be within the capabilities of the rod end. There is also a female rod end on the shift linkage. Side to side movement is stopped by a simple piece of 1/2” heater hose slid between the two rod ends. If additional flexing happens and the linkage shows any sign of binding or the thing tries to change its own gears, ( other than normal automatic operation), I’ll add two more rid ends on the other linkage that goes to the transmission. But if there’s that much twist that the thing comes out of gear, I’d imagine I got mount issues.

Getting there…. The wiring is a big matter of guessing right now given that I cut all of the engine related connectors away, leaving a giant wt.... on the passenger side of the car. We’re just gonna keep plugging away until I can get power to start testing stuff. since I cut the upper radiator saddle away so I could install the engine and trans as a complete unit, I had to stitch it back together. I’ll order some black fasteners from McMaster.. The one wire Ford alternator fits… it’s one of my wiring issues, the old harness had two wires going to the factory alternator due to its internal regulator. The new one is internally regulated. All I knew to do with that return wire was tie it into the 12v supply mount. My throttle body was too big for a 2.5” Cobra head to fit. So I got creative and pressed a small section of 2.5” OD exhaust tubing into the TB.

I was pretty methodical when I removed the harness to prep the bay, and left all of the relays attached, however there is one socket missing something. What is supposed to go where the white socket is hanging?

Do these cars ever bring anything that could be considered “ profitable” ? Every example I see are either below average “ needs work”, or some untouched factory stocker. What if someone ( me) upgraded the car to retro-mod standard, with everything upgraded or modified. what would a really nice version be worth?

The Sun has pretty much had its way with mine. Although nothing is coming apart, the car was parked outside where the sun dried the leather out pretty severely. I have since “invested” in several leather dye/restoration products when/if I decide to try and save them. The bumps are the main reason for not wanting to keep them, but if I can satisfactorily repair that eyesore enough to make it acceptable, maybe I’ll keep them instead. Now that I have a set of instructions though, I will be attempting that repair, and I’d be happy to add the pics and detail the process. ( I’d be more happy if there was actually anybody here besides the few that contribute). Unlike the OP, I am comfortable in my own skin not to have a problem going into a craft store to get the required stuff. 😏

Well, I’d be that guy if I knew that attempting to uncover the bottom cushion would allow me to remedy the weird double bump thing going on in my bottom seat cushion. I’m right on the cusp of either paying to have them custom reupholstered, or replacing them with Corbeaus.

I didn’t know that there was even a “potential ” fix for that, just assumed that the leather had puckered there, and the sun baked it that way. I’d be interested in that link too.

I keep obsessing over nit-picky little details, but aside from some fuel lines, this thing is just about ready to get put in place. The PCV is overly complicated. Whether or not it’ll actually make a difference, there are two separate systems,…. One for boost, and one for vacuum. When the engine is in boost, a 12v valve will open and let any excess crankcase blow by out through a -10 at the back of the valve cover that is routed to the big puke tank up front. During normal operation, the 12v valve is closed and a second pcv valve will allow air to move through the crankcase into the intake plenum after it get passed through an oil separator mounted on the opposite side. It sounds logical to me, we’ll see how it works. Im especially proud of my home made LS coil pack mount that will hang where the P.S. pump used to be. I didn’t want them on the valve cover, and this was the only place to put the things.

Would be best for an intended 15-18 psi tune? What gap? thanks as always.

Link doesn’t work sir.

When you google vacuum modulator for LN471b trans, they come up. As a replacement part for a Mazda. It’s a vacuum modulator that looks exactly like the one I have only w/o the L shaped vacuum hose seized up inside it. It’ll be here Friday. I’ll do the VB mods as per Scott’s instructions, and put that part back together. I want to get the engine and that heavy pig of a transmission bolted together and reinstalled in the car. I tell ya, I have messed w/quite a few auto trans before, w/a GM 4L80 being the heaviest, but this Mitsubishi trans is way heavier than that. Given that a GM 4l60 has a 3.06 first gear, versus the 2.42 first gear in the mitsu, all while probably being 100 lbs lighter has me seriously considering trying to adapt one to the engine at some point in the future.

All I can think of is that some previous owner glued the l shaped hose into the damn thing. I couldn’t dig the remaining hose bits out of the modulator.

I dropped the VB today in order to do the required mods to it for better shifting. That required I remove the vacuum modulator and one of the two solenoids that interferes with the VB removal. I assumed that the hose that was coming out of the vacuum modulator was removable, so I tugged and pulled on it to the point that the hose started to tear. Idk if the hose is actually part of the stinkin thing, but it’s a mess now. Where do we get replacement parts for the trans? I called two of the city transmission parts suppliers and got told that the part was unobtaninium. This can’t be right????

Are you saying you rewired the entire car? I did that on the V8 cars I swapped 20 years ago, but not wanting another 40-80 hours of additional work in front of me. All I want to be able to do is eliminate the engine ecu, and those ugly relays that were hanging on the inner fender panel. I have an 87 shop manual that I used for wiring reference back then, but all I was using it for was to incorporate the factory switches. I got rid of everything else to include the factory AC control panel. This time around I want to keep everything functioning except the Cruise, the ABS, and the trans control. ( I’ll only want control of the OD solenoid, and I’ll use a relay and switch that I’ll add.) I’ll look at that 87 manual and see if I can figure out what needs to stay, and otherwise get to hacking.

Thanks! When I get to that stage, I’ll upgrade the wiring from the alt to 6ga (maybe 4). I gotta figure out how much of the factory mess can be eliminated since I’m going to use a MS3 pro-mini ecu. Additionally , I don’t know what guys are doing with the unnecessary wires when they do that….. do they just cut away what isn’t necessary?

IDK how many amps the factory alternator is rated at, but I’m confident that it’s not 140. Having had this Ford alternator sitting around prompted me to make it work on my banger. Actually fairly easy to do, I had to fab a couple of pieces of straight bar, to reinforce the mount, fab up a “ Mike-o-matic” belt tensioner, and drill out some small holes bigger. The alternator is actually mounted upside down, but I don’t think it’ll mind. The tensioner is made out of a piece of 1/2” od/almost 3/8” I’d mild steel tubing. I simply tapped the inside of the tube with 3/8” rh/lh taps, and screwed in some chinee rod ends ( that came in a kit for the remarkably low price of 16.99). I “gutted” two spare idler wheels by pressing out the bearings. What you see is that bearing serving to apply the required pressure to tension the belt. I gotta tell ya, I’m pretty happy with the end result. A keen eye will notice a 36-1 trigger wheel, and the slotted bracket where the crank sensor will mount. I used another gutted idler pulley bearing to give the belt the needed clearance to pass by the mount post. So,…. In closing, if you’re like me and believe that the engineers who originally built these overly electrically complicated cars had the sense to apply the k.i.s.s. Method to their designs, they’d have come to me first, and I’d have told them to use a one wire 140 amp ford alternator mounted upside down.🙃 This step brings me damn close to installing the engine back into the bay. Tomorrow I’ll deal with the down pipe, and get the waste gate tied into the down pipe. Once I get that PITA step out of the way, I’ll hoist that heavy MF transmission up on an angle to drain the fluid, and get it up on a work stand so I can remove the VB so as to add a couple of 1/4” spacers Inca couple of valve passages as per Scott’s recommendation, add the PTC modified converter to the combo, and put that complain in.

IDK how many amps the factory alternator is rated at, but I’m confident that it’s not 140. Having had this Ford alternator sitting around prompted me to make it work on my banger. Actually fairly easy to do, I had to fab a couple of pieces of straight bar, to reinforce the mount, fab up a “ Mike-o-matic” belt tensioner, and drill out some small holes bigger. The alternator is actually mounted upside down, but I don’t think it’ll mind. The tensioner is made out of a piece of 1/2” od/almost 3/8” I’d mild steel tubing. I simply tapped the inside of the tube with 3/8” rh/lh taps, and screwed in some chinee rod ends ( that came in a kit for the remarkably low price of 16.99). I “gutted” two spare idler wheels by pressing out the bearings. What you see is that bearing serving to apply the required pressure to tension the belt. I gotta tell ya, I’m pretty happy with the end result. A keen eye will notice a 36-1 trigger wheel, and the slotted bracket where the crank sensor will mount. I used another gutted idler pulley bearing to give the belt the needed clearance to pass by the mount post. So,…. In closing, if you’re like me and believe that the engineers who originally built these overly electrically complicated cars had the sense to apply the k.i.s.s. Method to their designs, they’d have come to me first, and I’d have told them to use a one wire 140 amp ford alternator mounted upside down.🙃

Just checking to be sure; I purchased a “new” head from a shop selling these heads. It’s mechanical and want to check recommended lash for a cold start. hot lash is suppose to be .006 I, and .010 E. I understand things will change once up to temp, so where would be a good start up setting be if I’m doing this cold?

Thanks Kev. I figured that the mechanism is a grease it and let it eat kinda thing. I addded roller bearings to the underside from an old strut mount kit that I had laying around. On top, I just “lubrilated” the nut contact surface and tightened it finger tight. still doesn’t make any sense to me that this is how they did this. 11th hour, last minute. How are we gonna fix this kinda crap.

I think I’ve succeeded

The info is here, just no pictures to help. I’m at the stage where I’m now putting the front of the engine on. I purchased the bsek from dads, but the instructions are vague w/regard to how to properly install the entire kit. I have the guides where they go, and the pump modified, and bolted on, can somebody refer me to an actual thread or video that shows detailed pics so I can put this thing together correctly? Thanks as always.

So, I pulled the mechanism out to clean and re-lube the pivot points , and I’m confused. The entire pivot point of the wiper stub is riding on what exactly? there was a thin rubber “ washer” under the cowl, and a rubber coated steel washer on top held tight by the large nut. Is this it? I cleaned and re-lubed everything but when putting everything back together the driver side is a little sloppy. If I tighten the nut to try and snug the up, it creates too much friction, if I loosen it up even slightly, I can move the wiper stub in the hex hole. Doesn’t it rain in Japan? What kind of 11th hour, rinky-dink band-aid is this?

I just tried to add one. Got told it exceeded the max limit of 121kb, and was dropped. I don’t have a single pic that small… that’s like avatar size or just crap resolution. ive had a Photobucket account since 2012. It has always worked for me. Every time I try to post an update on a web forum and have multiple pics to add to the update, using the web forums internal hosting feature has either limited the number of pics, made me restrict either the size or resolution in order to do the update. not worth the hassle.

Thanks, I’ll do that. I was pretty careful about pushing the ring in using the bottom of the oil ring land as a stop point, but it won’t hurt to try it again using the second ring as a stop point. I do intend to put some boost in the mix, ( 17-20 psi).I wouldn’t have spent the xtra money in the forged pistons otherwise.