Welderwiz

Rich Picked up the head on will call late yesterday............ These people are really neat to deal with!! Thats to say you did a hell of a job setting this up!!! I just wish you could see this place, 10 lbs in a 5lb box!!! Great job Rich, thanx again Mark

Art Please put me down for the rear camber plates as well. I presume the adjustable shocks, you say not for daily driver, are too stiff? What combo do you reccommend for daily driver??? Gotta do the front too, steer me the right way here Art!! Thanx Mark

Art Any time is good for me, im just curious as to how stiff the 450/350 spring rates are for a daily driver? Any chance of getting anything a tad lighter? Can always add a heavier anti sway bar or stiffen the shock adjustment!!! Thanx again for doing this GP Mark

All right Art, twisted my arm hard enough............... Im in!!! Mark

I made my lines front and back in one piece, used 90 degree angle fittings at the transition on the frame then routed same as stock. Works real nice and still able to remove calipers from brackets with out having to disconnect the lines. Just remember that these lines are NOT lifetime hoses, they must be replaced just like the rubber ones!!!

Rob The LM1 is a portable unit not really designed to be left in the car and the AEM unit requires components that are extra in cost resulting in the prices beeing pretty comparable. I'll look into your previous write up and see whats there. Im after a data logging unit that can be left in the car and look like it belongs there such as the PLX or DJ.

The wideband system will only read the A/F ratio very accurately, you will need a tuning device such as Ramchargers translator or an equivalent to do any tuning adjustments. The Dyno Jet system will come with a analog guage which is far more accurate that the Autometer style LED guages. The PLX system has a digital readout on the controller. In order to run the Autometer type narrow band guages on the DJ or PLX requires an adapter......... extra cost! The retail prices of the PLX M500 is $499 and the retail cost of the DJ is $560. Both are data logging units that use the Bosch LSU4 sensor. The M500 is wireless whereas the DJ uses a cable. Both units use 10 samples per second sampling rate only difference is the DJ holds 10 minutes where the PLX holds 60 minutes of log time. Pros and cons to the units......... lets see what prices you can come up with? Mark

I would be interested as well............. also looking into the unit made by Dyno-Jet, the dyno manufacturer. Lots of details to compare........ data logging, samples per second, total time of sampling, etc. Someone care to pick up the ball on this one? Mark

CJ You are VERY correct in that warpage is significant in the "Heat affected zones" as well as the material thickness change areas. 3/8 thick flange for the intake is fine, 1/2 is of no benefit. CNC milling machine can do this flange with one cutter but not very cost efficient as compared to water jet in quantity........ accurate and faster than machining! As far as designing a intake manifold, dont think for a minute that welding tubes together will get the job done............ biggest concern is distance from valve to plenum. This affects the pulse timing that will hinder performance as fast as help it! There are other factors as well. As for machining the flange after welding......... thats the easy part. Mark

Im still willing to put these gaskets in stock only if the response is worth while. So far only a few folks have said they definitely want them after lots of people saying "ya sure" : If you would like to have access to these gaskets please make a commitment so I dont have to eat 2 dozen gaskets ??? Mark

uconn1150 Youve got mail!!!

Art As I look back on the posts of this situation, im thinking the original prob was a an incomplete bleeding of the system. I wasnt aware of the piston size that was beeing used in this situation however it should be functioning with a solid pedal only to change how far it travels or how hard it is to push it (trying to keep it simple here). As for removal of a booster, I stop my big 1964 Plymouth stationwagon with manual discs with no big effort at all! I can lock them up if I want to!!! Apply pressures can be varied by the brake pedal arm length as well as M/C diameter or caliper piston diameter. Most of the variance that you feel means a significant hydraulic pressure difference. Try playing with air brakes some time!!! Air brake pressure increases as you press harder on the pedal whereas hydraulic is almost the same as you increase apply pressure at the pedal. I hope I havent confused anyone here, im just trying to make the other folks reading this understand that brake systems are "systems" not just a mix and match program. Thanx Mark

Oscar The master cyl I mentioned from Mopar is a Mopar Perf part, that means universal application. One would have to change the bolt pattern ( redrill the firewall). Art, is there a reason for wanting to use a booster for this application? It is definitely not necessary to use one and you will get a much better pedal feel without it. I have not pulled a booster off the firewall of these cars but cant imagine the reinforcement plate beeing too small to re-drill for a master cyl only application. If everyone wants a booster, then make it easy on yourselves and just get a package and mount it in the trunk area!!! No different than under the floor or remote like trucks use. I really think we are making this more difficult than need be.............. I will do some number crunching on Saturday and come up with a cylinder bore requirement, then its up to you folks which cylinder you like the best. Mark

Oscar With regards to the calipers, I didnt know they were 4 piston units, therefore you are correct about needing more fluid per pedal stroke. The fact that the hot rod shop that "bores out" the master ??? The factories (Bendix, Raybestos, etc.) use the same cylinder castings for numerous applications, but change the bore size! That hot rod shop you mention is just swapping part numbers based on experience! Like I said, same casting/different bore/different part number. The car doesnt care what the master looks like or what it comes from, so lets look at bore size in relation to what we started with. Someone mentioned 15/16, that is available from Mopar perf in the same size with increased travel/fluid displacement. It is also available in 1" and I think 1 1/16" as well. They are a plastic reservoir with a aluminum body. You can also get a similar thing in a For or Chevy iron housing unit. Keep in mind now that adjustable proportioning valves are not going to change anything but front to rear bias. No matter what route we go here, you are still going to have to form brake lines and re-engineer some things. Sorry guys, my mind is going faster than the fingers can type!!! I hope I am making sense to someone? Adapter plates to mount a master are the easy part. I havent paid that much attention to the stock firewall as it may have enough "meat" in it to just re-drill the bolt pattern of a new master!! Now we have the push rod dilemma!!! Can we build a better car than Mitsu- of course! Can we build 500,000 of them......................... NOT!!! If there are any of you folks that will attend the SO Cal meet on the 25th, I would enjoy discussing this subject and trying to iron out the details. The first version of these type operations are always challenging!!! Mark

The best option to go with would be to eliminate the booster all together as it isnt necessary. The next thing you need to understand is that your system is closed, therefore volume is mostly fixed! This means that the pistons at the caliper end only moves a maximum of .030 of an inch!!! Larger M/C bore means softer pedal feel with more fluid flow/piston travel. Likewise a smaller M/C bore is firmer feel with less fluid flow/piston travel. Im not familiar with the kit Oscar supplied however I would be able to tell you what is needed for a master if you can tell me what caliper piston size and number of pistons per caliper you are using. Understand that pedal feel varies by driver comfort and how touchy you like the pedal. Furthermore, if you dont have "steel braid " hoses on the car by now, you have already missed the boat for good feeling brakes!!! I have designed many race and street rod brake systems and can tell you it is a very sensitive area to experiment with especially on a street driven car due to liability reasons. So please guys, be carefull with what you are doing............... get in a accident with modded brakes and it is automatically your fault!!! Lawyers are wonderfull predators!!! Mark PS: Dont use a bored or modded master cylinder Also, the "hydro-boost" system that ties in with the power steering is not a cost effective system or very well suited to a Quest

carpethead10 Id love to help out here but the feedback here is not real promising enough for me to make the minimum purchase. Im willing to go out on a limb but not this deep! I need to see some feedback from other buyers to make this work............... Lets see what happens this week Mark

I will make the gaskets to order however I will not be stocking them. Mark PS: Im almost finished with your V6 gaskets, Metric man!!! Been long enough?

FURTHER UPDATE: After talking to the warehouse today, they are saying the Metalmix head gasket is expected in the first week of April : The price for the gasket will be special at $58.00 shipped 8). Their complete set is the only way to get every gasket but you can not get it with the Metalmix . Please give me some feed back from you engine builders as to the quality and pricing of the other products out there. Ive never had a failure from a Fel-Pro product but have never used one on a G54B. Maybe we will only use the head gasket and go Fel Pro on the rest, its definitely cheaper. Help me out here guys and gals ??? ??? ??? Thanx Mark

Shawn The complete turbo 4G63T set is only available in a Fibermax head gasket set. The SOHC 4G63 is multi layer steel shim. Any way, the full set runs $180 plus shipping. AJusa is proud of their products and they do charge accordingly. Thanx for the inquiry Mark

In response to THE questions: Shawn:4g63 complete, head and conversion sets are available. They do not yet offer a Metalmix head gasket however. PM me the year and specifics and I can give you the correct prices. backslider:Full set comes with standard HD head gasket at $115.00. Im still trying to get the full set with the Metalmix head gasket. I will call again on Monday. Metric-man: A conversion set consists of all the bottom end gaskets and seals ie- pan, timing cover,water pump, crank seals (front & rear) etc. Valve stem seal set runs $16 and pan gasket is $13.25. Conversion set runs $33.50. I never recieved a call back last week from the sales rep, as he covers the 3 southwestern states, and was not available. I will definitely call again on Monday. This is taking more time than we all expected but keep in mind we are not dealing with a domestic corp. Prices are also very different from Fel-Pro and such. Thanx again for all your patience.........I will come through!!! Mark

Glad to see the interest in the gasket products. I have a call into the sales manager as there is a small discrepancy in the price sheet listing versus what I was told. I will call him again tommorrow as they tend not to return calls very quickly. Prices will be forthcoming by the weekend as well as all your questions answered. Thanx All Mark

Thanks to Kelly who found the connection I am now a distributor for Metalmix head gaskets 8) 8) 8). I have opened an account with AJUSA and am awaiting final details of pricing and a known 2 week backorder for the head gaskets. I am in no way attempting to oust Chip on this program but it has taken a long time as many of you know to put this together. I will have access to all of their products including the hydraulic lifters as well as full line of gaskets. I need to know if you folks would need entire head sets and conversion sets or just the head gaskets? Please give me some feedback as I will be putting in my first order shortly. Prices will be posted by the end of this week. I will also have the eclipse and 3000gt gaskets as well. Please dont forget to thank Kelly for finding the "right guy" to hook me up!!! Mark

I had my brake hoses made to eliminate the 2 piece design. They worked out great and were not expensive. The problem is not many shops will make "brake" hoses because of "Liability". If there are enough people that want them .......... then I'll get them done. Lets see how many people are interested? Mark

Rob If UL's car has been lowered using a coil over arrangement, then the weights can be "jacked " to make it balanced. If it is lowered or not lowered with stock type struts, then either the chassis is already "jacked" or "bent" and other probs exist. This shows you that weight distribution is very critical but adjustable and that big anti-roll bars will mask an ill-handling chassis. Maybe I should give a chassis tuning class via the internet ;D ;D ;D. The front weight imbalance has me questioning the front frame section for squareness - has it ever been hit? Mark

Jeff Most any race car shop would have them, and might just do the job at a reasonable price. Im not aware of any place that would rent out something like that. The scales dont have to be electronic, I have used grain scales for the sprint cars I used to wrench on. You might let your fingers do the walking on this one. I wish I still had access to the electronic scales I used to use, my friend moved away. Mark