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Everything posted by Squrlsquash
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$20** - Custom Clutch Pedal Slop Correction
Squrlsquash replied to Squrlsquash's topic in Parts for sale
I will make a new posting for the seat brackets I made shortly in the meantime, tell all your friends the benefits of a clutch pedal clevis pin that isn't floppy -
$20** - Custom Clutch Pedal Slop Correction
Squrlsquash replied to Squrlsquash's topic in Parts for sale
got your payment mt, will be in the mail on monday let me know how it works only been able to test fit on my own car so far maly, is it incentive to buy one if i mention that funds go towards rebuilding my spare motor with your carb stuff? thanks gentlemen, ive also got adapters i made to put a sparco seat ontop of our stock sliders as well as other ideas bangin around if you've got ideas for parts we need let me know, i do this stuff for fun anyways while studying engineering also, here's the final product http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_7992_zps7a66f689.jpg -
looks like an old lancia
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$20** - Custom Clutch Pedal Slop Correction
Squrlsquash replied to Squrlsquash's topic in Parts for sale
$10 per clevis pin - Shipped (US) (w/ two washers and clip pin) You may send payment (AS A GIFT) via paypal (I would have to adjust prices to cover paypal fees otherwise) Aaronwork4@gmail.com Include your sqc name, as well as your Name & Shipping Address in the Payment Note --PM me if you purchase one so i make sure to check paypal & send it out-- Thanks -
$20** - Custom Clutch Pedal Slop Correction
Squrlsquash replied to Squrlsquash's topic in Parts for sale
Interest at $10 a pop? (Shipped within US) Have 4 ready to go, deciding whether to make more or not -
my car dies after boosting follow by pressing brakes?!
Squrlsquash replied to prototype78's topic in Virtual Mechanic
someone smarter should chime in, but to me it sounds like an issue with the brake booster vacuum system maybe the one-way valve that stops boost from getting into the vac booster is having issues -
$20** - Custom Clutch Pedal Slop Correction
Squrlsquash replied to Squrlsquash's topic in Parts for sale
evolution taking place... http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/25014811-66fe-43b0-8ecb-223b4c6befec_zpsdca35e7f.jpg Was thinking about an upsized pin to fix the issues with the master/pedal arm, then i thought of a pressed in sleeve or something - oversize the hole and sleeve it back to original diameter. in the meantime, im keeping it simple until there's interest & funding for otherwise My pin made a big difference on it's own, and planning to swap the clutch cylinder shortly which should take care of the rest. p.s. comes with two washers (one either side of the pin), to prevent one of the master cylinder arms from wearing in the gap right next to the bolt head -
Takes big ball bearings to drive a mid engine 50 year old car to the limit of grip in the rain just proof that lost of traction makes racing better One of the reasons I say we should cover F1 tracks with oil
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NEW INFO! http://www.starquest...40#entry1463370 LAST PAGE-- BEARING KIT COMPLETED GET RID OF PEDAL SLOP ONCE AND FOR ALL Does your Starquest's clutch clevis pin look like this? http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_6894_zps22839a99.jpg http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_7979_zps49cd782f.jpg http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/D8CCB1DD-47E2-4766-B1FE-06900C036691_zpsh5qrfqd0.jpg I am selling drop in replacements pins made from 12.9 grade shoulder bolts as well as kits to upsize the holes and bring them back to stock size with graphite lined bearings They are cut to size, Hole drilled for clip pin, Holes chamfered, and polished with 2000 grit sandpaper -New prices: (shipped to lower 48) $10 for stock sized replacement pin $20 for kit (includes pin, bearings, and drill bit) Payments to: Aaronwork4@gmail.com
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299mph digital speedometer - 83 Starion limited to 85mph?
Squrlsquash replied to 83stariontravis's topic in Flatbody Mechanic
i recently watched a documentary called back to the future, all cars are limited to 88 otherwise the time space continuum gets messed up -
you can change the oil pump and delete balance shafts with the block in the car, just need to remove the timing cover, radiator, and anything else in the way
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You switched from a heavier weight oil to a lighter weight one, a drop in oil pressure is to be expected. you did or did not have this problem before you switched?
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Turned engine over a few more times and the marks all lined up like the picture in the service manual which i believe is TDC cyl 1 how do i line up the distributor? do i line up the dimple in the gear with the mark on the shaft?
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its the plastic connector on the back of the instrument cluster (right behind the speedo) takes some fiddling to get it loose, especially when they've not been removed before - try not to force it or break other stuff while your'e back there keep track of what screws go where as you take the cluster apart Most likely the speedo cable needs to be replaced (runs from the back of the transmission under the car, through firewall, into the back of the speedo. follow the path of the one you're removing, will make routing it easier - zip ties to keep in place
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ive got the same one they cost something like $92 ish new feels solid and looks gewd - hard to reach turn signals but meh
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There is no timing mark on the crank gear... i have another crank gear that does have the mark, should i swap the gears out? or just put a mark in the same place on the un-marked gear? To do that id have to pull the oil pump crank gear. can it be pulled and reinstalled without removing the oil pump?
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same style boost controller from jeremy's top gear starion. just a switch between regular boost pressure and a bleed valve to trick the wastegate? i'll take the misc engine bits pm'd
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stock or oversize bearings? interested in engine bits and shift knob
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Okay, no more mr. nice guy i want this done, and done right can i set the timing marks without taking off the oil pump gear? should i pop the cam gear off to line up the chain, then rotate the crank/cam to match? i'll be back at it tomorrow, any tips would be helpful http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/timingbits_zps14eb388e.jpg
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Would the valves hit the pistons if it was off a tooth? turns over fine without binding Otherwise i have to pull the timing cover to reset the chain any problem with putting it in gear to hold the crank and pulling the crank bolt?
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pulled the head, used a zip tie to pull up the chain slack and don't believe the crank gear could have jumped a tooth dark yellow staining on the spark plugs and nice wet deposits on the combustion chamber usually means burning some oil? probably just because i haven't done any long trips with it yet, might just be granny syndrome... valve seals looked dry, but there was some oil/fuel on the pistons my plan is to pop it together and do some serious driving to break the deposits loose sound good?
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Unrelated Anyone know where to pick up tach signal and 12v switched on the instrument panel? cant find a useful pinout and have a ways to go before i can start her up and poke around with a multimeter http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_7214_zps79d407ea.jpg
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I'm interested, will be in bay area shortly how close are you to cal poly?
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FIRST AND LAST POST ARE CURRENT ONLY Looking for the following: -ETACS - Working order -4bolt CV Joints in working order (boot condition doesnt matter, joint condition does) (individual or pair) Prices shipped to 92130
