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Squrlsquash

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Everything posted by Squrlsquash

  1. Squrlsquash
    also, headlights popped up, they turn on and off but wont go down what should i look into?
  2. Squrlsquash
    Found the first 10 amp dead, replaced and radio&interior lights work now I am reading a .019 amp draw across the battery when nothing is turned on. I unplugged all the positive cables except the one going to the starter and it continued to draw .019 amps Any ideas?
  3. Squrlsquash
    Where does power to the interior come from? got headlights tails and whatnot to work- but radio and instrument panel wont light up any thoughts are helpful, thanks
  4. Squrlsquash
    In stock ready to go, specify what you want in the paypal note along with your name & address Tell your friends! sloppy clutches is bad clutches
  5. Squrlsquash
    http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/bearing_zps50a93f3f.jpg As of now i offer two options to fix your clutch pedal slop Stock size replacement pin $15 (no modification needed) Stock size replacement pin with bearing $20 (requires drilling pedal & clutch master arm to M12) This sleeve bearing will upsize the stock pin to fit a drilled up pedal + master cylinder. when wear becomes present on the sleeve, you can replace it (please forgive price change, I was losing money at $10)
  6. Squrlsquash
    A note from the producer: I know this bearing will still have the clutch pedal and master on the same rotating surface but it is a replaceable sleeve, This bearing should take the abuse and be easily replaced. I will order some flanged bearings, cut them short, and have the flange against the clutch pedal and pointed outwards on each side of the master, so each component is rotating with its own bearing against the pin. however, the sleeve pin will have to be cut short enough to fit between the two, i see many hours cutting these things with a hobby saw in my future. I need to make some sales before any further development, (this batch of bearings cost me $30... small batches are WAY more expensive than buying by the 1000's) Even with the later developed product, the same pin will be used (swap to my stock pin now and be ready to updrill + get rid of slop for good later!) the same M12 OD will be used (upgrade with the current sleeve bearing setup now and be ready to upgrade to a setup with a bearing on each arm. Point is- i need to know if there's interest or not, so put your money where your mouth is, and vote with your cash I need to recoup losses before spending more to continue improvements Thanks for your interest, suggestions, and patronage. -Aaron
  7. Squrlsquash
    sent yesterday, questsale. Bearings still on their way to me, How do you prefer the kit to be sold? as a DIY kit with a drill bit? or mail your pedal to me and I drill + put it together then send it back
  8. Squrlsquash
    nrg suede deep dish pizza something or other took alot of research to find one that didnt look like crap (in the sub $100 range)
  9. Squrlsquash
    i did it, just had to file down the metal bezel on the gauge a bit to allow the clear plastic cover to screw back onto the instrument panel tep doesn't have a write-up, just a picture http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/photo_zps815f7bc1.jpg
  10. Squrlsquash
    found one that will work just ordered a bunch to test them out bearings on the way gentlemen, only have to drill to M12 and will retain stock m10 pin size lets make this happen so sloppy clutches are a thing of the past
  11. Squrlsquash
    M11 might not be enough to get rid of the "egged" holes, 1 or 2 mm wont make a difference, pedal has plenty of meat I'll hit up my machine hardware shop this week, searching online is fruitless if you don't know exactly what to search for I will find or order a bunch of bearings to figure out something that works- a spare clutch pedal + clutch master would be great if someone's got one
  12. Squrlsquash
    issue is finding the part for the job - ive come up with nothing closer after hours of searching online is the consensus that the majority is only interested if the bearing route is pursued?
  13. Squrlsquash
    The linked bearing is 12mm in length, and has no flange (will fall out) also, only lists OD, ID not listed Need to find one with a 12mm (or 11mm) OD and a 10mm ID so the stock pin size can be kept, with a flange, and a length of 3-5 mm It has to be short enough to put one through the pedal, and have one in each side of the clutch master I welcome help finding such a part, since I've had no luck thus far. In the meantime, i have stock replacements that are polished hardened steel, which will get rid of some slop and prevent further wear. still $10 each --(a pin you will need to replace even if you decide to upgrade with bearings)-- I also have upsized pins that require drilling to M12 through the pedal and clutch master. Having a pin with a hardened, machined, and polished surface should take care of most of the wear issues Upsized pins are $15 each (parts to make are more expensive) Ordering info in the first post
  14. Squrlsquash
    where would i post that question if i cant make new threads on newb forums nor can i start one in the electrical forums
  15. Squrlsquash
    6 stock replacement pins ready to go ($10 each) I have 1 upsized pin made, cant test fit without a pedal. seems there is plenty of meat to drill out on the master and the pedal itself. I may try to find a standard size thats less of an extreme difference than one size up metric- but then it depends how far you need to drill to get rid of ovaled holes
  16. Squrlsquash
    i just need functioning indicators, what happens to the stock system? someone mentioned a thread on how to fix them?
  17. Squrlsquash
    I've heard of swapping to an el-12 flasher for the indicators, correct? what do i switch the hazard flasher to? and what bulbs do i swap in? thanks
  18. Squrlsquash
    FIRST AND LAST POST ARE CURRENT ONLY Looking for: -extra 4 and 6 bolt CV axles -Front roll bar bushing mounts (metal band that bolts anti roll bar to the frame) Not sure where to post dumb questions- My indicators would light up then stay lit and i could watch volt meter drop quickly Hazard flashers blinked but also made voltmeter drop on each click I replaced flasher unit and now the indicators flash but drop voltage, they start blinking quickly then blink slower and slower Is this dirty terminals? short? where should i start? thanks -Aaron
  19. Squrlsquash
    If you look at the pics i posted of my nissan's clutch pedal, there is a metal sleeve that is pressed into the hole through the pedal arm looking into that for our pedal- part of the modification fix i'm working on
  20. Squrlsquash
    I'll have an update tomorrow
  21. Squrlsquash
    I mocked up the process on my nissan's clutch pedal + master cylinder http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_8031_zpsda2e0f57.jpg pretend the little one is our stock pin http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_8035_zps430bee23.jpg Drill the pedal 1 size up for new pin http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_8037_zps24a67ee5.jpg Then drill and size up the master cylinder arm http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_8039_zps19c58816.jpg I think the best way is to send me the pedal without a clutch master cylinder and I will modify a new cylinder & your pedal, then ship it back dry so there are no brake fluid leaks en route Any issues with including an Exedy oem replacement cylinder? Are there other ones that work better? Let me know what clutch master cylinder you would want in this kit. Just finished finals, have the time to make this happen right now if there is interest. Thanks Aaron
  22. Squrlsquash
    The new pin will only take away the slop created by the worn out pin- if the pin is worn the same as the pedal, then it would get rid of the pin's half of the slop. It seems there is interest in a more permanent solution, so i will make more stock replacement pins, as well as the larger size upgrade. Need the parts to test- will buy a pedal assembly if anyone has an extra
  23. Squrlsquash
    First two are sent! more ready to go p.s. Anyone have an extra clutch pedal -or- blown clutch master cylinders? I'm thinking about an exchange program where i up-size the holes on the pedal arm - need to test it. let me know what you've got - and if this is a service you would want
  24. Squrlsquash
    its certainly part of the problem, but the pin and master cylinder are the easiest worn parts to change. fixing the pedal issue would mean drilling an upsized hole through the pedal arm and clutch cylinder- then using a larger clevis pin a kit which i am working on logistics for. it would require you to send me your clutch pedal assembly - i would drill the pedal, install a new clutch master (or re-use yours if you want), then make the upsized pin to fit it. If there is interest in such a service i will make it happen - perhaps solving floppy clutches once and for all
  25. Squrlsquash
    I centerpunched it and drilled through from the back side. Used a wider bit to get rid of the shoulder and a smaller one to drill through the center. Once the drill bit grabs it turns it out the front
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