Jump to content

Squrlsquash

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    365

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Squrlsquash

  1. Squrlsquash
    Last call, someone has to have one of these sitting on a spare cat out there
  2. Squrlsquash
    http://www.ebay.com....=item2ec1b3d3ff http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MITSUBISHI-PAJERO-4D56-2-5-DIESEL-EXHAUST-ROLLER-ROCKER-/151255228239?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2337839f4f
  3. Squrlsquash
    need one asap to get my spare cat on car would be shipped to 92130, will pay for quick shipping let me know, thanks (also need front sway bar brackets... not as urgent)
  4. Squrlsquash
    haven't tried, but they look like the same fittings and hose as the tep ones just these are meant to use the hard lines around the shock, instead of 1 piece like theirs
  5. Squrlsquash
    Rockers brake pads turbo feed line oil seals
  6. Squrlsquash
    Front sway bar brackets that bolt the bushings to the frame Are the mounts the same for shp/non shp?
  7. Squrlsquash
    Flanged bearings have arrived only waiting on a clutch pedal for testing, then finishing touches As of now, the DIY kit will include 12.9 grade polished clevis pin- with clip pin m12 drill bit 3 bearings- one for the pedal arm, two for the clutch master cylinder The Mail-In option is to remove your clutch pedal + clutch master cylinder and send them to me it will return with the pin, bearings, and a brand new (or rebuilt) clutch master cylinder Once test fitting is complete I will determine the prices for each option Stay tuned P.S. Pressed a bearing through some steel i had, pin fits like a glove, no slop whatsoever. Inside of the bearing is graphite lined, the polished pin spins effortlessly
  8. Squrlsquash
    oil filter housing and oil pump to 92130 unknown condition $15?
  9. Squrlsquash
    Yes, one of my rocker sets have the lifter screws, and the other does not. Has casting marks, not been cut off.
  10. Squrlsquash
    Posted 07 October 2013 - 05:45 AM Primary Fuel Injector Wires: Yellow/White and Yellow/Black. Secondary Fuel Injector Wires: Yellow/Green and Yellow/Blue. The Yellow/White wire from the Primary Fuel Injector goes to a resistor. The Yellow/Black wire from the Primary Fuel Injector goes to no. 60 pin at the ECU. The Yellow/Green wire from the Secondary Fuel Injector goes to the same resistor that the Yellow/White wire from the Primary Fuel Injector does. The Yellow/Blue wire from the Secondary Fuel Injector goes to no. 62 pin at the ECU. Hope this helps you in installing new Fuel Injector Clips. Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ My car ran and passed smog with its current injector pigtail setup. however my primary injector has two yellow/green wires and secondary has a yellow/white and yellow/black wires did the wire colors change? (mines an 87) can anyone give some insight? i'd like to do the pigtails right, but not sure how to make sure they are wired properly (two yellow/greens doesn't seem right)
  11. Squrlsquash
    anybody have an extra clutch pedal or clutch master cylinder (busted is fine)? wont be able to do this + take pics on my own car until after I pass smog willing to buy or give a deal on bearing kit for a pedal assembly.
  12. Squrlsquash
    I believe this is the issue, however the factory wires are barely long enough for the pigtails to reach the injectors as is. Soldering a new length of copper wire isn't an issue since it is the same metal as the factory wire, correct?
  13. Squrlsquash
    I don't believe the injector pigtails are in the proper orientation, previous owner buggered up everything he touched... no trust left in his handywork. i think gig wrote it, still googling with no luck yet
  14. Squrlsquash
    Okay, -will solder connectors for the O2 sensor -fill tank with fresh gas -solder new injector pigtails (anyone have that writeup that describes what wire colors go to which injectors?) engine didn't have a stumble like this last time it ran, but if the above doesn't help i will test the tps (anyone have link for a writeup for bench testing?) thanks -Aaron
  15. Squrlsquash
    the sleeve bearings work great, but dont allow rotation on the outside. which means they work but only for pressing into each component individually easiest way to make this work is to drill the pedal to m12 (i have a bulk of m12 drill bits now) press/hammer in sleeve bearing (once i cut them in half) then drill the clutch master cylinder and place a flanged bearing through each side once i have the flanged bearings i will post pics of how it works- this will fix the problem entirely, no wear on anything but the bearing and the pin. bearing is graphite coated and oil impregnated (on the inside), and my pins are machined smooth. one time fix that wont need parts replaced. stock replacements still on sale + used with the bearing setups stay tuned
  16. Squrlsquash
    also, it appears there is an oil leak from the back of the head (top area) where that round oil seal is. able to replace without removing the head? gas is nearly 2 years old from california... probably turned into useless goo by now could that cause the stumble issue? not much experience with cars that have sat
  17. Squrlsquash
    found the connector, buried behind the relay tree hooked it up- got 14.5 volts while running, charging system is working good Now that its running, when I press accelerator a little it stumbles and wants to quit- if i press it harder it revs okay when i let go it goes back to idle where should i look first? -I recently rewired o2 sensor with a spade plug, okay? or should i straight solder the wires together? -Injector connectors worked okay last time it was running, but i had a hard time getting solder to stick to the factory harness, maybe some corrosion built up there? I have a new set of the bosch ones with the easy disconnect button, if i put those on, any tips for soldering to the old wires?
  18. Squrlsquash
    so, the white/yellow wire is connected at the alternator, but is not connected to anything on the battery side of the harness. My car has been hacked up, and i haven't seen one that's properly wired before- and cant find its matching connector Anyone have a pic of the connector it plugs into, or its location? You stated that +12v at each of the 3 wires into the alternator is required? even the white/yellow? thanks for help, frantically trying to fix so i can get this heap smogged again. Aaron
  19. Squrlsquash
    no fusible link between the alternator output and the battery, ordering one now, but that wouldn't cause it not to charge. only thing not plugged in on the charge harness is this little white wire with a blue connector could it be the voltage regulators signal wire? or something else that could cause this? http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/photo2_zps682bea22.jpg
  20. Squrlsquash
    Got oil pressure, got the car running and got the timing set. Now i'm back to the same problem I had before, alternator isn't charging the battery It had the problem with the alternator on the car when i bought it, i tried another one, then bought a new reman unit and no change. Where should i look first?
  21. Squrlsquash
    Got pressure, pulled the turbo feed line off and cranked till oil came out. Hooked it all back together and got 50 psi thanks for the advice I pulled the turbo feed line and pumped oil into it and let it sit, maybe that helped to feed the pump, or just create enough back pressure to help with suction from the pan. Crank with the line off until oil comes out, then put it all together and crank more, should see pressure build. Useful info for anyone with seized block oil plugs
  22. Squrlsquash
    Because of the orientation of the injectors, its possible the two cylinders closer to the idle injector would get less fuel from the main injector. But maybe it won't make a big difference, with tb injectors it would be like turning a carburetor sideways? I think i'd prefer to keep the injectors where they are and cut the inlet before the injectors and weld on a smooth bend towards the front of the car to get the same intercooler pipe routing
  23. Squrlsquash
    -Yes there is oil in the pan -O-ring not an issue (gasket type pickup) -No sludge, fresh oil Will unhook oil line to turbo and crank to see if the air gets bled out. My other last ditch effort idea was to pull the pan + pickup tube and fill with vasolene Thanks
  24. Squrlsquash
    Go to last post Last post is current Got oil pressure, got the car running and got the timing set. Got the alternator charging Car stumbles if i give any gas above idle, runs fine if i let go of accelerator Where should i look first? Thanks in advance -Aaron
  25. Squrlsquash
    Flywheel, clutch, and PP Will pm
×
×
  • Create New...