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Squrlsquash

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Everything posted by Squrlsquash

  1. Ah cool, doesn't look like there's much interest in buying a kit for these Think theres any market for putting these together for the oil / fuel / coolant lines to replace the banjos? debating whether i should make extra sets of these as i replace mine The banjo gaskets from randy fit just fine on the fitting adapters for the cooler and oil filter housing Will go with where you got yours next time, same prices, just the black makes it look so much less obvious to cops and smog gremlins than the flashy blue and red
  2. yeah just bought the hose as two 3" lengths and put the fittings on, annoying to get all the metal braids to cooperate just bought a set of the banjo washers from randy, will see how they work with the different fittings tomorrow
  3. ah very nice write-up, thought i was being snazzy and useful wish i saw yours before putting mine together, they look way better in black, much less conspicuous... think i could do anything to them with paint? did you use a set of oil banjo o-rings for the connectors at the filter housing? what i figured would need to be there to seal up with the non banjo fitting strange that it didnt come up with i searched for braided oil lines
  4. Anybody interested in a kit for braided oil cooler lines? Put together a set at a hardware surplus shop the other day and they look pretty good Not sure on the availability of the parts, but if anybody wants one made i can put it together and ship for $125 <- parts are about 115 All high performance earls plumbing parts, and 3/8 (6an?) braided hose Includes fitting for 6mm (previously banjo fittings) in/out on the oil filter housing as well as the oil cooler - straight hose connectors for the filter housing side, and 90 degree ones for the cooler side (to clear hood) Can put together for any oil lines, also made one for remotely installing my electric oil pressure sending unit Hit me up if there's any interest, have no problem putting kits together and shipping at cost Thanks Aaron will post a picture after install is done Gaskets! one set of Randy's oil cooler banjo fitting gaskets will be needed to install correctly, my oem gaskets are long gone just one set, since its not a banjo fitting, there is no need to have one on each side
  5. -i purchased the motor for $600 but it had been sitting for a few years, the previous owner was unsure of some specifics, but said 10:1 bored to .30 :/ waiting to hear back with the rest of the paperwork on the build -i did take a good look at the engine. stock crank and rods but pistons are new (as seen from underneath) and all new seals, new jet valve removed head, new bearings, and cleaned everything else. -as far as i was told, the engine ran fine in the truck and had 4000ish miles since rebuild -the old motor needs to be pulled because i was a tool and didnt find the right tool to get the pipe plug out to prime the oil system. drilled + used extractor, but the tip broke inside the plug. anything i do will just put hardened metal shavings into oil gallery -but the old motor had 100k+ on it and was run pretty hard (by previous owner) with a manual boost controller at nearly 14 lbs of boost, when the engine wasn't running right, timing chain was slapping about because the guides werent bolted in right, one had sheared and one was just flat out missing (not in oil pan) all sorts of non-sense like this with every area of the car ive worked on, <- should have just bought something that was driving. But because i'm an idiot, i bought the car with the massive wheel arches that get me all excited ^experience had with very first conquest purchase (second car total) about 6 mo. ago, only driven once since then (when engine sounded like it was eating itself)
  6. have not done a complete rebuild on the starion engine myself yet- but i have ideas on a couple parts balance shaft elimination kit + complete cam timing kit from http://www.enginemachineservice.com/conquest.html (probably good to have rotating assembly balanced during rebuild too keep vibrations under control) he sells pistons, rings and whatnot as well also complete top and bottom gasket sets sells all the engine parts you mention as far as i know and you should probably do the oil pump while there not sure you can really get decent parts and do good engine work on the cheap. good luck Aaron
  7. -e85 as in ethanol mixed fuels? not particularly interested in running an eco sports car - closest station to me is el cajon, about 20 miles -i do plan to run a wideband 02 to keep tabs on whats up http://wbo2.com/ anyone use one of these guys' sensors? seen em on MCM, don't mind building it to save some cash -so with 10:1 pistons, i shouldn't look into bumping up the boost, or switching turbos - sort of figured hopefully i can rebuild the old engine eventually, or switch pistons or something. not sure yet but with higher comp and the relatively low stock boost, i should expect gains slightly similar to stock engine specs with higher boost, no? also, power band wise, i was told with the higher comp and stock turbo that the engine was built for torque (for the truck it was in) will there be any top end to speak of? thanks Aaron
  8. Was getting fed up with trying to get my engine running, finally was about to start it and ran into problems priming the oil system. I need a car running, and since my 300zx has just had the engine tore down, i figured the Starion would be the better option. Found a fully rebuilt engine with all new insides with only 4000 miles on it - problem is it was originally built for a monturbo application and has 10:1 weisco pistons The engine itself is said to run fine and not knock with a stock turbo What problems do you see with running this engine with 10:1 compression ratio pistons on my starion? This would limit performance capabilities vs running 7 or 8 :1 pistons, no? Thoughts are appreciated thanks Aaron
  9. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MELLING-117S-Oil-Pump-Pick-Up-Tube-Screen-/160788700771?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1983%7CModel%3AStarion&hash=item256fc0de63&vxp=mtr found the part, manufactured by melling or some such company just checked the orientation and should resolve issues ^ did check the links, the b2600 on oil pumps was beneficial ... glossed over the parts where they were listing part numbers thanks
  10. ah, so it would have to be an 83 starion engine to have the oil feed come through the block the pickup tube on there now routes the pickup to the back of the pan, as apposed to the front, which would be the only difference besides the drain pan <- both of which would need swapped to transplant engine to montero I have the pan off my engine, just need to find an 83 starion/conquest pickup tube + gasket Any ideas gentlemen?
  11. does anyone know what year starion/conquests: had the pickup from the bottom of the pump? -and- which had the pickup between cyl 2 & 3? or do all starion / conquests use the oring pickup from the pump itself? does that mean i have a montero block?
  12. Disastical- A Disaster and a Debacle Well not a disaster, but here is my situation: I have an 87 Conquest TSI which for reasons too painful to type out, needs a different engine in the meantime. Then, i found one, a Starion (not sure of year) engine that was fully built to create a turbo Montero - or turbotero? (has 10:1 pistons, but beggars cant be choosars) The Montero has the deep bit of the oil pan at the back, as apposed to at the front as in a Starion/Conquest As well, the new engine has the oil pickup between cyl 2 and 3 - instead of right at the bottom of the oil pump (as in my conquest's) Is this how certain model years had the oil pump configured? Did some investigating... with hammers, and see that the pickup tube uses a gasket instead of the o-ring. Need to figure out a pickup tube that will fit into the slot, and will go over to the front of the pan to the baffle Thanks! trying to post pics but cant figure it out. <- newbie afterall
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