nightwalkerancestery

You can make the rollers from a v6 caravan or 1.5l Mirage workwell. Don't know if I've ever seen them as mechsnicals though. But by the time you make the mods to get them to work, you might as well just locate some down under and call it done. - Charles

Caravan head. LeBaron head. Early Starion head. That's about the best list I know of. - Charles

I know it has a small decrease right at the turbo, but it won't hurt the performance. There's really no other way to make it 3" with how the exhaust housing is and the location of the studs without making each edge super thin. Yeah, it's possible, but would it really be worth the chance of blown gaskets for a gain that you really won't notice? Nah. The 1" length of 2.75" before it changes to 3" won't be noticeable. I was under the impression Mookeh's products were from the States. Honestly, I'm not all against China products. Just a little weary with their metals on some things. With that being the case, I may just go ahead and give it a shot. If it's the same construction and origin, then it should be sturdy enough to at least last a good while. Thanks for the feedback! - Charles

The only reason I got titanium is because of its flame retardant properties. The one by thermal zero will work fine but for most with the fiberglass cores, just make sure not to let oil get on them. They can cause some nasty fires. - Charles

Aaaaaaand another bump. My car needs a pretty new rear decoration that lights up for bling effect! - Charles

I figured they were just replicas made from cheaper metals in China. They look identical to me, but it's not his screenname. So, I wasn't sure. So, you're positive this is Mookeh's DP just sold by someone else or him under a different SN? Also, I heard some questioning years ago the durability of the flex section because it's at the DP vs the B (mid) pipe. Anyone had issues with the flex wearing prematurely? Thanks for the help. - Charles

As many may know, Mookeh doesn't sell the downpipe for our cars anymore. I'm on the fence about trying out one of the eBay pipes. I asked about details on metal type, metal origins, warranty on welds, etc. I'm between this and having my buddy weld together a similar stainless down but it'd be about the same price if not a bit more. Anyone had experience with these downpipes? Anything to vouch for the quality of them?I know the mani's on eBay are junk, but haven't heard much about their down pipes. http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=181469163836&alt=web - Charles

I would recommend getting a Titanium blanket. I got one for $30 from China for a GT35 turbo (I think that was the size) and I have to say it's much better quality than I expected. Seams to look strong and does an awesome job retaining heat. Also, much more resistant to direct flame combustion. - Charles

Why do you have to be at the other end of the country?! GLWS - Charles

I'll second the links if redcat doesn't take them. -Charles

bumpidy

Very clean car. Some things from description don't really make sense to me. At least, not enough sense to warrant 12.5k for it. My first question is, why do all of that work to the car and use the stock bottom end? With how far they went into it, it wouldn't have been anything to throw in some forged pistons and get everything balanced and strengthened. It looks like everything was done pretty well, but I don't see how it warrants the 12.6k pricetag. lol Some people fail to realize that even on rare cars, there's still a limit to how much they're worth. Someone will buy it. Just not right away. - Charles

Nice setup! You're giving me more ideas on how to prolong my restore. Hahah. Good to see you on here Brian. Haven't seen you in a while. Free bump for an awesome deal! - Charles

Someone has to have a good Driver's Starion tail. Anyone? Help make my starion look pretty again! - Charles

Best way to search on here... Go to Google and type in "site:starquestclub.com (your question/member) For 4cyl You'd type "site:starquestclub.com 4cylfury" and all you need is somewhere he posted to get to his profile - Charles

Bump!

Got some starion tails? Muy Interested! - Charles

I've never really spoken to you directly but you've greatly helped me throughout my many years in this community and you've shared your vast, honest knowledge. I'll keep you in my thoughts and I wish the absolute best for you and your family. Take care, my friend. We'll greatly miss you. - Charles

I'm in the need of a drivers Starion tail. I need it with no spider cracks, internal water damage, or the like. Needs to be in good shape. I don't mind putter hazing or fading of the stripes. That will all be redone. Need it in good shape to 23149. Need some parts yourself? I can probably help you! Shoot me what you have and hopefully we can work something out. - Charles

I feel like 50 of the OEM ones would cost a few pennies more than about $4. Hahah - Charles

Darn it! I've been waiting for starion tails to pop up (mainly driver, but need both) and I miss this one. Just my luck. - Charles

Although this isn't exactly a mod, I searched and searched and found some clips that work perfectly for the interior trim pieces that require the square-head, twist lock clips. These are the clips that hold the rear trunk panel, the C-pillar trim, and the rear roof panel that almost always break. They're a tad loose by themselves, but even still they won't come out freely without twisting them to remove. Once they're in the clip channels, they fit nice and snug. Definitely can't beat the price. Just thought I'd share! http://www.ebay.com/itm/131128587309?_mwBanner=1 - Charles

The reason I mentioned this is because with your exact problem and what you did to "solve" it matches EXACTLY what has happened on both of my cars. The unit beeps, but there's no display, the actuators work in opening the door, But the fan doesn't blow. The first time it happened was on the car I was restoring. All new and rebuilt. I traced all the wires finding nothing wrong. Finally, I checked the fuse and forgot to turn the key off. As soon as I touched it it turned on. Just bent those contacts and not a problem since in both cars. As to your face/foot issue, like was already said the bellows rot and tear on them. I'm actually in the process of getting a replacement boot from something else. I may have something that will work in sealing back up that lower half. But haven't gotten around to it. The boot on the door lock actuator looks close to the same size. I have a bad spare that I've been meaning to try on the blend actuator. I'll let people know if this works! - Charles

Okay, do this. The issue you're having is with the fuse. The HVAC units produce quite a bit of heat on the electrical system from the blower motor. Heat makes metal expand. This expansion in the HVAC electrical system primarily occurs right at that fuse. It'll expand, but once it cools down it contracts and over time it can contract to the point where the blade of the fuse doesn't have enough contact with the high current side of the fuse panel. When you reseated the fuse, it got better contact with the fuse panel. But, over time you'll have the same issue within only a few times running the HVAC. There's an easy fix. Just take a small jewellers screw driver and bend the terminals in the fuse panel so the fuse will fit more snug. Problem solved! Since you'll be down there, May as well do all the fuse terminals - Charles

You and me both! There's got to be a way to put something on the belts to restore them. If you scratch them with your fingernail or something, where you scratch turns black. At least mine do. I'm really starting to like the "STARION" or "TURBO" design. I'll see what I can come up with. Worst case, I have myself a pair of useable, custom seat belt pads - Charles