nightwalkerancestery

Maybe I'm getting confused. From what I understand, bleeding the MC in car is to undo the brake lines there with the pedal pressed and then tighten back up once it hits the floor. Fluid goes everywhere, but that's what I've heard on how to do it. Is it possible to get the air that's stuck in the MC out by doing the caliper method you mentioned with the pump? I've got a spare pump that I can easily use. I'll try that regardless. From what I hear, it's harder to get the air out of the MC because it often won't all get to/through the lines. - Charles

So, instead of pushing the pedal fast to pump it, just pump it slowly a few times to the floor, hold, and release a caliper bleeder, and repeat until straight fluid comes from each caliper? - Charles

I feel as though most basic standard transmissions will do this. I've watched a driver get out of his racecar to celebrate when parked on a bank and while he celebrated you could see the car lurch back a few inches at a time. It'd move a couple inches and then stop. Move a couple inches then stop. Obviously he didn't really care cause he planned to get back in the car before it got in danger if hitting something. I've never tried to park on an incline without the parking brake, but I could see it being the case. - Charles

That's the one thing I didn't do. I read about that possibility last night through my searches. I figured doing the two person method of one pushing the pedal and the other loosening the valve would have shot any further air out. That was at least the thought I got from my father. I should have known by now not to listen to him. Lol. I got a TON of air at the start, but that has since stopped and is now just straight fluid. What would be the in-car bleeding procedure be for the MC? I read a few hints, but never found a detailed process. - Charles

Well, this chapter is coming to an end only so a new one can start. It was a hair over two years, two months ago that I picked up my 87 from Richmond, VA. Like many, she sat for about eight years prior to my ownership. She had electrical issues from stupid previous owners, the engine was locked up, and all kinds of other...stuff. Anyway! I got her with the intentions to rebuild the motor, fix the electrical issues, and just drive and enjoy her. Quickly, that turned into much more and before I knew it she was undergoing a full nut and bolt restore. Despite being a full restore with all new/rebuilt parts, it was still a budget build. I've spent countless hours... late nights going into early mornings... gallons of blood spilled from the cuts and slices from hitting this or slipping on that... tears from watching my bank account disintegrate. All of this has been non stop for over two years along with going to college beyond full time. 99.9% of the work was done by yours trully. The ONLY work that was outsourced was to two machine shops. One to install and machine for new valve guides and the other to press on and off the inner pinion bearing for the rear diff. That's the ONLY two things that I didn't do. A total price of $75 for those two things. With all the penny pinching... hours upon hours of research... rockauto discounts... I can firmly state that the total price of work plus initial purchase adds up to under $3k. However, all that time spent and watching her turn into a shell and then back to a car does something to a person. That moment that the car starts... that moment that the car is thrown into gear and you let the clutch pedal out to the grabbing point and you feel that car moving under its own power. Those moments are when it all becomes unbelieveable. Those little things you did to get her to where she is. Those tiny details that only you'll see. It's the moment that pride really sets in and that $3k turns into "priceless". I feel that even if I were offered $4 million for her, I would immediately decline. It's hard to impossible to put a price on something so personal and meaningful. At a point it becomes about so much more than money. That's my story. Have I inspired you? Do I pull at the strings tied to your throttle plates? What's YOUR story? - Charles

Just a note...those sway bars are the same size in 87s. The 21/19 bars were on 87-89 and maybe even 86. I believe the only cars with smaller anti-sways were flatbodies, but not positive if it includes the 85.5 or 86. If needed I can measure the ones on my 86. - Charles

Getting SO close to the end of my restore. I can't complain with the few issues I've had as none of them have been a detrimental issue. However, one of the current ones is the only thing really keeping her from taking a trip down the road. During the restore I replaced everything, everywhere. That means new hard lines...New soft lines...fully rebuilt calipers front and back...New e-brake cables. The whole 9 yards. After bleeding every corner I got pedal feel and it was great, except that I noticed when I depress it slowly, it goes to the floor. Here are the scenarios as of current... Push pedal suddenly, it stops almost immediately. Super firm. Push pedal slowly, it goes to the floor. Push pedal slowly to the floor, bring it back out only PART way, and press again, firm pedal feel at every point no matter how hard or soft until brought completely back out. After the first bleed, I found a small leak at the MC at the block that feeds both front calipers. I fixed the leak and rebled, but I didn't get any air from any calipers. What do you guys think? Air in the MC somewhere? Air in the lines? P.S. I rebuilt the MC with good spare seals. - Charles

I running the same combo as you from a different manufacturer and they rated the combo at 475 lbft. That coupled with the two step surfacing I had done to the flywheel, I'm sure it'd hold a good 500 lbft on the fresh disc. Just to help give you an idea of your combo capacity. - Charles

Isn't it, though? I just bought a cheap electronic one online last night as a tester to see if it cures the problem. I've already spent $25 on flashers, so I figured I'd use a cheap one first to make sure it cures the problem before spending $12 to have it not work. I'll let you know how that works out. Thanks, bud. - Charles

What baffles me is not only has the same setup worked for others, but that the flasher works perfectly when no lights are on. I'm trying to figure out what having the lights on changes. The only reason I'm hesitating on the full electronic flasher besides having to wait for it to come in, is not having the click. It's often an issue that I don't hear the click as it is and accidentally leave the flasher on until I realize people looking at me like I'm full on stupid. Lol. - Charles

Any ideas, guys? Still haven't gotten them to work with running or driving lights on. Need any ideas you've got! - Charles

From what I've heard, the four and six pucks eventually eat into the flywheel even before it gets to the rivets. It's just a drawback of having a disc that grabs immediately like it does. Even the sprung six pucks will do it to a degree. Just something to think about. I got a flywheel from Phil (FijiPhil) that someone ran a six puck on and it ate a groove into the flywheel about .150" deep and it hadn't even gotten to the rivets. - Charles

I'm running an RPS Stage 3 PP with a full round (basically stock) sprung disc. I like the combo. Grabs hard as a mother, but still slips enough for smooth engagement. Only thing is that I can't find them for our cars anymore. I'll keep looking... - Charles

The bolt thread is 10mm x 1.25. The length of them depends on how long your spacers are on your stand. Just measure the spacers and extend it another 1.5" or so. - Charles

I use a bolt through one of the A/C holes in the bracket and a bolt from the passenger side motor mount. I usually wrap the chain around the mount and secure it with a bolt through two links. That's pretty balanced from what I've done. I wouldn't recommend a timing cover bolt. I feel that as too much of a risk of galling/cracking the timing cover or bending a TC bolt. - Charles

Oh, and I just verified it through part numbers. The pre-88s have the same starter part number as the 88/89 flys. - Charles

They are not different. The only coherence between the two flywheels is the friction surface. The ring gears ate both the same. Running my 87 starter with an 88/89 flywheel currently. Engages fine. Should be good to go. - Charles

Good news! Looks like the turn signal assembly was the issue! I disassembled it and cleaned off that dielectric crap I put on it. I was curious about the stuff from the start seeing as it was black instead of the usual clear. Anyway! One problem cleared, one to go. I got everything together and tried it out to find the turns working BEAUTIFULLY. So I thought. They work perfectly EXCEPT when the running/driving lights are on. If they're on, it'll only flash on and that's it. I don't have the right front turn in yet, so I'll be putting that in just to see if that's throwing off the load. Any thoughts on other possibilities in the meantime? - Charles

I vote for the Arduino file. It's an easy platform to use with just a little research and it'll give you a lot more options for additional ideas. You can do so much with arduino. - Charles

Putting it back in is just as easy. Just watch the oil pan!!!! If it's a manual, I prefer to take it out as a whole. If it's an auto, I usually disconnect them. Bigger transmission and a lot more connections and lines to worry about with the auto. If you plan on taking the engine and tranny out as a couple...DON'T forget to take off the shifter from the transmission case and drain the transmission. Otherwise the transmission will get stuck on its way out and you'll pour a few quarts of tranny oil all over the ground where you'll eventually lay later. Dare you to ask me why I mentioned these annoying facts. Lol. - Charles

Sorry for disappearing from this thread. I had checked my content page and this one didn't highlight up for a while and now suddenly did. The thing is that this is a CONPLETELY restored car. Down to every nut and bolt. What parts that couldn't be replaced were rebuilt including the turn signal assembly. I cleaned every connection I could reach in this car and everything works flawlessly in terms of electrical except this. Does this rule out the switch, no. Mistakes happen. I have a few parts to paint for final assembly tomorrow, so while they dry I'll get to work on this issue a little by pulling the switch assembly again and making sure it's all clean. Hopefully I can find something. Maybe some grease got from the pivot point into the circuitry causing poor connection. The EL12 has been known to work fine for the purpose of our cars being converted to LEDs. The bulbs are the cheaper eBay ones, but they all are very efficient and work beautifully in every other way. Brake lights are bright as ever. Corner markers are perfect. Parking lights are blinding. I just have to figure this one tiny hiccup out. Thanks for the replys everyone and I'll get to this tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully I can make headway. I'll let you know what I find in the switch assembly. - Charles

I third the comment of easiest engine to pull. I've pulled everything from 4 bangers to v10s and I've always found this engine ridiculously easy to pull. Like said, definitely remove the radiator. Makes it a thousand times easier and you can flush it while out. Careful on those brass pipes, too, like was also said. If it's an auto, those torque plate bolts will likely be a b!$©# to get out. Be careful not to round them. If it's a manual, then that'll be cake. You can pull the tranny with the engine if it's a manual. It's not that hard. Or you can separate it by supporting the tranny with a jack, unbolting all the bolts, and using a screwdriver to pry it away. It may also help to keep two of the bolts threaded in just a few threads while you separate them. Keeps the casing from binding on the motor. Just take it slow and get a helping hand if you can just to watch for any still connected lines or wires. Mitsubishi did an immaculate job on access and connection types on these cars. If only cars these days were as easy. - Charles

It all depends on when in the spring. I'd definitely be in if it doesn't clash with other scheduling. And of course, it also depends on money. Lol. - Charles

Casting lines. Nothing to be worried about. Looks like a very clean head. Regardless of any doubt, I've NEVER head of one of these heads cracking there. - Charles

I've never had a bad one in any of my 87s or 86s. They ask tighten perfectly fine. Before I rebuilt the column on my 87, it worked flawlessly. I redid everything and it feels even better than before. Locks nice and tight. I've only experienced problems with my 88 and 89. A rebuild would also help with the stupid column twisting by replacing those snap-off bolts. It's easy to do and gives the opportunity to check the commonly written parts. Just my 2.6 cents - Charles