obsolete

Thank you for this write-up! I need to do this on my car someday. My rear spoiler is bulging from rust underneath and I have a clean one to put on, I've just been scared...

Some people get hung up on having a rare color, but the reason red quests are the most common is because they look great

It's hard to do a color change right...unless you do a ton of prep work, there's always somewhere where the original color peeks through. I'd get it redone in factory red.

I've had Summit AN fittings with scratches on the sealing surfaces brand new in the packaging, I had an Aeroquip pre-made braided hose that was only crimped on one end, and then there was the whole issue with Russell quick disconnect fittings coming apart and burning down cars. Aftermarket stuff is always a mixed bag.

100% do the MKS kit. It's a high quality product.

Okay, sorry, don't have anything then. Good luck.

This started out as a post in my rear caliper rebuild thread, but I decided to make it into its own thread to make it easier to find. Here's all the parts sourcing info I compiled during my rear caliper rebuild project: Rebuild Kit RockAuto, etc.: Centric 143.46004 includes only the caliper piston seal, dust boot, dust boot retainer. Dorman D352041 includes all of the above, plus two o-rings, one of which presumably fits the parking brake actuator. If your slider pin and parking brake dust boots are in good shape and you're okay with cleaning and re-using them, then you may be able to get away with just buying one of these cheap kits. If you need new slider pin and/or parking boots, see the other options below. Bigg Red: There is a rebuild kit from a UK company called Bigg Red. The part number is 1583S for a kit to rebuild a single caliper, and 1583 for a kit to rebuild two calipers. They are available on eBay and will ship to the US. I bought the 1538S kit, and it arrived in 9 days, which is faster than it takes for some things to ship from California. The kit also includes the caliper piston seal, piston boot, boot retainer ring, and o-ring for the parking brake actuator, but not the parking brake boot. Mitsubishi OEM: The holy grail is the Mitsubishi OEM rebuild kit, MB238251. As I write this, they're available on Yahoo! Japan auctions for $20-30. This kit includes EVERYTHING: piston seal, piston dust boot, piston boot retainer, slider pin dust boots, parking brake dust boot (correct OEM shape, not the big cylindrical aftermarket one), parking brake actuator o-ring, the spring that goes around the parking brake arm, even assembly lube and grease. If I had known that this kit was available when I started my rebuild, I would have bought it. You can use a proxy buyer service like Buyee to purchase one of these kits from Yahoo! Japan auctions and get it shipped internationally. I also found that 4610A037 is listed as a replacement for MB238251. This one is available from Amayama; they ship directly from Japan, so it may be a little cheaper to order one this way than through a proxy. I threw one of the 4610A037 kits in my last order from Amayama and it was in stock, and when I got it, all the parts looked correct, but I haven't tried it yet. I'm just going to hang onto it in case I need it someday. Slider Pins I have not been able to find new aftermarket replacements anywhere. The OEM part numbers are MB193824 and MB193826. Amayama claims they are still available in Japan, but I haven't tried ordering them to verify. I found some used ones in good enough condition for my rebuild. Slider Pin Boots The only source I have found for these is one of the two overseas rebuild kits listed above. Assembly Lube Yes, you need assembly lube for the caliper piston seal. The little packet of silicone grease that comes with the Bigg Red kit is not the right stuff. The grease that your local auto parts store sells as disc brake caliper lube, high-temp brake grease, etc. is not the right stuff. You can get away with just using brake fluid, but I have personally had problems doing this in the past, and I wouldn't recommend it. The problem I've had with brake calipers that I reassembled using only brake fluid on the piston seal is that they made a creaking sound when applying the brakes. The brake fluid doesn't do a very good job of lubricating the interface between the seal and the piston. Creaky brakes might not sound like a very big deal, but trust me, it's louder than you'd expect, and it can be really annoying. This problem isn't just limited to amateurs reassembling calipers in their garages; it happened to GM too. Look up GM part number 89022161 and read the TSB they issued for this exact problem on brand new cars. By looking up the MSDS number for the GM caliper lube, 30047098, you can see that it's 60-70% castor oil. Yes, castor oil. That's the key ingredient. It doesn't soak into the rubber and degrade it, and it's compatible with brake fluid. There are several different castor oil based lubes on the market that are suitable for caliper rebuilding, here are the ones I know of: Castrol Red Rubber Grease (and various other products sold as Red Rubber Grease) Raybestos BAF12 Brake Assembly Fluid (this one is sold at RockAuto) Centric 500.10000 Brake Assembly Lube Carlson H9440 Brake Assembly Fluid McKay 50600 Assembly Lube (I used this one because it was the one I could the cheapest/soonest and it worked well for me) Caliper Piston There are a couple part numbers for these from major US distributors: Raybestos DPS85077 and Centric 146.41001. I have not been able to find any in stock anywhere. Summit Racing claims they can drop ship either of them from the manufacturer in 3 weeks. I tried ordering both and waited a month and they never shipped, but I was still able to cancel my order and get my money back. The only legit source I have found for new pistons is from a Spanish manufacturer called FRENKIT. The part number is P414101. They're available on eBay and ship from Germany, Latvia, or Lithuania. SQC forum member TexasQuest ordered some and said they took 3 weeks to arrive. He didn't end up using them, so I got mine from him. Thanks again TexasQuest! FRENKIT has updated their website and no longer lists any part numbers for cars pre-1995. The P414101 pistons are still available on eBay, but I am worried that FRENKIT may have stopped manufacturing them, so if you need one, buy it while you still can. The FRENKIT replacement pistons do not include the parking brake parts; you will need to cut them out of your old factory piston and install them in the new aftermarket piston. I show how to do this in my rebuild thread. Belleville Washers The specs on these are 11mm ID, 28mm OD, 0.6mm thick, and 1.5mm tall. I can't find anything close enough from any industrial parts suppliers that I'd be comfortable substituting it. Everything that's anywhere near the right size is too thick, and would add a ton of stress on the parking brake cables. My washers are badly rust pitted, but after cleaning, they still do the job, so I am reusing them. If you really need to replace some of yours, the OEM part number is MB134689, and Amayama claims they are still available in Japan. There are also other cars that used the same Akebono rear caliper design that you could salvage the washers from. The Fiat 124 is one example: https://www.midwest-bayless.com/Fiat-124SC-0_p-23807-caliper-washer-u8-brake-caliper-rear-belleville-washer-fiat-bertone-x19-124-lancia-scorpion-all-u8.aspx Needle Bearings The shaft for the parking brake arm rotates on two 15x21x10mm needle bearings. That's 15mm ID, 21mm OD, and 10mm wide. Thanks to kev for providing the original part number, KOYO 15BM2110. I found replacements on eBay by just searching that part number, 15BM2110. They aren't genuine KOYO, but they won't have a very difficult job in the brake caliper, so I'm sure they'll be just fine. This size of bearing is also used in various Yamaha ATVs. They cross to Yamaha 4WV-46167-00-00 and are listed as a front differential pinion bearing for: YFM400FA Kodiak 4x4 (00-04) YFM400FW Big Bear 4x4 (03-06) YFM600FWA Grizzly (98-01) YFM600H Grizzly Hunting (00) Another part number I found was All Balls 23-1004, which crosses to the Yamaha and Koyo part numbers above. Parking Brake Boot This is the big rubber boot that covers the whole parking brake mechanism on the back of the caliper. The only rebuild kit that includes a new one is the OEM Mitsubishi rebuild kit from Japan mentioned above. There's also an American aftermarket replacement, it's made by Acushnet Tool Company and the part number is B-2121. It's listed here as a Subaru E-brake Boot: http://www.acushnettool.com/cgi-bin/site/site.cgi?manage=ATC&cat=hardt. I'm not sure how you'd order one of these--call or email the company, I guess? They seem to focus on selling to professional rebuilders. This part is clearly visible in the photos of a lot of the reman rear calipers. It's a different shape than the OEM boot and it gets kind of crushed by the the metal shield that bolts onto the caliper, but it works. Brake Pad Clips These have become hard to find recently, so don't throw yours out. They are stainless, so it's worth cleaning them up and reusing them. The factory part number is MR389623, and they still appear to be available from Amayama in Japan. The aftermarket part number is Centric 117.46011, if you can find any.

Leather or cloth interior?

Sure. It'll be a little tall, though. Over an inch taller than stock: https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=245-45r16-255-50r16

Cool, thanks for the info. Are you using a variable speed angle grinder, or something else? I've found that those cup brushes can get pretty sketchy at high speeds.

Which rack are you using? Saturn? I know it's been successfully swapped before, but not with a Ford 5.0 as far as I know. If you want a power rack, the Dodge Shadow rack is another one that I know I've seen used.

I agree with Bill. I've compared the "simulated narrowband" output from an Innovate wideband to a real narrowband sensor, and the wideband switches at about half the rate. I'd rather run my car on a real narrowband sensor.

Nice work. What did you use for removal, wire wheel? What kind of undercoating are you using?

Yes sir, still available. I will send you a message.

Looks like I accidentally left a period on the end of the link. I went ahead and fixed it, glad you found them anyway!

I'm using these on my car: https://www.brandsport.com/grla-41138bc.html. I really like them, they look just like stock.

Thanks for posting the solution! I wish more people would do that, it sucks when you have a problem and find a thread about it with no conclusion. I hope you're enjoying the car now.

I've already taken some bump steer and ackermann measurements with the factory steering box and linkage. I used the laser and mirror method. It was my first attempt at anything like this and I made some mistakes, but I tried to document everything as well as I could, and I made some spreadsheets that might be useful to you. Bump steer: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/1988-chrysler-conquest-ecotec-swap/178574/page9/#post3424183 Ackermann: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/1988-chrysler-conquest-ecotec-swap/178574/page10/#post3433160

Are the injectors aftermarket? Rochester/Delphi style? When I had a wideband on my car with those injectors, I could see it idle super lean until the car kicked into closed loop, when the computer could start using the O2 sensor feedback to fix the lean condition.

Sorry, I do not.

I do it that way too. Just be careful not to bend the dust shields on the axles.

Interesting, thanks. Are you using any thinner or hardener with it? I used that paint on a race car interior years ago, and I remember it taking what felt like forever to dry.

I would recommend starting in Virtual Mechanic.

Hey, mine too! Having one with a little accident history is fine, it'll never sell for $20k on BaT, so you can drive it and mod it guilt-free instead of worrying about its collectible value. That's how I see it, anyway.

Looks great! What kind of paint are you using? Looks like POR-15.