obsolete
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Posts posted by obsolete
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This is the correct MAF-T: https://www.extremepsi.com/store/MAF-Translator-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-90-94-BLACK-FRIDAY-SALE-FTS-050DSMTRANS1G.html
I wouldn't bother with it, though. Megasquirt is a way better long term solution.
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I think the 88+ diff has a different axle spline count; 28 vs. 25 for 87 and older, if I remember correctly. I think I remember hearing that the axle parts can be mixed and matched (i.e. use parts from both 87 and 88 axles to use an 88 diff with 87 hubs or vice versa) but I haven't tried that myself and wouldn't want to bet on it working, sorry.
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I have one out of an 88-89. Diff, torque tube, and axles. Unfortunately, I don't know much about it since I didn't pull it from the car; I got it with a load of other parts. I'm up in Rochester, MN and would be willing to meet you halfway to eliminate shipping. I can send you pictures/videos if you're interested.
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I'm not aware of a viscous LSD in a Starquest. They're all clutch packs as far as I know.
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On 10/17/2023 at 2:34 PM, tux said:
Welcome back from the dead, thread.
Grand Saloon Rally Viscous Realtime
That's funny, Viscous Realtime sounds they were referring to an AWD system, but the road cars never got one.
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There was a guy in one of the Facebook groups named James Kane who modified a Montero sender to work. Of course, because this is the way Facebook works, all the info appears to have been lost, so I can't tell you how to do it, but it is possible.
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On 10/2/2023 at 8:12 AM, kev said:
The C clips hold the brake rotor against the hub. The rotor slides on over the studs on the hub and the c-clips get inserted over the studs against the rotor. They honestly are not required, they just help installing your brake pads.
The C-clips hold the studs in the hub too! For some reason known only to Mitsubishi, the studs aren't press fit into the hubs like most cars, and if the clips aren't installed, the studs can slide out and spin, which sucks. I used Loctite 680 on mine to hold them in so that I could eliminate the clips and run aftermarket wheels.
Yes, the clips do go between the rotor and the wheel. The stock wheels have counterbores at the lug holes to clear the clips.
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On 9/15/2023 at 10:04 PM, TexasQuest said:
Neither are the rebuild kits.
Sure, RockAuto has them: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,1988,conquest,2.6l+156cid+l4+turbocharged,1062470,steering,power+steering+pump+seal+kit,7407
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Might try changing the fuel filter also, just to rule that out.
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Those wheels look great on the car! Fellow quest & C5 owner here as well
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You can get enough current to weld out of a 12V lead acid battery, which is more dangerous than a current-limited power supply if there might be a short in the wiring you're testing.
That being said...I still just use a battery. Good luck.
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Cool! That's a great idea. Thanks for posting it.
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All my A/C experience is with R134a, but 0psi on the low side with the compressor running says to me that the system is low on refrigerant.
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Turbo Cary's advice above is great. Also, given all the problems you mentioned, I can't help but wonder if you have a problem with your ETACS module. I'd start troubleshooting there.
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Damn! When I got my parts from SendCutSend that I'd prototyped with 3D prints, the dimensions were dead on. Makes me think you might have a dimensional accuracy issue with your printer that got baked into your design. Looks like the important parts are close enough, though. I'm sure you can make it work.
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Really? Do you have a picture of that? My rear wiper arm works exactly like the fronts. The pin is not part of the arm.
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Yes, the new blade will probably come with half a dozen different adapters, one of which should accommodate the removable 3/16" pin. It's pretty hard to find wipers with built-in pins like that anymore. I'm not aware of any.
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I have one that worked when I pulled it off my car. What's it worth? $35?
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You'll need a separate pin. The part is ANCO 48-05 (or 4805) but they are hard to come by.
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Thanks again for all the great info here, @kev. I got my parts; all the fasteners I pulled are in individual labeled ziploc bags, and the ones that the previous owner had already pulled before I got there are all mixed together in another bag. I seem to have everything, at least I haven't found anything that I'm missing yet.
The square plastic inserts for the A-pillar trim are really hard to remove without damaging them! I managed to get one of the four out cleanly, the rest I broke, or were already broken. The white plastic inserts for the seatbelt mechanism in the door were tough too; I got one of those out intact, and figured that was good enough. Since I have one good example of each, I can 3D print replacements for both of them.
I tried to pull the belts out of the reels to inspect the webbing, but it seems like they're stuck. Is there a trick, or is something broken?
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0.8mm is the most common thread pitch for M5. Since Mitsubishi generally uses finer threads, that'd be my bet.
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Nice! Yeah, spa turbo stuff is good quality. Glad they're still making these.
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Amayama lists it as unavailable. I doubt domestic dealers are sitting on any, but it's worth asking.
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I was just thinking about this, you know who I'm sure has an accurate Mitsubishi wideblock bellhousing drawing? Bill Hincher: https://www.billsautofab.com/projects/
He makes all sorts of adapters. Maybe he'd be willing to work with you.
starion gsr-vr
in Just plain ol' B.S.
Posted
Technically correct!