Shawn_Silva

Goodridge seem to be the choice as they are 8 lines, just like stock, nice fit. TEP lines are one piece, you have to rig up something to keep them from rubbing against the strut where it passes through the retainer. Take care Shawn

I think 2ndtimearound88 is referring to the upper strut tower mount. The rubber isolator that always cracks. They are available oem or I believe Monroe and Gabriel, amoung others offer them. Your local autoparts place 'should' be able to look them up for you. Take care Shawn

The aluminum parts are the front bumper rebar/support which is not the same part as these. Take care Shawn

Yes, that would be fine. Take care Shawn

Sorry, time is tight, they will be released on this site when complete. Take care Shawn

Thank you Dan, the list has been updated. What do you people think of a closed date of October 1'st and a shipped date 1 week after? Take care Shawn

Yes, they are coming along nicely. Take care Shawn

OK, so here's the question. At what horsepower level are the stock Starion/Conquest transmissions having problems.... -87, 88+ from real world testing. I was told the 2l mightymax/d50 trans will explode the first time you get traction, the 2l trans with quest guts was marginally better due to only being able to run the -87 guts due to bearing size differences. I still think they all shift like cawcaw and no matter what fluid you run nor how new they are do not like shifting above 7-7500. That my take on it. Would like to hear from others on their personal experience with horsepower levels on stock quest transmissions through the years. Take care Shawn

Ebay or various vendors online. Take care Shawn

Any huge company (you have to understand they sell dozens of different parts) can sell garbage and get away with it. Why do you think they had to add a section on their site about pros and cons of the pulleys only, because they have been having serious problems with the pulley's and are trying to settle everyone's emotions. You won't catch me running one, the damage doesnt come for tens of thousands of miles, probably when you have all the bugs out and the project is finished and the bank account is drained. Take care Shawn

What are Speed BleedersÆ and how do they work? Russell's patented new Speed Bleeders are the one-man bleeder valves with a stainless steel one-way check ball and spring. Install them in place of the original bleeder valves, and when it is time to bleed your brakes, simply crack them open 1/2 to 1/4 turn and continuously pump the brakes. The spring-loaded check ball opens to let out the old brake fluid and air, then closes between pumps to prevent the old fluid or air from re-entering the brake system. When new fluid starts coming out the Speed Bleeder, all the old fluid is bled from the system and you close the Speed Bleeder down. There is a patented thread compound on the Speed Bleeder that prevents air from leaking past the threads and also keeps the Speed Bleeder from seizing in the caliper. Sold in pairs, Speed Bleeders are available in both metric and standard sizes to fit most vehicles with hydraulic brakes or clutches. I have never heard of any problems with them, no. Take care Shawn

My take on the solid/aluminum pully's is they have no place on a high performance or air conditioned vehicle. With the clutch cycling it is a very hard shock on the front crank snout and keyway, they are not as strong as they appear. The amount of torsional vibration in the crank especially in this application of a high reving forklift engine coupled with lightened flywheels that increase/decrease speed at a rapid rate and a high performance clutch disc that is constantly technically starting and stopping the crank, you have a crank that is twisting from the loads exurted upon it. The stock harmonic balancer was designed to counteract this twist which causes vibration with throws the balance out. It has nothing to do with if you have the engine balanced with the pulley or not, it makes no difference. The end result is pounded out bearings and inevideable crank failure. You know, I've been following the whole aluminum crank pully debate for some time, considering producing such a piece for the community, but if you perform a simple search on the internet, I believe you will understand why I will never offer one to you. Here is one snippet from hundreds, don't waste your time and hard earned dollars, you have too much to risk my friends! "Since the original writing of this article, a few of us with these pulleys have done much more research. Billy has recently had his engine built up by Larry at Endyn. Upon dissasembly of the engine, Larry reported that the bearings, with 40k miles on them, looked like they had "a hard life." Roughly 20k of those miles were before the pulley, 25k of them after. We have no idea what the bearings from a 45k mile engine are supposed to look like, but by comparing the #1 bearing to the #5 bearing in Billy's engine the difference is stark. The # 1 has deep grooves which have worn away all the original machining marks, still visible on his #5 bearing. Larry also reported that his oil pump was so damaged as to be unusable. While we aren't going to detail all the arguments for or against pulleys, or tell you what you should do with your daily driver or track-only car, we (and Larry feel that the damage in Billy's engine far outweighs the benefits seen by the pulleys. We (including Larry) feel that the "accessory" pulley kits offered by companies like Unorthodox should NOT cause the same damage we think the crank pulley did- the harmonic balancer is weighted and damped to absorb the impulse energy created by the accessories as well as the crank itself; while changing the pulleys on the accessories will alter the characteristics of the load, we feel that any change would be a positive one." The old saying goes, if the manufacture could have left it off and saved that money without major warranty claims, they would have done so in a heartbeat. Take care Shawn

I was going to put an Unorthodox pulley on my 4g63 swap but that was the turning point once realizing that there is not enough meat in the pulley to do so. They make it so thin for meat under the belt machined groove. You could do a flywheel install. I ended up using a stock harmonic pulley due to the bad things I have heard about the unorthodox and wanting to retain harmonic balancer for various reasons. If you were deadset on retaining an aluminum pulley you could have it modded. I Everdured a trigger ring onto the stock pulley and built the stainless brackets in order to mount the hall. It's sturdy and has good looks, here's some pics; http://www.members.shaw.ca/questtsi/quest/buildup%20078.jpg http://www.members.shaw.ca/questtsi/quest/buildup%20085.jpg Take care Shawn

Backslider, Are you referring to these? http://www.sevensaturdays.com/auction/parts/little/bleeder.jpg http://www.sevensaturdays.com/pics/speedbleeder.gif If so I have heard really good things about them and want to get a set, just keep forgetting to check what thread I require. Anyone know what the stock bleeder screw thread on the quests is? Someone should start a GP on these things! Take care Shawn

I think my wenis just moved. Take care Shawn

OK, great, your added to the list. I am willing to close the GP at anytime, whenever the interested parties agree. Do you have a date in mind? Take care Shawn

Man, that man builds some mean looking pipes. Show quality, deadly flow. Looks killer. Take care Shawn

Bumper supports are getting close, but are still several weeks away... Take care Shawn

Please ask to be added to the list.  We'll quit when the majority agree. Here is the info; Stainless Steel Air Dam Brackets http://www.members.shaw.ca/questtsi/forsal...ckets%20007.jpg http://www.members.shaw.ca/questtsi/forsal...ckets%20010.jpg  These brackets were designed to replace the factory steel air dam brackets that always come apart in a pile of rust.  The welded threaded fasteners commonly break, forcing you to try and fabricate some form of retaining device on your new replacement air dam.  They are a direct replacement for the factory part.  These brackets are entirely fabricated from stainless steel.    The threaded fasteners are all TIG welded construction.  Includes everything required for air dam mounting.  Don’t attach your new, expensive air dam with inferior retaining methods.  It will fall off or sag.  This is your lifetime answer. 1 set $95.00 US + $5.00 shipping 10 sets $90.00 US + $5.00 shipping 20 sets $85.00 US + $5.00 shipping 30 sets $80.00 US Free shipping 40 sets $75.00 US Free shipping 50 sets $70.00 US Free Shipping Take care Shawn www.starconquer.com starconquerindustries@shaw.ca *** - INTERESTED MEMBERS - *** Distorted.Clarity Rusky 89tsi20g burton420 (Backed Out) TopDawg_43 Eirewolf Dan Hotpocket (purchased outright, thank you) RJ dtresserd Ryan_tex (Interested if we hit 20 person price)

Good news guys, glad to hear they arrived! Site is back up as well, www.starconquer.com Take care Shawn

I'd like to know how 'close' that bellhousing is. It must be bangon, there is no room for error unless you like main bearing wear, chewed up flywheels, harmonic vibrations that come and go, clutch chatter, front bearing/retainer wear and exploding drivetrain to name a few. Not tooting my own horn but the bellhousings I have fabricated and plan to market on their own and in the 4g63 kit have less than 4 thou runout. Now if I could just center my attention on one r&d project I could offer more to the community! Take care Shawn

My current provider of space is down, I am searching for another provider currently. Will be back up shortly. Take care Shawn

Oscar, Thanks for the kind words. The headers that I am currently offering (although I have not had the time to build, although the demand is there) are mild steel and not stainless. I will be offerring stainless at a later date. Alot of the R&D is currently going towards the 4g63 swap, as I am seeing alot of cars being junked because people are fedup with the 2.6 and have no options. This hopefully will give the option to swap out to the more readily available 2l and keep more of these cars on the road. I can start another thread in regards to the 2l swap as I can see this thread being molested with off topic who-ha shortly. Take care Shawn

Wonderful! A great addition to Tim_C's grinds! Take care Shawn

Thats a W58 86.5+. Â A Â R154 will not fit, the bolt pattern is completely different as well as the case being larger and it will not fit in a quest stock tunnel. The W58 is a tight fit, but it fits no problem. Before you throw around information about a transmission that the UK has been bolting behind Holden V8's, Jag's and high horsepower turbo applications, you might want to do your homework. Â You can blow up any transmission if you try. Â The W58 has proven to handle bucketloads of torque, many with the n/a Supra's have swapped to turbo engines and retained the same transmission with no problems over 450 horse, and thats with the massive torque the 'ol mighty six provides. Take care Shawn