Shawn_Silva

Please refer to http://www.starquestclub.com/index.pl?boar...2795128;start=0 for the outcome of this deal. Take care Shawn

One word, IMPECCABLE ! David organized the group purchase for the bulk buy of oem quality parts. The GP was handled very well, with constant communication between myself and David throughout the entire deal. Â He kept me posted on every aspect of the transaction (including my money order that UPS lost, UPS sucks) and never once was I concerned or worried for my investment. The parts were shipped on time, with my strict shipping instructions. The parts were well boxed and arrived on time. I would trust David again and again on future dealings as I would my best friend. Thanks so much David for a rewarding experience. Take care Shawn

Ripped the diesel out and threw in a 2.6 MPI just for kicks too, eh? Take care Shawn

Do you seriously own a Fuso, Scotty? Take care Shawn

That's reasonable.... Take care Shawn

Demented Mitsubishi Engineer Back At It in the aftermarket now.... http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/T...leBody2805.html LOL. Â Hmmmmm.....maybe I try an adaptation?? Take care Shawn

Save you all the searching... http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/T...ody2900-FR.html Take care Shawn

That is completely untrue. Nowhere near. I have seen both and own both and I call bull. As for the individual throttlebodies, it's very very easy. You get a twin weber/dellorto/mikuni/sk/solex, etc intake manifold (they probably still make them for the 2.6 and I see them on Ebay sometimes) and then just goto TWM Induction and they sell the throttlebodies that bolt right on to the Weber, etc style manifolds. Easy, done. I did this on my crx years ago, worked very well, but as Chad said it's more a race setup argumenting the mid to top end. Also engine management can be troublesome, sds especially (amoung others map equipped) does not work well with it as engine vacuum is very low. They speak of this very topic on their site. KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid. Awesome shocking looks, but too many moving parts and s*** to go wrong. No thanks. Take care Shawn

Hanging on the shop wall half finished. Sorry, been to involved with building headers to keep up with demand, this had to be put aside for awhile. Hopefully by the end of next month. Thanks so much for the interest! Take care Shawn

I'm picking up what your putting down. Just keep us posted. Lets goto the other thread for talk, k? Take care Shawn

Rob, Now that I read over my post, my tone of voice did sound aggressive. I apologize for this. This member was very upset with the quality of this intake and contacted me to see what I could do for them. I saw bad quality photo's he sent me of his concerns. Once I recieved the intake for repair it was soon evident that most was welded with a spool gun with little to no penetration. The pipe and thermostat jerryrigged to the side were scabbed on with no chance of sealing and no chance of even/true surfaces. It discusted me. Take care Shawn

Rob, I rebuilt one of their manifolds that ended up in the hands of a member here. Is that enough evidence of poor quality? Sorry to burst your bubble. Have YOU ever seen one? Didn't think so... Take care Shawn

Hello, Yes, I have several fwd bellhousings. I can take pictures if you wish, for that matter, you pay the shipping and you can have one. I found it was not possible to modify accurately and reliably, and I'm a machinest. You have 3 thou to play with, any more input shaft to crank centerline runout and you run the risk of serious problems arising. Everything from input shaft wear, internal trans damage to main bearing wear and excessive thrust wear. Not to mention if your really off, the trans will be a bear to install and will bind. To do the operation properly you need to have both faces perfectly flat, thats a given. Then you need to have both faces drilled in the exact parrellel to center line. Easier said then done. Dial indicator, lots of centering templates and a hole bunch of patience, it must be bang on. Take care Shawn

That would be trick. The Getrag Supra is quite a lump. Please take measurements, I'd be interested in working with you on an adapter, although I don't like T series Borg Warner's, but it's an option for sure. So what are you using for a bellhousing?? I'm still confused as to what your idea is because I have not seen a Mitsu bellhousing that is removable.... Take care Shawn

Yes it's a modded Magna. They take the picture really far away because any closer and you would be discusted. The quality is garbage. I don't mean to hammer someone trying to make a buck, but the price vs quality is just robbery. They also try and sell it as their own by milling the top of the plenum off. From that angle I think that's the wrong year Magna anyhow, it would foul the brake booster/master... Take care Shawn

I wouldn't use a spacer behind the flywheel unless it was dowelled and even then you would probably shear the dowels off if you were making any serious horsepower. I thought you bought a cheap 6 spd you were adapting? You have no options that will bolt directly on that are made by Mitsubishi, period. You can use a Mightymax 2L trans, but it will require floor/console hacking mods, it's cable clutch so you need to mod the bellhousing by tig welding some form of stool for the slave to sit on, hack the side for different fork, drill and tap the inside for different fork, custom driveshaft, and it will still explode with a 4g63 stock 200hp. You can take the internals from a Starion/Conquest, yes.....but only from a first gen, as the 88+ have bigger internals including bearings and will not fit the case. You'll get 250hp before the case flexes, throwing the mainshaft and countershaft for a tailspin and grenading. I would go either with your 6 spd which would be killer (T56 or Getrag??), automatic, or StarConquer's bellhousing for W series Toyota. Don't waste your time/money investing in a trans that just won't last and is costly/rare to find. It also requires hard to find parts when it scatters and requires mods to the unit as it's intergrated bellhousing. Take care Shawn

I don't understand. I never thought Mitsubishi produced a removeable bellhousing in a rwd transmission, especially not a KM132. I havn't actually looked at a 90-96 2.4 truck, but I would assume they are running the same trans with integrated case/bellhousing??? Hmmmm.... Are you saying you are going to use a fwd bellhousing and modify it? Thanks for your information. Take care Shawn

I'm supportive of your approach. Please keep us posted. A 2.4 bellhousing? Mitsu or Toyota? Take care Shawn

The possibility of doing the swap has been spoken of and discussed in great detail on this site and possibly others. The members who have dived in and performed the swap after reading what they saw are few and far between. I think if you were to go ahead and get the engine in the hole, rather than state your understanding for the undertaking, you would soon realize why it's not a reality for most members, as the proper parts are not available to do the swap efficiently. We're not pulling out of context that these cars came in japan with 'very basically' the same 4g63. We're dealing with a dohc head, completely different water and oil passages and a different bolt pattern bellhousing to block structure. None of this seems to faze you. It's tough to make a reality, trust me. I'm a fabricator and at times I believed it couldn't be done to my standards. I can shortly offer the community, our community the same quality and craftsmanship that their ride deserves that mine has always housed. Please do, bring forth your idea's and designs. I can guarantee that you can do the conversion from more than one angle. Please share yours... Take care Shawn

Sounds like your well on your way of making your dreams a reality. Show us pics and keep us posted on your progress. Take care Shawn

No, those aluminum plates were just to space the engine up to get the 2g intake off the steering box. But since I know a 1g will clear, but have fabricated a short runner race intake, I have since removed the plates and it's back on it's StarConquer Industries Engine Brackets that bolt directly to the factory isolator and place the engine very low and far back, the way it was designed. I don't have any clearance problems, but then again I run SDS and a 2g engine, so no rear timing adjustment on the rear of the intake cam, it's just blocked off. StarConquer Industries custom rear coolant housing and pipes really helps the install of any gen 4g, as it doesn't protrude out the back like a bad growth. Depends how you want to do it, what engine mounts your using, and most of all how much you want to spend. Not everyone can afford my product, but those that do understand.... it's well designed, well tested and puts forth the very best quality you can get. Call mejz, but it's my car I run it on too. It has to be perfect, or I don't run it, nor do I sell it. Let me know if you need any other information. Take care Shawn

http://www.members.shaw.ca/questtsi/4g63/2gIntake.jpg http://www.members.shaw.ca/questtsi/4g63/2gIntake2.jpg Let me know if you need any other information. Take care Shawn

You would have to remove plug the rear of the intake and move the throttlebody to the front. No you can not flip the intake, as it would hit everything including the power steering gear box, engine mounts, starter, etc etc. Plus I don't believe the holes line up. I have 1g and 2g intakes modified in stock if you require one. I'll see if I can post a picture to detail the operations... Take care Shawn

Oscar, I already have the 86lb Siemen's, any luck supplying 160lb for my alky setup? Take care Shawn

A 2.4L swap into a Talon/Eclipse is a fairly common swap these days. Â They don't rev like the 2L but they make bucketloads of torque. I think the question you should be asking yourself is how involved is the swap to a 4g dohc into a Quest. Â I think you will find it is very involved and without the right pieces ends up being a hair pulling experience. Â I should know, I've done it and am shortly planning to market the kit. www.starconquer.com Take care Shawn