Shawn_Silva

Why when I PM you it states it is sending to user 'Liondawg'?? Take care Shawn

silvrstar, Just so you are aware, the 8mm are only available in BLUE by the looks of the catalog. Just in case you wanted red or black. Take care Shawn

In regards to the wires I want. Â R-100 10mm, boots to fit 4g63 (proper 90 degree angle) with 3 foot wire length, I will terminate the ends to the coils but want terminals and coil boots included. Â Also want wire # wraps to identify the plug #. Â The coil boots must be for HEI Style Male Towers. Â 4 Wires in total. Thanks for organizing this. Take care Shawn

Mark, I was looking for steel shim headgasket If you wish you could get me a price on 2G 1995/1997 7 bolt complete sets. Thanks so much. Take care Shawn

What a pain in the a**.... Take care Shawn

heefner, Â I'd love to paint the car black but can't deal with the upkeep. Â I prefer to drive my cars not have them a trailer b/i/t/c/h Take care Shawn

Good luck with that. Talk to Chad, he might have a spare one to sell you. Take care Shawn

I will check today! Take care Shawn

Your in luck, I'm back on that project. Take care Shawn

What is available in 4g63 gaskets, I am ready to buy. Take care Shawn

Hello, I will take a set of 8.5 or 10mm perferably. But......I need them terminated on the ends for a 4g63 with boots. I want several feet of wire attached and I can terminate my own ends(they supply boots and terminals) at the coil packs. Any chance? Take care Shawn

Salt + High Heat = an exhaust system every year, maybe two if your lucky. I don't care if it's aluminized or not, it still gets attacked, it still gets deteriorated. Take care Shawn

Comparing Stainless steel to mild steel (or aluminized, it still rusts) is like comparing apples to oranges. Â Stainless is not for everyone (high costs) but it does offer the end user a downpipe for life as it will not rust out like a mild steel pipe will. The flanges are cnc'd, the mandrels are polished inside and out and stainless is much more difficult to work with, add the complexity of working with space age EverDur to further strengthen the pipe and of course the TIG welding required. Â The costs are more for this reason. Â Any interested parties can view our stainless downpipe here http://www.starconquer.com/down_pipes.htm Take care Shawn

I calculate costs once jigged and final product is complete and tested. Thanks for the interest. Take care Shawn

We fabricate our own engine mounts for the swap package. I found factory Mitsubishi engine mounts had too many clearance problems, spaced the engine too high up and too far forward. Take care Shawn

Thats freaking awesome!! Is it a GST? If so, see if you can take the transmission as well, you will be able to easily get your money back on the engine by selling the transmission as the GST's are in high demand. You can unplug the ecu(unbolt and take it) and then feed the wiring and plugs back out through the firewall and the rest is easy going grunt work. Try to get everything you can, you can always thin the harness and it's accessories down when you install in the quest, many of the items are worth quite abit of money on Ebay and such. The reason the valve cover is missing is because they are nortorious for cracking, same as the front belt covers. Be prepared, as the vultures of Ebay want big bucks. Take care Shawn

I should also add that the more heat from welding (not preheating) you add, the more chance of warping the manifold flanges. Probably best to bolt the manifold securely to a core cylinder head with all bolts/nuts before attempting to weld to it. This will allow for a quick draw file to true the flange after the welding effort, rather than serious material removal on a mill or having to chase the aluminum to pull back with heat in certain area's. Take care Shawn

I would vouch for Chad as well on mig welding not being the ultimate setup, but if your good with a spool gun it would do in a pinch. You really need to preheat the aluminum before welding with a torch, as your trying to draw as much of the oil and grunge out of the pores before introducing clean fill. Bead blasting the manifold will not clear the pores, it will just lay the pores on their side and once heated will open up and rear their ugly heads. Without preheat your finished product will be brittle, full of porousity, and generally be poor penetration. It's also a great way to improve your reflexes, as attempting to weld oil will attack your helmet with spits and small explosions. Do not attempt this at home. Take care Shawn

I'd bolt it in and get it running. Probably still a good runner. Congrats dude!! Have some fun with it this summer and then yank it and do your stroker next winter. They will make 400hp without taking the valve cover off. Take care Shawn

Thats how I designed the Magna I modded for Scotty. It just gets too cluttered with cable/reg/tb/thermostat housing all on the inside of the intake. The other plus is that the pedal firmness is increased pulling the cam from the top, the leverage of the now weighted butterfly allows for far easier and more progressive throttle response. An easy bracket fab allows for a much closer pull as well as a smooth angle. The factory ford 4.6 t/b's are somewhat fragile on shaft materials, the better the approach the more reliable the setup. Absorb what you wish... Take care Shawn

Yes I understand what you are trying to accomplish. I would think the best route would be to use the 2L block with the 2.4 crank. This way you have the squirters already and the dohc head. I'm just trying to look out for your best interest, as I think you will nickle and dime yourself to death. If you check with sites like http://4g64performance.com/1g_parts.htm you will find alot of high cost high demand parts that you will have to purchase seperately in order to make everything work. This does not include the custom machining and drilling, tapping, etc required. Trust me dude, we're together on this, I'll do everything I can to make it happen for you. I'm not out to hide any information, I highly recommend the swap myself. Take care Shawn

I fabricate the engine mounts required. I really think your going to spend alot more money than just buying a 2L with the correct head and squirters and then picking up a 2.4 crank. Take care Shawn

The squirters do their job all the time, it is a fairly small orfice which allows for serious pressure behind it, being driven by the oil pump. I don't understand your claim of the mounts being the same, wiring, etc? Are you referring to the 2L vs 2.4L? Because you will soon find that it has nothing to do with the 2.6, mounts being completely different as well. Take care Shawn

Sounds like your well on your way. You should really consider using a block with oil squirters to the pistons, it really has proven itself over the years. Alot of the big boys block them off on the 2g 7bolt cars because they find it raises the oil pressure which in turn lubricates the thrusts better, which they believe is what is happening, the thrusts are starving for oil. I personally would have started with a 1g/2g 4g63 and then stroked that combonation. You can find a 4g64 crank inexpensive and the rods and pistons are custom. I don't see the reason to buy a complete 4g64, it just doesn't make sense to me, as you end up throwing everything away, inlcluding the head, unless you stumbled across a rare dohc head, but I doubt it considering the year your speaking of. All the info is available on the internet, I guess it all depends on the method you choose. Your going to find out that the collection of parts and the choices of 4g style engines are easy compared to what you will be up against once you nestle it between the fenders. I don't mean any offence, as I completely support anyone's decision to go 2L+ power, but you make it sound so easy.....I didn't find it this way once I got my hands dirty. Please keep us posted, seriously. Take care Shawn

Right on. But what are you going to do with it? Surely it is no good for boosted applications and being a 7 bolt will suffer from crankwalk. Surely you can find a crank for far less money and custom pistons are a must as the stock pistons will grenade over 5 lbs of boost. Sorry to burst your bubble. Take care Shawn