Turbo Cary

You can always tap the EGR port to use a threaded plug for it. But it may be better to do that on the head itself so you aren't allowing hot exhaust gasses into the intake manifold (keeps it cooler) As for the part throttle concern what did you gap your spark plugs to? Should be around .26-.28 Mechanical or hydraulic lifter setup in your engine? Done a TPS reset?

I don't make these rules I just follow them

Do you know what they call Bigfoot in Europe? Bigmeter

When I deleted my ABS module from the CQ it was filled with a nasty gunk inside of it. Chances are that's probably why yours is no good. All you need to do to eliminate it is take the line from the master cylinder to the ABS module and route it to the proportioning valve under the master cylinder. You can get brake line and cut/flare it yourself or just loop the hard line you have already a bunch of times until it can connect down there. I did the build my own method. Another option is to have someone make you a steel braided line with the right length and fittings. FWIW the ABS doesn't really do well on these cars anyways and you can free up a bunch of room in the engine bay by deleting it.

If you're color blind do what my color blind friend does and use a shade/color wheel to try and match things up. He is an aircraft mechanic and he can't see blues or greens. I never knew he had that until we were at a car show and he asked me what color a green car was. I'm sure it's gotta suck for wiring stuff. You could also use a multimeter to determine your power and ground first, they usually are the solid color no stripe, or they are a larger gauge. Once you figure that out and can get something powered up, use the speaker output wires and try to match up which speaker goes where while it plays sound

Bolting to the hubs is good for setting up corner weight and doing an alignment. The ones I linked can be used with a plate/level to set camber, caster, and toe. Plus if your car is going to be up in the air being worked on you keep the suspension loaded up so the shocks won't leak down. Yeah they are super expensive but if you consider what you can charge to corner weight a car you could pay them off after a few jobs.

I tried to put your image into my message but only the link appears. The issue is you're linking a url without the .jpg or .gif at the end. For example here is this image from my imgur. I selected Other Media and insert image from URL And here is the same link to the image but without the jpg but linking to the imgur post https://imgur.com/a/JL02IX2 Now here is how your Flickr link looks using insert from url... It doesn't work cause it doesn't have the .jpg and unless you can get the specific url for the image from Flickr it only links to the website itself.

You could get a set of these stands. They bolt to the hub. Really expensive however if the car is sat up for a long time it keeps the suspension compressed so the shocks won't leak gasses. They are also good for setting corner weight if you have scales to use. https://mossmiata.com/hub-alignment-stands-by-paco-motorsports?utm_source=feed&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlOmLBhCHARIsAGiJg7lkmJ18b4DGUF9W9AJ2P7lky0F_kF4aqmDstH6CsNLQq8KXXcU-kGwaAoDXEALw_wcB

A T25 is a better option than a 14b, those are tiny. What year Miata do you have? I've got a 1990 Eunos I just got done swapping a 99 BP into.

What's up. My dog got a flat

Do you still have the pics? You could upload to Imgur and relink them.

I'm glad this site is back! I kept checking Facebook for an update here and had even contacted a few people for information. I don't even have a Facebook account so all I could see were the posts and a few comments. Super happy I didn't remake an account there. Hopefully more people will come back to this site.

Got my Spec Stage 3 6 puck clutch and fidanza flywheel from 3SX

Speedy, I am running a SAFC 2 which allows me three modes of modifying. You actually only adjust two but the third is calculated when adjusting those. You have your low, mid and high adjustments. You set your throttle point as to where you want that stage of map to begin and end. For example my low is set at 20%. Anything below 20% follows the low adjustments. My high is set at 32% so anything above 32% follows the high map. The mid is the halfway point between the two so between 20 and 32% it is the mid range. By having the ecu not receive a O2 signal it will stay in open loop. Then I'd have to tune it out starting with low range. Its gonna run stupid rich cause the ecu doesn't know what's going on. Then after it is settled I'd run my wot tuning. Why skip the mid? Unless I'm starting to tip lean on wot acceleration I can easily readjust the low to compensate. Of course this is gonna make things a little more difficult with temp changes outside. With the ecu reading the O2 it corrects in real time. I'd have to make tuning adjustments on a more regular basis not using an O2 input to the ECU. I also have a Maf Translator which is basically baseline settings. Running without an O2 input to the ECU running just a translator is pretty much impossible. You can't get the fine tuning adjustments needed.

I had the same question but think of it this way. The ECU in open loop runs on specific parameters. If you eliminate the O2 input it keeps the ecu in open loop. Basically I would just have to tune my car based on the stock programming and not ECU compensation.

Hey dude thanks a lot. I checked continuity at the MPS and there was none. I tried to adjust the sas and see if there was a difference (I rebuilt my throttle body a while ago) but it didn't change. I had to wind the throttle spring one more turn which made it keep tension against the sas. After that I had continuity every time the throttle contacted idle. Did the idle learn/tps reset and now it slowly fluctuates between 14.3-15.3 at idle.

I've been having some issues as of late with my AEM gauge sweeping a bit. Here is my current setup 88 secondary injector now as primary 12800cc secondary Maf Translator SAFC2 Stock ignition system Mazda TPS conversion TD06 16G turbo 2 1/4" hard pipes 4" intercooler 3" dp back exhaust My wideband seems to sweep from 13.5-16 while cruising or at idle. I have the wideband set to P04 and wired into the factory ECU to mimic the factory sensor At wot it is fine. On the rich side around 10.2-10.8 but I haven't had a chance to get it on a dyno to really tune wot. Also it is a new O2 sensor I just put in a few days ago. The old one I suspected of being bad so I went ahead and got a new one. Anyone have any thoughts? Every AEM I have seen tends to sweep only .2-.5 on the gauge and not rapidly like a narrow band

Any updates? Will we see these before Christmas?

I work in a shop and having a lift makes things a lot easier. I usually drop the trans then take the motor out but keeping it connected is fine. Just depends on your preferences

Where in GA?

Lol EBay. I basically have gone through the whole electrical system on the car and fixed any corrosion, bad connectors, etc like PQ did in his write ups. I did that a while ago. My regular bulbs worked fine but I felt they were not as bright as I wanted them. That's when I switched to LED bulbs. I got a bunch of different kinds from eBay. The T looking ones are not bad at all and very bright, but I did have a set in my fog lights and one of them broke at the seam where the led is assembled. Then I switched my fog lights to 3k HID setup. My brake lights and side markers are 1157 65 led bulbs. They are very bright. I'm sure your issue is an electrical one. Try doing this if possible, take a multi meter and make a wire with a 10amp fuse inline with it. Remove the flasher for the turn signals, set your meter to Amperage. Measure the current flow through the circuit at the flasher. You basically run the meter inline with the circuit. The wire with fuse into the positive of the flasher, then connect that to the multimeter, then from the negative meter lead to the other flasher port. The purpose of the fuse is incase the circuit pulls more current than the meter can withstand, the 10 amp fuse will help protect your multimeter. Also the signals won't flash, they will just turn on and stay lit when you activate them during the test. Turn it on for a second, turn it off, then on and manually "flash" the signal. Get an idea of how much current is passing through it. Like importwarrior said maybe not enough is going through to activate the electronic flasher.

I am running the EL12 flashers and don't have issues. Maybe it is wire corrosion or a weak switch with high resistance? Keeping too little current from traveling through it. Try checking the sockets and connectors as well.

You need to either shorten the housings and weld in perches, or buy them from 101propose on eBay. He sells them with an adapter to take up the difference in space.

Come to South Carolina. We need more quest guys down here. Plus beaches and good food abound

I don't know if the stock springs and spring hat would work with the camber plate. I never tried it. I believe it would put too much pressure on the bearing portion of the camber plate. At least if you get sleeve overs you can adjust the height to make it even.