Tim_C.

Yes, the SB cam is for mech slip rockers, so you have the correct set-up. Except there is no such thing as 1.6 mechanical rockers for our engines. The mech slippers are 1.4 just like the hyd's. There was a very, very, very rare mech slipper in Japan only, that claimed to be 1.6, but I've never seen one to verify. I have had several people send me 1.7 ratio mech roller rockers that look the same, but do not work with our rocker assembly. The Schneider roller grind will not work with the stock rocker assembly and valves. Major modification required! Caravan cams have the same grind characteristics. It is the same cam in all aspecs except the tail. yes, you can cut it off, or use the rear cam seal from an '87 caravan. You need to use two seals. Degreeing forward up to 6 degrees will normally move the RPM band lower for quicker response.

LoL! Yeah, it sure has. I remember posting when there was only a few threads to choose from. Then James (his last name) ripped off those people which wasn't really so long ago. Like 8 or 9 years. I bought a cam and valve springs from him about 2 months before he started not responding to people. It took a lot of 'order babysitting' too, with me calling him every few days because he had an excuse as to why it hadn't shipped yet. I figured he was just waiting to get few orders so he can get a price break, LoL! That was back when people were more trusting, including myself. I didn't think anyone would remember Frank. Turns out Kev remembers more than I knew about him! Yeah, he did run low 12's on the stock turbo. Others have dipped into the 12's, but he was rock solid low 12's. Then there was Vince, "Keep It Shiny Side Up!" I don't think he ever went multi-port. He bought an NSX or something like that. Then there was Mark Thompson too, who had a multi-port of his own creation. I think he is now somewhere in south AZ in a home where he can boat up to his porch on his house! He literally gave me parts for the CBRII car. I picked them up from Mike_C's parents house in Utah. Like a full set of '83 wheels, and some other odd parts. He even gave me an old throttle body and injectors for the 2.0L DASH engine. I still have it, but haven't figured out a good way to put it on our manifold without adding a throttle plate which would raise it up to hit the hood. It is supposed to supply quite a bit more injection than our stock ones, but I never verified that with flow numbers.

I think JamesCNM and a guy named Frank from Jay Kolda's site were one of the first too. Frank was breaking rear axles regularly with his, running low 11's on the drag track if I remember right.

I was at the Mile Hi Nationals a couple of weeks ago. Saw Richard Rawlins race the Hellcat against his buddy Dennis in a '70'ish hemi challenger. The hellcat was many car lengths ahead at the end. Are they AWD? It sure launched like one! LoL! It was far gone ahead from the git-go.

Can you repost the pics? I didn't see them before. I assume the static compression ratio is 7:1? Or is it 8:1? The pics may help determine that.

I have the panel cut out on a couple of mine. I notice a difference when I put a bag of ice on it for long trips.

Yes to all of the above. Could be bad signal to one or both injectors. Be sure injector plugs are new. Could also be the MAF.

It is easy to blow a heater core if you don't let the engine warm up and start boosting high right away. That blows the HG too, then the core. LoL! Seems to me the guy needs a new Honda and should take all of his stuff to the dealer. Sad story for one of our site's flagship cars if you ask me.

Again, this part will send a spine chilling whine and make your teeth rattle. If you don't mind that, go for it! The race car gear mesh noises are so up and down, and erratic that it really does irritate very badly. I'm someone who can sleep on an airplane through a baby crying too. 85 durometer is a race only part for people who are wrenching on their cars before and after each race.

You might want to rethink using 85 durometer for anything. They were attempted to be sold on here years ago with almost everyone returning them. It is basically a brick with no give whatsoever. A $5 weld job will accomplish exactly the same thing. And then you better be ready to check every bolt on the engine every few thousand miles. They will all start vibrating loose.

Good to see you back!

Condition of the parts is key. Stock can run very well as many have testified, but it is rare to find a stock bottom end in good shape. the cracks in those pistons could have already started a long time ago, and finally cracked the rest of the way with the added HP. I like to rebuild and go with stronger forged pistons. Worth every cent. They are also lighter. Lighter and stronger is better all the way around.

Yes, solder it!

Sounds like a temporary solution for now. The economy looks to be ready for another down turn too. I'm still in the same place at the same job. My Dubai relocation is on hold too. Things aren't getting any cheaper over there either. You have to make about $6,000 USD per month to sponsor your wife. Otherwise, she must work too. With a grandma and one kid, it gets even harder. I'm happy in Colorado. That's the key, staying content where we are, but always striving to be better!

Wow! I bet you can find a better place to mount it out of sight too. Clear up some space around the top of the air can. Maybe not much of an advantage space wise, but clearing out space up top always surprises me as to how much easier it is to work on anything near or under it. Except the separator may be the one thing that has to be up high. Thus the reason it is on cars I've seen. At least above the oil port on the pan.

Once again, Burton shows to have a lot of good knowledge about critical subjects on these and all cars for that matter. I too feel very safe in a StarQuest. The doors are the strongest I've ever seen on a unibody car. Compare it to Camaros and Mustangs. The SQ has an extra pin up high, with a full frame wrap around the window. You really can't beat that for safety in the same OEM GT car class. Compare it to any other made in its class for years, and it ranks either top or very close to it for safety. The shearing also lessoned the G-Force impact on the driver's brain. If the car would have held up, a side impact like that can cause brain damage. I agree too that water drainage is very important. If rain water can't drain out as designed, rust takes over and severely weakens critical points. I've never seen a write up about how ours drain, and how to check / clear it out. That would be a good subject that all of us should check at least. And check for weakened critical points too.

Yes, one that flows more would certainly help. New for under $20 is hard to beat. I'll keep my eyes open in the yards too. Sometimes they will charge a couple of bucks for parts like that, or throw them in for free if you are buying something else. I can usually pack my luggage with cool parts for under $100.

Congratulations! I pray you and your family continue to be wonderfully blessed.

Yeah, sorry to hear about this. Probably taken to the scrap yard. That happened to me before, and we found out who did it from the scrap yard. Some kid who was going around stealing anything that wasn't stored away. I had a catalytic, and some old struts sitting out, and he took them along with other stuff from my friend's shop yard. Just last week my friend came to his shop one morning to find my '96 Mirage up on blocks! Slotted mag wheels and tires all stolen, and some body damage from setting it down wrong. My friend is allowing a friend to sleep in a truck camper shell on the same lot. He heard nothing.

Hope your decisions are the right ones! Get well soon!

Rebuilt ones are available too for $100. They are worth it over a used one for sure. I have got 2 used ones on here, and both were junk. Never again.

The bronze rims were issued on the 1984 Dodge Conquest. It was a 2 tone exterior with white on top and bronze on bottom with bronze rims. Black pinstriping to break it up, but I don't consider that as another tone. I have one I got for a parts car to rebuild the CBRII. I use the 15" X 6" rims for snow tires on another flatty of mine. The '84 rims were of a design unique to that year and model car too.

That's why I recommend having it professionally done and don't try to max out the port sizes. However, it matters where the cracks were. It may not have been directly related to the porting. As Scott, Phil and others said, there is gain to be made at the valve sealing area, and behind the valve. SS valves are a must because they open up considerable flow area right where the restriction is. Can't go wrong with 1mm oversize either, but there isn't much gain there compared to losing area around the seat to machine it for oversize. It lessons the life of the head and future ability to grind the seats if you are concerned about that which most of us aren't. You really need to have a pro reseat it with a 3 or 4mm oversize custom valve for maximum gain there. And really only the exhaust would need increased. You can always crank more boost to get more on the intake. LoL! Not that easy, but you get the point. My local machinist grew up racing roundy and claimer engines, etc... So he learned how to get the most gain for the buck without losing high dollar parts if his engine got claimed by the 2nd place car. He bull hogs the aluminum mass above the seat, and the top area of the seat itself. This 30 degree bull-hog bit is quick and cheap. then he would unshroud the chamber side area around the seat to remove that wall of restriction there too. Both very easy and basic to perform. He charged me about $8 per hole at the time, with a 5 angle grind too. As said too, it depends on where the largest restriction is in the system, as to how much you gain in the head. Old plugged up cats or muffler? You won't notice a thing. Header and big exhaust? The gain will be considerable.

Yeah, safety in China isn't quite there yet. I was over there in Chengdu last week and had a power line dropped on me. Small one indoors. About 8 - 4 ga conductors. Dropped from about 12 feet from some guys installing it up on a scaffold. It was dead. Glanced off my hard hat, and my shoulder. Knocked me forward a few feet, but I didn't fall down. It knocked a face from a guage off of my machine. I walked over, picked it up and put it back on. Everyone in the shop thought I was hurt, but it only bruised me a little.

LoL! I'd actually consider that if it weren't already opened. Chad - WOW! Congratulations! I pray that the future for your family is full of blessing.