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83_project_toy

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Posts posted by 83_project_toy

  1. I dunno man, I wish I had the other photos ( I stole that one off a facebook message I sent to starquestpilot )

     

    The car was in nice enough condition that I would have left it as it was with the hood and all. If it was in rattier condition, sure, but in that cars case, nope.

     

     

    fanta you need to realize most people will buy a perfect 83 just for the hood and scrap the rest of the car seen it done many of times. even tho 83's were the best lighter better fuel injection and less temper mental then later years

  2. Your not going to want a manual on a wet boat ramp, I can promise you that! If you think your going to be heel-toeing it out of the water your nuts and asking to have the whole rig sunk. Get an auto, you'll be much, much happier when it comes to hauling.

     

     

    thats why you get a diesel it will idle out of the water. my f550 with 2700lbs tank plus 150 gallons of water and over 500 gallons of sewage would idle up a steep incline in the mud in 2wd in low or 1st. just ease out on the clutch and away you go.

     

    also if you have a good set of gears you wont have a problem either i've pulled more boats in and out of water more then i car to count. only 1 time was it done with a auto.

  3. nice rims...but there doesn't seem to be much shoe there for the car to run.

     

    the rear tires a odd ball thats one of those stretch tire deals so there's not much tread to contact on that one

     

    heres a better pic with the car in the air

     

    http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b128/klinkzor/lift.jpg

     

    there a large improvement over the factory 14's

  4. 17s??? The best I could come up with that had the right bolt pattern and offset were a set of 15s and they weren't easy to find. I didn't want to use spacers. It did improve the ride quite a bit with just the 1 inch.

     

     

    there rims were free and i needed spacers to just move the rears out so they didn't look so far in.

     

    http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b128/klinkzor/sidecar.jpg

     

    they still look to far in and the car needs about a 1in drop to look right to me with the low profile's

  5. I'm sure I've gotten into the low 100s but my 83 just doesn't feel that solid at high speeds.

    I don't know if it's just the airodynamics of an 83 (hood and front spoiler) but it starts to float.

     

    had my at just past 150ish on a long straight in the mountains. seen 140 afew times in lower elevations. and mike i know that feeling your talking about mine went away with a wheel and tire change. 17's with low profile tires vs 14's with balloons

  6. Yea those ebay aclutches arent too bad. I had a yellow pressure plate with a 6 puck disc (same stuff as the ACT i had mentioned above) Both were exactly alike. both functioned the same too. Lot less money to boot. I really think the EZ clutch or whatever brand it was is exactly the same as the ACT, it even had the stamp in the same location as the ACT, just didnt say ACT lol. The rivets, pins pressure plate parts and everything the same to the T. I liked both of them.

     

     

    yup it was a ez clutch stage2 worked great with the 14b but the 18g completely destroyed it after afew months but it wouldn't hold the 18g from day 1

  7. If you really want to play parts house games.....

     

    The kids that work in them now fall for some good ones.....

     

    Three of my favorites:

     

    1. Carburetor kit for an '89 Ford F350, 6.9L diesel.

     

    2. Rear u-joints for a '90 Cadillac Fleetwood.

     

    3. Lower radiator hose for a '63 Corvair.

     

    Lots of laughs!

     

    Tim

     

     

    also ask them for a rebuild kit for a 1944 mustang just leave out the p-51

     

    and you cant go wrong with asking for a radiator for a 74 beetle

     

    you'd be surpised how many times try to look them up in the same day :eek1bluegreen:

  8. Oh lets not forget the issues people saying they had with the bolts comming loose. However that i think is probably lack of a correct install tq and maybe lack of thread sealer. I think there was issues with the pressure plate to flywheel bolts comming loose too. Maybe cus the aluminum threads? Personally i dont like the idea of having aluminum threads for something like that spinning so darn fast. 83 prject how long were u using that fly? I can say mine wasnt damaged but like i said i only ran it for the day and took it back out for the lightened stocker. But yea i can pretty say i wont be bothering with the fidanza again for my personal experience and for the crap i seen above in your guys pics.

     

    used it for about a year and 1/2 with a ebay stage 2 clutch it worked great tell it met the 18g.

     

    the ring gear got tore up when my starter decided to hiccup in the middle of cranking and a cheapo starter that failed after a month or so that one was the one that broke the teeth.

     

    never had a problem with the bolts coming out but i had a hell of time getting the flywheel bolts out.

  9. sorry i should of said sander marks and i know what a burnt clutch does to a fidanza and a starter thats going bad.

     

    http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b128/klinkzor/000_0064.jpg

     

    http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b128/klinkzor/000_0065.jpg

     

    and the broken teeth

     

    http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b128/klinkzor/000_0066.jpg

  10. Not exactly..

     

    The maual mirrors found on 83 - - you are correct about the controls being on the back of the mirror, however - - in 1983 the center console held the window switches, not the door panels. It had the change dish (or small parcel you say) but had a power window control panel behind it.

     

    In 84-86 all manual seat-belt cars had the change dish and a small 1/2 size power mirror switch panel behind it. They did not have the large one 87-89 have due to the auto seatbelt release handles.

     

     

    http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b128/klinkzor/100_0456.jpg

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