flattiefan
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Posts posted by flattiefan
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I havent been on in so long and actually made a post (btw this is Kim not Bryan lol). We just have been super busy since the last meet in Little Rock. Right after the meet Bryan's appendix tried to rupture so he had to have surgery. He started a new shift at his job with more hours and pay right after his surgery. We moved into our house and have been trying to fix up the shop so we can get some car construction going on with both of our cars lol. Then we got some wonderful news. We are expecting a baby next year! My expected due date is July 1st. I just wanted to put on here that a new starquester will be coming along and I know that he or she will love our cars as much as i do and will one day have his/ her own. Whether i have to beat it into them they will drive a starquest lol. Any how that's all i had to say for now.
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Your best bet is to buy mandrel bends piece by piece. If you get a kit you'll end up doing that anyway. http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ and ebay is where I got all my stuff.
buying T-bolt clamps in bulk is a good idea if all your pipes are the same size.
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Clear out the lenses and use colored LEDs. Trust me I went both ways and its WAY better with red LEDs and a clear lens. If you have them apart just ditch the red part
I was thinking about doing that and then tinting them... wish I had some extras to experiment on
Thanks for the advice guys
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Im thinking about putting Led bulbs in my tail lights. Should I just buy all white and lenses do the coloring? Or do I need to buy the same color led as the lense?
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For anyone out there searching the site for info. Ive got my setup running... Dont buy the TPS plug from rockauto. The wires pull out easily
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I NEED THOSE!!!! MINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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DGAF YoU jacked my post!!!! IDC lol! NIce engine bay btw
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I lost one of the two rubber pads that mount the crossmember to the body while putting in a new clutch. Is there any link to buy a new one or does anybody have a used one i can buy?
Thanks flattiefan
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He gave us his back leather seats for free. Great condition as he told us they were. Fast shipping and fast replies. He's even gone as far as to help us find some front seats. If you ever see something you wanta buy from him dont hesitate. He's a great guy. Give him an A++
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did you sell those seats?
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We bought a new intercooler and its a little larger than the stock one. (BTW we gota flattie LOL) well there's one problem with that... the oil cooler lines are in the way. We were just wondering if cutting the lines and replacing a much shorter rubber hose would be okay. or are the lines that long for a special reason. This is Kim btw, Im not that good at the car thing but im working at getting better
OOOOHHH bad kim bad kim. it ended up not even being a oil cooler line. it was the power steering line. Cut into it anyways to find that out. sorry.
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1987 Starion FSM Volume no.2 Section 8-154 Ignition System. P.S. It's the wire that goes from the Distributor to the positive side of the coil. P.S. The White wire is the positive wire that comes from the distributor. I.E. 1987 Starion FSM Volume no.1 Section 14 page 44. (Look at the bottom left side of the page).
Bill
For some reason I cant look at the 87 FSM. I had looked at the 88 FSM before I asked here and it doesnt have an ignition section. Thanks for the info.
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I make myself a wiring diagram everytime I make a change. Im pretty sure I have everything msd wise hooked up correctly. People are always showing me diagrams that dont have the information I want. Since I first started this conversion I still havent got an answer on which distributor wire is 12v switched and its not on any diagram I have found. I have researched plenty.
If I had a stock conquest in my drive way I would go out there and check it myself with a voltmeter but I dont.
Im not trying to sound mean or anything and I appriciate everyones input but this is probably the most frustrating thing Ive done mechanically
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I removed the black wire with the green hood from the coil and it fixed it
should I remove any of the other stock wires on the negative side?I have everything wired up correctly now just disconnected from the distributor. I still havent figured out which wire coming from the distributor should be the 12v switched wire. yellow or white.
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I was wondering that myself. I still have all the stock stuff connected.
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Ok so heres whats going on I wired my msd 6a ignition box and tach adapter up basically just like this http://image.carcraft.com/f/9295769+w750+st0/ccrp_0805_02_z+tech_questions+MSD_wiring_schematic.jpg
there isnt a tach adapter in that wirng but its white and red wires are in the same place as the igntion box.
The problem Im having is as soon as I put the hot and ground wire to the msd ignition box on the battery. its as if im turning the key to on inside the car. the seat belts move, guages come on, makes beeping sounds, etc...
NO key in the car. Im stumped!
could there be something wrong with my ignition box? I did buy it used.
The only thing I can think of that could possibly be wrong with the wiring is the ignition box and my ecu and my new injector, fuel pump relays are all sharing the same 12 volt switched wire.
I would love love love some help of any kind.. Ideas anything...
Thanks for looking
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Thanks for the info. I dont have a diagram. The relay must be closed or at least it is with just the key on. My car isnt startable for me to check it then.
would a non intercooled wiring diagram have any info about the wiring on the distributor? I also need to know which of the wires coming from the distributor is suppose to be the switched 12v wire the white one or the yellow one?
the reason im needing all this info is im wiring up a msd ignition box and tach adapter with a megasquirt ecu on a custom harness.
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I want to use this blue and yellow wire on this plug. What was this pluged into originally? any help is much appriciated!!!!!
http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z366/conquestfidget/conquest/IMG_0256.jpg
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I havent heard of a branson meet this year. theres going to be one in littlerock meet tho!
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Its doable Im doing a clutch swap in my drive way right now. You just need to make sure you can get the car up high enough. Mine is setting on 2 rail road timbers on each side.
to pull the transmission all the way out you will need to unbolt the bell housing of course and I belive the starter is bolted to the trans as well, and then theres the speedometer wire and 2 bolts on each side on the cross member. Thats it other than the drive shaft. Its pretty straight forward
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ok its the 18th picture down, but it dosent say much about it
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nope. Ive read through 9 pages on that website lots of pictures and interesting stuff but not what I was looking for. I need a diagram or someone to just tell me what im needing to know.
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ok theres a black wire with a white stripe with a black connector on the end of it that goes to my alternator. as it gets closer to battery it splices off. Where does this splice go? This black wire shares a blue and white connector with a yellow wire. I also need to know where this yellow wire goes.
I had to cut the yellow wire and the splice off the black wire to remove my factory harness.
Any help would be much appreciated!
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First time Ive seen the DOHC pics. the valve cover looks neat. That whole DOHC scam was before my time on here. but Ive heard stories!
Not sure you guys really want to hear this but...
in Just plain ol' B.S.
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