ucw458

They are LS2 car coils. LS2 truck coils have the heat sync.

Bench bleeding involves attaching hoses to the MC outputs and running them back to the input. Then slowly cycling the MC until there are no more bubbles. Same setup when you do it in car just push the pedal slowly. Once you've done that then you connect the lines to the MC and bleed the calipers to remove air trapped in the lines. Many new or rebuilt MCs from parts stores come with plastic hose barbs that fit on the MC outputs to make bench bleeding easier. If you don't have that then the cheapest/shortest brake line you can find at a parts store will do. Make sure it threads into the MC and cut it to make hose barbs.

Sounds like you left the converter on the flywheel and pulled the trans off the converter. You wont hurt anything by doing that. It it worked before it will work again. There are ways to check auto trans but they involve disassembly. You would have to turn the converter around 1000 rpm to get any output. That's just not going to happen by hand.

Oh yeah, that event.

Bleeding at the calipers is different. Bleeder open, pedal down and hold, bleeder closed, pedal up. You can make a power self bleeder with a glass jar and a SQ vac pump. Put 2 nipples in the jar cap. I used x2 1.8" pop rivets then drilled through them. Then connect one nipple to the vac pump and the other to a caliper. Start the pump then open the bleeder. Close the bleeder when you get no more bubbles. Be careful and keep an eye on the MC. A power bleeder can drain the MC pretty quickly.

More than 700 with a G54B. A drag race starion that showed up at MOD was supposed to have 800+ but he's not on the forums.

Auto trans has a positive lock in park that prevents the wheels from turning when parked. Manual trans only has the friction it takes to turn the motor. People call it an e-brake but it's really a parking brake.

Same as a bench bleed just push the pedal slower.

Did you bench bleed the MC? If not there may be air in the system.

trace the lines to be sure

In the first few pages there are diagrams showing every connection and it's location.

Left is ECU and AC diag port. Look in the electrical section of the FSM to identify the others. www.starquestgarage.com

Pic #3 shows the wiper fluid resivour is still there. I only cut the corner of the metal battery tray. The trick is I ran about 8" of silicone hose from the IC to the first 90. That got me past the AC hose and washer resivour. Solid pipe couldn't bend around those. Only needed a slight bend.

That IC is from a 90s Izuzu NPR diesel truck.

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/MPI/DSC03952.jpg http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/MPI/DSC03849.jpg http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/MPI/DSC03843.jpg http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/MPI/DSC03797.jpg http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/MPI/DSC03798.jpg http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/MPI/PIC_1077.jpg

That user name isn't showing up. What's his old user name? I can reset the password so he has his old acct back.

It would help if you mentioned the user name he's registering with.

The large square unit still plugged in is the ECI relay. The rectangular unplugged one looks like the blower relay. It bolts to the blower motor iirc. The padding is for vibration/noise dampening.

If you get it going it's a good idea to keep a spare plastic knock box with screwdriver in the glove box. I did and it saved me from having to tow my SQ. Sitting at a light one day and the engine just shut off. Knock box was dead. Tossed in my spare and went home.

$100 ebay 6 puck. I may have gotten lucky but so far it has held 300hp. If I ever finish tuning my SQ I'll figure out what it holds. It's mated to a fidanza flywheel. On a side note, I went from TBI with stock clutch and stock flywheel to untuned MPI with 6 puck clutch and aluminum flywheel. With throttle tip in not tuned it was a really steep learning curve. I hadn't stalled a manual that many times since I was 16.

They are interchangeable but a volt meter will tell you more than just swapping parts. Check your ECI fuse link first. Check for power getting to the relay and to the knock box.

Yes, power in, dizzy signal in, good ground, no signal to coil = bad knock box. They can fail intermittently. Meaning fail when hot then work again for a bit after cooling off.

You can still buy them new from mitsubishi.

http://www.starquestgarage.com/ Everything is in PDF so you can save all of it to your computer. I suggest doing that because the website may not be there forever.

The 83-87 plastic knock boxes are known to fail the way you describe. The 88-89 metal boxes are more robust. But the connectors are different so it's not plug and play. I would try another knock box.