silverarrow89

Ohh hahaha.

Sept sound good?

Nothing better to do than start refurbing parts with new paint work too? Nice work my friend. Is this the same place you recommended getting my bumpers done, or is this a shop vs the mobile buy?

Thanks Jeff... super quick shipping, life should be as easy as this transaction.

*bump*

Am I correct, the red circled plastic piece is the one way valve?

Its THERE!, in the plugs and grommets.. shoot me a PM for shipping, 07470.

Ok... back again. For those who may have an issue with this hose in the future, its not as simple as buying a 11/32" brake hose, you need the check valve, on the OEM its in the hose.. the photo of the intake is not the check valve.. so, now I'm in search of: A. An alternative brake boost line from a DSM, Evo, STI, BMW, etc., which fits the application OR B. Taking the standard 11/32" hose I purchased and adding an aftermarket check valve If anyone has thoughts on which is better above (A or or if you're using a check valve on this or another car, could you recommend which check valve is best to hold the PSI needed?

Looking for the rubber plug for the condenser through the firewall on the passenger side, just above the cat.

T It was cut off when we pulled the motor... some 5+ years ago! I saw your build thread Tom... that was great work.. nice ride. I have a 3/8" brake boost hose and clamps going on today.

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/5039645995.html

Advance Auto was out of stock on 5/32" vac hose, since the check valve is in place, the only thing I need still is the hose correct? The OEM is long gone.

I think you're correct. I remember seeing it in my garage before the rebuild, it has a 6" black second sleeve over a portion of it, probably to protect it from the heat in the area. I'm looking into a braided steel line for $15. I'll post my findings.

I'll head over and pick some up this weekend. Does it get clamped, or no need? Thanks Charles.

And hence.. ...and hence why when driving around the block and without installing the new front rotors, calipers and pads, I said "Wow.. thats some serious wear on those original front brakes"... What does everyone use to replace the hose - part # MB277702?

See photos... I have them wrapped now, drivers side..just below the TB and on the firewall:

Looking for the carpet piece thats attaches in the back wall of the hatch area, has the two pop outs for getting to the taillights. Someone hacked mine all up nice and broke three clips.

2600cc and you get 1 rpm/cc, nice one.. no, no forget that, steer around the wall.. that was better! ... checked them one by one, got down to John's, and after pocking around for a boost leak, I come to find out it was the intake hose, that bends up from the IC hard pipe through the radiator support, Dale and I had a small mod to fit Kelley's radiator and the coupling slid back, disconnecting the flex and the hard pipe. Reconnected, started right up, and ran great for the first time in 7 YEARS. Thanks guys. My dad and I trailered this car from Maryland some 7 years ago, and we should have finished it together, but we lost him last year to a heart attack, so he never got to see it, a special day! Ok, so where's the next meet in NJ/NY/PA???? Dean

Niko, put me down for one.

Hi all, not sure there is an easy answer here, usually not.. but I'll keep my hopes up. I am having issues with a new build that sees the RPMs not go past 2500-2600 while driving. Basically, take it around the block, have to shift to higher gear when hitting that RPM, turbo is not heard, and factory boost gauge shows just past 7 lbs., cannot hear spooling. Rebuilt motor (Dad), factory 12A rebuild by G-Pop Shop to a Super 16G, EGR delete and throttle body rebuild using new delphi (925 and 675) by Brian, new radiator (Kelley), cat delete (straight downpipes), 3" exhaust, found TPS was bad (new unit tested and works), braided lines by Brian, new battery... everything else is basically stock. Did replace about 80% of the vacuum lines. Started for first time, ran well, heard turbo, kept throttle at about 2700RPM for 15 minutes or so, turned off, drained break in oil/oil additive, added second bottle of oil additive and oil to factory specs. Started again, set timing, reset the TPS (in the process though had an issue that fried one or two fusible links, replaced with new). Injector clips looked rough so replaced with new Bosch clips. Had the new injectors flow tested to make sure there was nothing in the fuel lines that may have clogged them on first start, flowed at 975 and 650 (more than rating). What else can I give anyone regarding information on whats going on to help troubleshoot? Trying to finally get this thing on the road, any help from anyone here would be GREATLY appreciated. Dean