Fuze

You read that right, yes the George Washington Bridge is $13 to cross.

Jersey City, approach to Holland Tunnel. The LS sounds nice under there.

Yeah, that thing is sitting correct. The back must scrub like crazy though, no? When I had 18's mine sat like this but I had to brutalize the inner fenders to make it work.

Just splice into the wires at the two plugs that connect to the stock fans that are held at the top of the shroud, or cut the plugs off the stock fans and solder them to the new ones. The wires at the bottom (sensor wires) are pre-relay, the ones that connect to the fans are after the relay and supply the power.

Yes sir it does. After four years it has some patina now, and I need to re-clear the carbon hood after some of the clear began coming off in the high heat areas. The paint is still hard to scratch and tough as heck but like you see on old matte hot rods, it's developing some character at the edges, and some vertical rain lines. Not as shiny as before but that was kinda the point. If I scrub it with dish soap it brings it back to a darker shade of black, but I basically never wash it, just hose it off lol. Peace

I like the Hachi Roku look, but I agree it would be good following the lower body crease all the way back. Black on the bottom of the car makes it look lower due to the lack of contrast near the ground (dark/dark). If you matte black for the lower part of the car, for sure low maintenance easy touch up.

Had no problem dropping in my CX SR20 rad. All I had to do was bend the lower perch a little bit, and made a couple little tabs for the top. I used two 10" or 12" fans (can't remember) with no shroud and it stays cool with one fan on. I don't run the thermosensors, I just don't trust them anymore so I have fan switches that turn off with ignition. I just jumpered a switch into the relay signal wires for the fans to ground the relays through the switches. When the switch is off, the thermos would work normally if I still ran them.

^^ 9's have a smaller lip than 8's, the center section is more concave so it comes out farther toward the edge of the rim. I prefer an 8 with a spacer to bring it out. Not like you can't run the same tires.

That rim ain't even round lol, hope it went to a 240 kid. Just my .02 but I like the bigger lip of an 8" better than the deeper dished center of a 9"... I'm prolly the only one though.

People also use the mechanical adjusters out of those old Porsche engines on the G54B mech lifter setups. They called them elephant foot adjusters because they have an articulated ball-joint "foot" on the end that touches the valve. A lot of them are junk though and come apart in the motor. Just some useless info for ya.

Nice Fiji whip, I like the wheels on it. Props for posting pics of yourself, I think you're bringing the creepers out though! Some of you guys need to spend a hour on 4chan's adult gif board lol.

Hey Niko you got a rendering or something? Just curious about how they will look. Thanks

So basically it's a 280/270 cam with similar lobe separation to a stocker. A new-old stock HKS cam would be nice, but I think we're probably limited to regrinds like Schneider's at this point unless they get made from scratch someplace.

Have fun. Wouldn't worry about the crazy effers too much.

That plug job was really sketchy. Leave them sticking up and let the head push them down.... huh? Finding a "wide" head gasket to seal them... huh? Why not just weld the holes closed?

http://www.akhbar-tech.com/sites/akhbar-tech.com/files/articleImages/hyperthreading_image2.gif

Meaningless threads are fun, but bomb throwing is funner.

OK, who's the first to spray their Starion? I dig it. Low maintenance paint is where it's at.

The new stangs are sharp looking. Pretty soon you'll see three of 'em everywhere you look... I admit I want a shot at the turbo four, little test drive to check rear traction limits...?

I'm not mad at the Supercoupes, My buddy had one when we were young and crazier and he drifted it all over the place with an auto trans. Long wheelbase made it stable as hell, supercharged v6 was fun. I wonder how they take mods, it'd be a unique choice. Stealth/3000gt vr4's are known to break trannies and are heavy pigs but would be an awesome platform to stand out if done right. When I was looking around for fun cars to abuse before I bought my winter truck I was looking for 90's era BMW 540i's, they come V8 with the 5 speed trans. Any 5-series really with a manual is a nice ride, 3 series' are also dirt cheap and are handling monsters. I also looked at Z31's, preferably the 89's. That VG30 engine can be swapped for a vg35 out of a Nissan quest (super cheap), slap the stock turbo setup on it and an FPR and you're making some decent power. Any motor will fit into one of those too. Of course, nothing beats an RX7 FC chassis with a v8 in it.

SUS PEN SION No doubt the best thing you can do if you're planning on turning.

SKID BRAKE! How did you mount that up sir? Been wishing there was a bracket for this kind of setup for an SQ to use a true hydro ebrake.

^^ Well, the guy is talking about the 2.0 head as having a bigger combustion chamber and dished valves, claiming it increases the cc's a little. That would be counter to a higher compression ratio, assuming the same head gasket is used. I get the how of this, I'm missing the why part though. Seems like a total lateral move, the heads are almost identical.

For recovery, a tow strap is fine and you can tuck it out of the way. The hooks won't save your airdam either, they aren't there for that. A mod I did on my Vette was to bolt a pair of skateboard wheels to either side, that sit lower than the splitter. On a Starion you'd have to fabricate something to mount that to but just an idea that works.

Pulling it the first time might take half the day. The second time, it takes about 30 minutes to pull it out once the wires and hoses are disconnected, and the rad is out. It's only 8 bolts to remove that hold the motor and trans in the car.