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New Product Available! Cannonball Run II - Rocker Panel Livery (Not AI) See details in the photo and feel free to message me for specifics. I also want the price to be more competitive, but for that I would need to consider group buy or if someone on here has connections with vinyl wrap printing. Thanks for looking!

How it going everyone. I just got back into another 87 Starion I grabbed out of New Mexico. Brought it back to El Paso and started to get to work. It needs a refresh has only 90Psi on all 4 cylinders but does run and move. Does have a few mods too. Has FIC Primary and Secondary injectors, FuelTech 450, and a tuned already uploaded. How true that part is I don’t know. It runs but has a noticeable misfire on it. Has a few other things I need to fix wiring wise as well and find some interior parts for it. But not to bad for $2000 for the shape. Once I figure out how to reduce picture size I’ll up load pictures. Car also came with original rear and side louvers. But if anyone in Texas or New Mexico has some parts let me know I’m looking for a few and have some extras I can potentially trade off. I need: Black center console right-side louver mount for the screw to go into Drum that the intake filter goes inside of driver side auto seatbelt motor Black hood latch handle thats the majority of what I’m looking for right now everything else is engine parts that are already on order to refresh the engine. Im glad to be back into one of these that’s for sure.

His name is Joseph Drake...long time SQ owner, super nice car. Steve

No longer needed found one thank for looking.

Going around the corners is a little tricky. I had to slice the back side of the U-channel of the edge trim with a razor blade to get it to fold around nice. Used a few dabs of 3M trim adhesive to hold it in position on the back side. Edge trim was sourced from McMaster-Carr. Leave the little gap on the bottom for moisture to run out...just like it was stock.

I agree with Crash. Bad shaft seals could certainly allow some smelly gases to escape, but I highly doubt it would be enough to classify as really bad or strong that you'd pick up in the cabin while driving. Shaft seals are about the diameter of a dime. You either have a exhaust manifold crack or it might be as simple as a exhaust gasket. Depending on your downpipe setup there's 2 joints - one at the turbo and one a bit lower by the trans. Also, if you don't find anything there - other things to consider - there is an oil feed line and coolant fed lines on the turbo that can weep or leak under boost and burn off on the hot turbo and create some pretty bad smells. My recommendation would be to buy a turbo gasket set and some exhaust gaskets, take everything apart, inspect your manifold thoroughly and reinstall everything with fresh gaskets.

“Full” story: There were 2 versions used in 85 and I did not receive pictures of the harness-side of the ECU which had two green plug receivers vs green and yellow. He contacted me Saturday and a replacement was UPS’d out Monday morning, with tracking. So yes, it was made right, immediately. -Starquest Steve

Found it and it tests good under vacuum and pressure. Should clean up well. The rust on the bottom side isn't bad. I'll send the whole distributor. I don't have a use for it since going MPI and ditching this unit. Shoot me a PM with your shipping address.

It's kinda quiet around here these days. Just thought I'd thow out a HELLO to all of us that are still here. Old and new. Hope you are all having a great night in the shop with your StarQuest. I know I am 😊

Only a few of the old-heads hang here anymore, but that's about it. It's sad. I'm in StarqeustClub FB group, I try to answer questions there too, but it's not that same. I'm gonna see if I can get the SOS to extract for me.

Hello All; As a owner and fan of European cars all of the 80's and 90's, I never owned a japanese car. But the Conquest/Starion ALWAYS caught my eye back in the late 80's. As I have retired, I now have a bit of time for a fun car. In the market for one but narrowed it down to: 1988 or 1989 only. And only a manual transmission. And overall condition would be no lower than say, 7 out of 10 condition. Should start/run fine, and all accessories (including AC) should work. Not seeking a modified car, but as close to stock as possible. Colors: Blue, Red, maybe black. And only black leather interior. I have tools and have done all of my cars' maintenace and most repairs, but really not seeking a project car (nor anything close to a project car) at this time. Yes, I know. Im seeking whats essentially a unicorn at this point. But Im in no rush and Im patient. If anyone has one for sale or knows of a reference who might be willing to sell, let me know. And yes, I've already found starquestparts.net, and have already been in contact with Steve as we are both in the same state. And yes, I have searches set up on marketplace and cargurus and I check other sites every other day or so as well. Thanks for having me here.

Hello! I did find one. Red exterior/black leather interior. Sunroof. 36k miles. Manual. Zero modifications (beyond window tint, which is still in great condition). Collector in PA was selling. He purchased from original owner in 2020, and he himself put about 2k miles on it since then. Ive been reading a ton on this forum, and on various FB groups. AC and HVAC writeups are quite helpful, as those are the two items needing attention (which I knew). But it starts/runs/drives great. Even has original suspension and upon looking at the shocks/struts, no leaks and the ride still feels fine. May eventually replace with coilovers next year but plan is to refurbish and fix what needs fixing, keep it as close to stock as possible, and possibly proactively go with a cylinder head that has no jet valve and replace chains/chain guides. But will be a garage queen with maybe 2k miles per year at most.

HaPpY BiRtHdAy party time

2026 Starion and Conquest meet July 24-26 in Pigeon Forge, TN NO STARION OR CONQUEST REQUIRED TO ATTEND. Hosted at Econo Lodge-Riverside in Pigeon Forge. Hotel link with the best price is in the comments. Book sooner than later. Rates will go up the closer we get to July. You don't have to stay at the host hotel. You can stay at any of the hundreds of hotels, motels, or vacation rentals in the area, but the gatherings will be at this Econo Lodge. This is the oldest, longest running annual Starion and Conquest meet in the USA--and likely longest running SQ meet the world! Since 1999, StarQuest enthusiasts have flocked to Pigeon Forge, TN every July for this meet. They also come to take in the numerous family friendly local attractions in the area effectively making the meet a mini vacation for the whole family. This once mighty meet hosted 50+ Starions and Conquests as well as 100+ people but attendance has dwindled over the years as the cars have gotten older and less reliable. In recent years we have had as many as 10 SQ's and as few as 3 SQ's. There is a core group of about 20 us that make it every year with or without a StarQuest. This meet has elevated to more of a StarQuest family reunion with a few SQs rather than being solely about the cars. The cars brought us together, but the friendships became the focus. Every year we have new and old faces. As stated boldly above, you do NOT have to bring a Starion or Conquest to attend. If you have a SQ that you can push, pull, or drag, we would love to see it! If driving or towing your SQ just isn't in the cards, just come hang out with us and BS about our shared interest in these cars or anything else that comes to mind. Most people show up without SQ cars. Our group is friendly and made up of a perfect balance of young/old and introverts/extroverts to keep it fun and exciting! There are usually weekend cruises to the infamous “Tail of the Dragon” which is an 11 mile stretch with 318 curves as well as what we like to call “Area 32” which is just as curvy as the Dragon. Drive it in your SQ or daily driver. They are a great experience no matter what car you drive! Since this is as much of a people meet as it is a car meet, you will find the most fun occurs in the evenings when we all come back together after the group dinner/s to hang out until the wee hours talking and enjoying some adult beverages. If you are not careful, you will walk away with lifelong friends! Several of us OG members discussed this meet back in November and rather than let this meet get too complicated, taking away from its laidback atmosphere, we will keep it simple. We will do an informal "mini" car show with a couple of trophies, a swap meet "timeslot", at least one Dragon run, and maybe a few door prizes, etc. for PF26. Otherwise it will be business as usual-which is doing whatever you want as long as you are available to hang out at some point. If you have read this far, that means you must have some curiosity or interest in joining us this year! If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, drop them in the comments of one of these posts in any of the groups they are posted in. Let's keep growing this meet to keep it alive for current and future enthusiasts!

Diane and I will be there! Looking forward to seeing old ( and new) friends again.

Facebook is the death of the internet. but Awesome I’ll download these and host them

Does anyone know what tires Mitsubishi equipped the Starquest with from the factory? All my build sheet says is the size and that they were RWL (raised white letter). Interested in this to keep the OG spirit alive! See image of my 1983 that I am getting back in the road.

Thanks, guys. I'll report back if I'm successful!

Years ago I mounted one from the side of the block. Forgive me for not remembering exactly where I bolted it but this allowed me to connect everthing to the front and rear of the block before re-installing it. Jimmy

I use the widest bottom bellhousing and the two top bellhousing holes. if you have the flywheel still attached you need to have some spacers

congrats on the purchase .starquestparts.net will have everything you need.

Just found some how to in the lube section.

Not sure if I’m in the right place but glad to be a new member of this forum. Recently purchased a 1989 Chrysler Conquest, manual trans. Back in 1984 I bought a Toyota Supra which was a reliable, fun car but remember seeing a Conquest and lusting over it. Better late than never! Waiting to get that PA registration back so I can drive it. The car has a couple of electrical issues but runs well. I’ll get them ironed out. Hopefully we have a few electric whizzes on this site who can steer me in the right direction.

Welcome! 10AWG is way to small. Especially with the 14AWG link. 10 is good for 30 amps. 14 is only rated for 15 amps. While charging you will see well over 50A up to 75A depending on the year alternator and condition, as well as the battery condition. #4 copper or 2 AWG aluminum is what you need for that load. Sounds a lot like a bad ground somewhere. If you take a meter to the + side of the relay when it should be energized and the other meter lead straight to the battery, does it read 12V? If so, it's definitely a ground issue. A lot of items are a switched ground setup. Meaning the 12V side is hot when the car is on and the ground switching is what turns on the relay. There should be a heavy ground from the block to the battery. I would check that first. Start taking resistance readings from the - battery terminal to different ground points and see what you get. Should be low resistance. Ideally single digits.

I’m not into collecting Hot Wheels but a friend of mine is and sent me this - apparently there will be a Starion offered for the first time. Looks like it’s the Dave Wolin #88 SCCA car livery, although I think that car was red (I have some original magazine ads where Mitsubishi was touting their Showroom Stock success with #88… I’d upload a picture if it wasn’t limited to 63kb). Anyway, pretty cool! https://www.instagram.com/p/DV134mKjq4l/

I saw that. Someone was also selling off a few prototype versions of the hot wheels diecast on ebay. I guess they were experimental body shapes that weren't selected for the production mold (although appeared to be better representations than the one that was selected). I probably should have snagged one of those when I saw them, but I don't go out of my way for novelty items like this. Now just wait, with my luck those things will be worth like 10 grand in a few years or something haha.

Cool! I got the blue one of these to match my Fiji Blue project. https://ebay.us/m/YD1Esn

Forgot to add pictures, the paintjob has been going great. Just need to start cutting the orange peel down and polishing. The wheel wells needed serious fiberglass love but the car itself was in great condition aside from those pesky rusted areas. As soon as I have my front bumper arranged and front air dam skirt solved, I will take some nice pictures for everyone!

G54B Exhaust Manifold - MKS Motorsport Mikie is a great guy with tons of parts for our cars. Make sure the rear most exhaust stud is not broken or stripped out causing a leak. That was a VERY common issue with these cars since they didn't have a flex section in the exhaust system.

Also just saw another SQ sighting in season one of Veronica Mars (decent fun show FWIW). Will have to poke around the site here. Been quite a while away, but I still have the Starion. Finally garaged but in much need of TLC, after sitting out for several years of weathering. 🙁

Let's see some installed pictures

Hope to have an update on my starions soon. Been busy with work, my house and my grand kid. Need to make time for my cars. Hope you all are doing ok!

Underrated color

I have also been watching this. Especially since I have an 87 Valencia in the garage 😄

fitment was perfect.pretty impressive for a small work force.im waiting for the factory wing thats why asked.radio bezel nice too .want him to make shifter bezel and seat belt release panel too.had to wrap those.

No problem. It has been a long time since I did it, but I need to do this on my black conquest too. Wind noise is very noticeable without this gasket!

try starquestparts.net steve has it all.

Got me exited. Add me to the list of wanting a cheap rust and bondo free 83 hood LOL.

Not sure why, but I like these better than the US markers https://photos.app.goo.gl/ASKLYuGQPfA1Qqa86

I first them on that Japanese RB swapped Starion and checked yahoo auctions daily for about a year until I saw an unbroken set edit here it is https://www.speedhunters.com/2017/01/drift-rb26-swapped-starion/

I've experienced this same issue multiple times. Can't fully explain it, electrical is not my strong point, but when the clutch is engaged, it enables the clutch switch used for the cruise control (basically like an inhibitor switch on an automatic but only used to disengage the cruise control if the clutch is depressed on a manual). I can't remember if it closes the circuit or opens it when the switch is engaged. Anyways, I've noticed that the idle is absolutely affected depending on when the clutch is depressed or not. How and why...I don't know but it is I proved it by pulling the switch off the pedal and depressing it by hand. How I fix this is to rerun the TSC/ISC reset procedure until it resolves the issue. Basically, depress the switch and run the TSC/ISC and set the idle accordingly. Then see how it runs after the switch is let go. Tweaking the idle settings between the two. For a quick fix if you don't use cruise, unplug the switch and see how it runs (or connect the leads depending on the 'normal operation'...like I said, I can't remember if the circuit is normally open or closed when the clutch pedal isn't engaged). As much as I love these cars, I hate our engine management systems especially anything pertaining to idle. I've done the TSC/ISC reset over 20 times on a single day until I got it to be somewhat what I wanted it to be during all operating conditions...and it still goes erratic at times but won't stall.

That will happen. Well Mikie used to have them. Looks like he's out of stock now though https://mksmotorsport.com/product/vacuum-advance-oem-g54b/ I'll take a look around the shop. I may have one. If I find it and it tests good I'd send it for the price of shipping. That may not be THE problem, but you can at least move on from there.

I would put the 3D molds in the BS Forum so it will get the most views. After that I can move them to an appropriate Forum, leaving a link in BS Forum so they can be easily found. Jimmy

Adding a quick update to this thread...I've been in discussions with a member on FB who is rebuilding his transmission as I write this. I was able to dig out the custom tool I made to pull the large center bearing off the main shaft for transmission disassembly. Note: that I lost the photos of this step in the process. Also note, that I made a similar tool for the input shaft bearing removal prior to realizing that I could remove the input shaft and bearing as a whole on an 88/89. Here are the tools. I made these out of 4140 steel, which is pretty high strength. This may have been overkill. I also wrapping them around the bearing as much as I could to limit flange deformation....again, may have been overkill. The lip is only .050" thick in order to get between the underside of the bearing flange and the transmission case. As seen, I used some scrap hollow structural steel and tacked it to the tool halves once around the bearing....being that the material was 4140, it doesn't take kindly to welding and my tacks broke...which caused no issue. Thus disregard this feature, it isn't needed. The holes are drilled/tapped to 1/2-13 thru and I used ASTM A193 B7 all thread rod (which is basically 4140 steel too) as the extension to a standard puller bar. Obviously, these were made on a lathe and mill. I had access to a local machine shop at the time who let me create these while on my lunch breaks at work at the time. Probably more elaborate than most would have done, but you can use the principle to design something similar. I use to have actual drawings of these but they were also lost with the photos. But they are easy to make...measure the diameter of the bearing flange and the bearing body with a .050" thick lip. The total thickness of these are 1/2". Definitely could try a much more crude tool made out of 1018 or A36 steel with 1/2-13 nuts welded to them in lieu of the tapped holes. I don't have a tranny a part to show the setup on but thought I'd at least post pictures of the tool on one of my spare center bearings. The member on FB ended up not using anything like this but rather setting up the transmission in a harbor freight shop press and pressed down on the main shaft...using the transmission case to resist the bearing as the shaft was pushed off of it. He has a nice little video of it on FB showing the process, which I'm trying to figure ou how to link here. He said he may put it up on youtube for the purpose....I'll update this if he does.

I have 3 styles of Wheel center caps made from ABS plastic $31.95 a set of 4 You can get them @ www.dadsengineparts.com - In section Miscellaneous

Is this BOV something you'd be interested in? I've had it for years, was planning to run it for the period correct coolness but my car came with a perfectly good Greddy on it so I'd be okay with letting it go. I have tested it and it works. Would look amazing polished up with some new stainless hardware. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.

I've got the HKS intake plumbing and bypass valve, but not really looking to get rid of it at the moment. I do have period correct Greddy/Trust parts that I don't mind getting rid of I have: Greddy Profec-A (fuzzy logic) boost controller, all wiring, sensors, manual Greddy Rebic III auxillary fuel controller with wiring, manual Greddy fuel injectors, bosses welded into an over valve cover pipe Greddy Rebic III simulator with connector cable to connect to rebic III, manual Greddy Turbo Timer The Greddy parts were pulled from my car, working when I moved to MPFI with AEM

well they never sent me the files but here's a look at the pull with the SAE correction factor applied. Again, to get an accurate comparison, I'll have to either make, hey wait, I have the old graph files. I'll just make them SAE and post them up for comparison. I'm a genius. I see it as 33.6HP gain for about a 2 ft/lb torque loss. Not too shabby. I bet this cam degreed would yield even more HP gain but actually start to lose some torque but I'm pretty happy with it where it is. the other thing I notice is that this cam is bringing torque on about 200RPM sooner and keeping it on about 500rpm longer, which probably explains why the car "feels" so much faster. It basically broadened the power band by 700 RPM. on the stock cam torque is above 300ft/lbs from 3400rpm to 5000rpm. with the 292 it's above 300 from 3300rpm to 5500 or even 5600 it looks like on one pull. Here's the new one with the 292 http://webpages.charter.net/chiplee/300a.JPG and the old one with the same SAE correction and 5 smoothing like we used today. Compare away http://webpages.charter.net/chiplee/stock%20cam.JPG

The a/c relays are the small square ones bolted to the bracket near the ignition coil. Three run the fans, the 4th runs the compressor clutch. The clutch relay has green+white, yellow+white, black+white, and blue+red wires feeding it. If it clicks, the a/c computer is trying to run the system. No clicks? Then keep reading... The a/c system has a couple sensors that prevent it from engaging. One is the "dual pressure switch" which is one of the sensors screwed into the metal a/c line near the passenger headlight - at the receiver/dryer canister. One sensor will have a small two-wire connector that looks like a double-barrel shotgun (siamesed cylinders) and the other is a plain connector with green+yellow and green+white wires. Disconnect the plain one and jumper across the pins in the harness. If your a/c now starts, either your refrigerant pressure is low (refrigerant leak someplace) or too high (unlikely). This switch kills the a/c if there isn't enough refrigerant to maintain a minimum system OFF pressure... this protects the compressor from running on a dry system and not getting its oil. The switch also opens if the refrigerant pressuge gets way too high (thus the "dual" nature of the switch - low and high pressure sensitive) to keep hoses from bursting. The other sensor is an engine coolant temp sensor. If the engine is about to overheat, the a/c is disabled. This sensor commonly disintegrates internally. Look for a one-wire sensor in the thermostat housing with a yellow+white wire. Unplug that wire and hook it to ground. If the a/c now runs, the sensor is kaputt. I'll bet the connector prong on the sensor wiggles/twists... mike c.