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New Product Available! Cannonball Run II - Rocker Panel Livery (Not AI) See details in the photo and feel free to message me for specifics. I also want the price to be more competitive, but for that I would need to consider group buy or if someone on here has connections with vinyl wrap printing. Thanks for looking!

Most likely BK227WS with the 24mm, with the snap ring, input bearing. The BK227AWS is for non-intercooled applications and has the 21mm bearing. Although, I have seen an 87 transmission with the flanged input shaft bearing! Maybe a fluke...maybe someone replaced the pan or something. Not sure, but it was a stamped steel pan KM132 out of an 87 and had the 88/89 input shaft bearing in it! That kit will give you the main ball bearings, syncs, and gaskets/seals needed to do a basic rebuild. It will not have the needle roller bearings that are in each gear set. It won't have the retainer or shift works as well. It does include a main shaft nut though. But, more importantly, it doesn't include the shims needed to shim your countershaft. That was the biggest **** when I rebuilt mine. Mitsubishi sold the shims individually. I ordered a few based on some quick measurements. Came from Japan, 4-6 weeks. Turns out, when I torqued everything down, I had more play than measured and needed to order a thicker shim. Ordered a few more of different sizes...again 4-6 weeks. Have no clue if they are still available or not. If I had to do it again, I think I would work with a local machine shop to have some custom shims made for it. Coupled with the lack of available parts, the disassembly is a PIA. Lots of frustrations with pulling the bearings including making custom pullers, etc. I recently added a few more photos to the end of my KM132 rebuild thread in the FAQ forum to show my custom main shaft center bearing puller. I also saw a guy on FB use a harbor freight 20T press to drive out the bearing. Not that I'm advocating a swap, I hate swaps, even if it is just the tranny....but, it may be the easier way to go (and more enjoyable/rewarding).

you may think its expensive but the great thing is they still sell them.also if we dont support mks,dads,etc we will regret it when they are gone.its harder and harder to find parts.thank you guys for still doing it.

Hey Guys and Gals, check out our new website Dads Engine Parts Dad

No longer needed found one thank for looking.

Going around the corners is a little tricky. I had to slice the back side of the U-channel of the edge trim with a razor blade to get it to fold around nice. Used a few dabs of 3M trim adhesive to hold it in position on the back side. Edge trim was sourced from McMaster-Carr. Leave the little gap on the bottom for moisture to run out...just like it was stock.

I agree with Crash. Bad shaft seals could certainly allow some smelly gases to escape, but I highly doubt it would be enough to classify as really bad or strong that you'd pick up in the cabin while driving. Shaft seals are about the diameter of a dime. You either have a exhaust manifold crack or it might be as simple as a exhaust gasket. Depending on your downpipe setup there's 2 joints - one at the turbo and one a bit lower by the trans. Also, if you don't find anything there - other things to consider - there is an oil feed line and coolant fed lines on the turbo that can weep or leak under boost and burn off on the hot turbo and create some pretty bad smells. My recommendation would be to buy a turbo gasket set and some exhaust gaskets, take everything apart, inspect your manifold thoroughly and reinstall everything with fresh gaskets.

“Full” story: There were 2 versions used in 85 and I did not receive pictures of the harness-side of the ECU which had two green plug receivers vs green and yellow. He contacted me Saturday and a replacement was UPS’d out Monday morning, with tracking. So yes, it was made right, immediately. -Starquest Steve

Found it and it tests good under vacuum and pressure. Should clean up well. The rust on the bottom side isn't bad. I'll send the whole distributor. I don't have a use for it since going MPI and ditching this unit. Shoot me a PM with your shipping address.

It's kinda quiet around here these days. Just thought I'd thow out a HELLO to all of us that are still here. Old and new. Hope you are all having a great night in the shop with your StarQuest. I know I am 😊

Hi everyone, I was able to get the car to start-- nothing serious. Removing the sparkplugs and reseating them and getting a new battery did the trick. It's been my weekend driver, wonderful vehicle and I love it. I don't like to drive it when many people are out though for the reason in the title. It was pointed out to me about two weeks ago and I'm trying to figure out for the life of me why this would be an issue. Two months into ownership, I'm really impressed with the care this car was given by the previous owner. There was a thread posted here, maybe a decade back that someone said you'd see rear brake light and rear blinkers not working if there was an issue with the hazard button on the dash hood. I don't seem to have any issues there. I also can't find the thread again, unfortunately. My front hazard mode works fine, my front blinkers will blink and I'm all good. If there's any where I should start besides changing out the bulbs or something (already went through that, got a whole set of bulbs for every lamp and fixture for the car), it'd be appreciated. Just to reiterate, my rear blinkers and brake lights are not working. I'm able to turn on the rear lights otherwise, that doesn't seem to be an issue either! The body work has been going well otherwise, all the rust has been removed and I've made myself a fiberglass mold that I've printed on a 3d printer for the rocker trims for the 85 flatbody that have rotted. This has been a wonderful process and I can't stop loving this car. (Would be happy to pass the .stl for it if any of you have a flatbody. I couldn't find the original part when looking it up, so I figured I'd just draft it up!) I've also fixed the upholstery on the driver's seat. Looks and feels good as new.

That title heading needs an explanation. In 2016 when I had the car painted during restoration, the paint shop told me not to wax the car for the first year. Well, 1 year turned into 2 years, into 3, into 4 ... now its 9 years later. I haven't washed the car with actual water in probably the last 4 or 5 years. (I really do not like washing Starquests due to the foam front bumper support holding water and rotting out the bumper support). The car is garage kept, only driven on nice days and I've always used a Griot's Speed Shine spray wax on it - so it's not like the paint is seeing any abuse, but for whatever reason I was thinking about it this week and I felt like today was the day. Gave it a quick wash Went over the whole car with a clay bar. And then waxed it with some Meguiar's Mirror Glaze. I got this stuff for Christmas from a good friend. I've never really been a user of Meguiar's products, so this was my first time ever using this. I'm impressed. FYI - All these photos are unedited. No filters, just my phone as is. And I took a minute to polish the exhaust tips, which I haven't done in a while. All in all, a pretty meaningless post, but I haven't posted anything meaningful in a while - so why not some pictures of the car! Just trying to keep this forum alive. 👍

Dad aka Randy Gaines, a long time trusted member and part supplier for our cars offers this on his website: https://dadsengineparts.com/dep/productview.php?product_id=Inline Fuel filt Jimmy

Adding a quick update to this thread...I've been in discussions with a member on FB who is rebuilding his transmission as I write this. I was able to dig out the custom tool I made to pull the large center bearing off the main shaft for transmission disassembly. Note: that I lost the photos of this step in the process. Also note, that I made a similar tool for the input shaft bearing removal prior to realizing that I could remove the input shaft and bearing as a whole on an 88/89. Here are the tools. I made these out of 4140 steel, which is pretty high strength. This may have been overkill. I also wrapping them around the bearing as much as I could to limit flange deformation....again, may have been overkill. The lip is only .050" thick in order to get between the underside of the bearing flange and the transmission case. As seen, I used some scrap hollow structural steel and tacked it to the tool halves once around the bearing....being that the material was 4140, it doesn't take kindly to welding and my tacks broke...which caused no issue. Thus disregard this feature, it isn't needed. The holes are drilled/tapped to 1/2-13 thru and I used ASTM A193 B7 all thread rod (which is basically 4140 steel too) as the extension to a standard puller bar. Obviously, these were made on a lathe and mill. I had access to a local machine shop at the time who let me create these while on my lunch breaks at work at the time. Probably more elaborate than most would have done, but you can use the principle to design something similar. I use to have actual drawings of these but they were also lost with the photos. But they are easy to make...measure the diameter of the bearing flange and the bearing body with a .050" thick lip. The total thickness of these are 1/2". Definitely could try a much more crude tool made out of 1018 or A36 steel with 1/2-13 nuts welded to them in lieu of the tapped holes. I don't have a tranny a part to show the setup on but thought I'd at least post pictures of the tool on one of my spare center bearings. The member on FB ended up not using anything like this but rather setting up the transmission in a harbor freight shop press and pressed down on the main shaft...using the transmission case to resist the bearing as the shaft was pushed off of it. He has a nice little video of it on FB showing the process, which I'm trying to figure ou how to link here. He said he may put it up on youtube for the purpose....I'll update this if he does.

Hey everybody, Hope this post finds you all well, I have been lurking for a little while and watching lots of videos to see what I'd be getting myself into with getting myself a Dodge Conquest/Mitsubishi Starion. Really love their look, flat or wide body. I recently got an 85 Conquest from a friend who had it laying in storage. I like to think it's in pretty good condition and the interior is a real gem. The digital dash is to die for, and there's just something all too charming about the car as a whole. I know that I'm in for some surprises with a 40 year old car, but I'm excited to start. I've studying up as much as I can about the G54B and some common failure points from you guys, and I know I'm in for a very fun ride. The only real issues on it seem to be a head gasket related problem, some minor panel rust on the wheel wells, and some clear-coat separation on the hood. I'm excited to get this thing punched up and looking beautiful. A little about myself: I am a software developer and studied electrical engineering. I live in Texas. New homeowner and starting a family soon (I hope!) I'd like to see myself in manufacturing one day, but programming just seems to pay the bills a little better. I like to program for fun too, I work a lot on signals processing as a matter of hobby and real-time optimizations for graphics rendering, but my heart will always be stuck on seeing something real and physical and I hope to be in a field that'll let me do that before I die. My family used to run a machine shop and I was raised in that, and I miss the days of being able to ask my dad, "Hey, I want to make something..." and he'd show me. Life story aside, I hope to get to continue getting great information and insight from you guys and that I won't try your patience too much when I ask a question or seven. Thanks again!

Here's some more pictures. These were kindly taken by my friend who offered me the car. Very excited to get in and do some deep cleaning but, just looking at everything, it really appears to be in fine condition compared to the few I've found around Texas that I could get within my budget and repair-tolerance. Gas tank is definitely first on the list in terms of things. Undercarriage looked great too. He did a wonderful job of keeping this in good of shape as one could for 40 years old when it was his occasional driver. I've scoped out a reasonable budget to make it run, and some overflow to "make it OEM+" (as my mechanic friend puts it). But, first things first is just hitting those common problems as discussed. Thanks for the warm welcome, guys. Here's a picture where you can see the rust on the rear panel wheel well a little more clearly. I'm not too worried about that, all things can be fixed in time.

That response has you rebuilding the bottom end ... cleaning the block and putting in new bearings. If you just had a blown head gasket you could literally just pull the head and leave the block in the car and replace the gasket. Depending on the severity of the situation, of course, but that response is more of a total engine rebuild.

Ha, yea i miss it.

I have 3 styles of Wheel center caps made from ABS plastic $31.95 a set of 4 You can get them @ www.dadsengineparts.com - In section Miscellaneous

An update so you don't all think I died and the quest will never be finished. Dumpy is coming along nicely, Like all projects a full disassembly is done. A bit of driveline maintenance and detail. And lets make it a dump bed so its useful. Some suspension work. And the body work. This is Home Depot Rust oleum paint done in a dirty shed on the cheap. And now it looks like this. Working on the snow plow now. Also it seems the barn addition was approved by my financial adviser and that opens up room for a paint booth. I'm booked with projects over the winter but next year I plan to jump back on the quest.

Have you used Send Cut Send? They are a great online platform for getting simple bracketry made in small or large batches.. if you like your prototype, upload your cad file to their website, select your material and finishes (they can powdercoat).. and you'll be given an instant quote for how much at different purchase volumes.

I'd buy one myself.

make a 3 off and I'll buy 2

Great question and thanks for following up. I still have the pump and starting designing a new PS bracket in CAD, but never finished it. We recently got a water jet cutter at work, so I do want to get back to working on this (since my OEM pump still leaks). I'm about 100% sure the pump is going to work, it just a matter of designing a bracket and getting it in the right position so the belt tensions properly. If I ever work entirely through this, I'll share my solution, but it's going to be on the user to recreate my bracket design. I'll probably only ever have a one-off one made for myself. Unless, I can find a small shop to make a batch of them or something.

Thanks. Although in my haste to get the car to the inspection, I rushed things a bit. Started working on that fender on Saturday. Within a minute of block sanding, I realized that I had my work in store for me. DAing with 80grit and NOT taking it to bare metal, when it had three layers of paint on there, was not a good idea. Should have spent the time to come back with 220grit and taken it to bare. Because that is essentially what I had to do this weekend, but I did it with 320 grit wet and a LOT of blocking. So, a bit of rework and wasted epoxy. I basically used the epoxy as a guide coat. Did find one additional low spot that will need filler in the process...which was a positive. The rest though...a setback. Oh well, things happen. Better to make mistakes now, prior to final paint. Didn't take any photos. Was feeling very much under the weather this weekend and didn't do anything additional. Also, the car isn't running the best. Erratic idle, bit choppy acceleration. O2 code is not going away. Think it may have died, for my cheapo narrowband O2 sensor is acting erratic as well. Although, I don't have a t-stat in the car at the moment because I put some cleaner in the system and will be doing a good flush. Will need to address this soon, perhaps after I get the body panels blocked/wet sanded smooth. More to come...just not enough hours in a day to keep up with everything in life. Doesn't help when I get some type of bug and am laying in bed for the better portion of the weekend.

I bought a nice kenwood head unit because I wanted BT. turns out my rear passenger speaker was grounding itself?? Me and a buddy messed around for awhile and we got it to work a couple of times, but it was doing something weird where it was grounding itself throughout the car side harness and getting VERY hot. Decided to take pins out for the speakers and lo and behold disconnecting the rear speaker sold my problem. I’m pretty sure it never worked with the factory head unit so I think it was trying to ground itself? I don’t know lol. It works now though 😆 anyway, thank you guys for the responses!

Some more progress. I had really hoped to get more done this weekend, but my garage was so hot and humid (my mini-split system died over the winter..which was planned to be replaced this past spring if this accident didn't happen). So, here is what the car looks like currently. The car is functional and I took it out for a drive a week or so ago. Have also driven it out and into the garage bay a few times since. BTW: when I connected my wiring in the engine bay after the engine install, I inadvertently didn't connect the ground that goes to the EGR valve for the ECU system. It was close enough to have contact to fire up the engine, but then it arced. I literally saw the arc to the fuel filter....scary!!! It blew out the brown fusible link and shut the car down. I couldn't believe the amount of smoke emitted from that little fusible link! Took the time to clean up all three grounds pertaining to the ECU system (the one on the EGR, the one behind the igniter box, and the one up in the passenger side corner by the airbox). And a new brown fusible link from DAD...fixed! I also had a leak on my primary inject o-ring...adding to the scare of the electrical arc to the fuel system! So, got some new injector seals from DAD on the same order...fixed! I'm really happy how the core of the actual 'car' came out. Now it is on the cosmetic stuff. Focus has been mainly on the bumper support. This is my spare bumper support that I got off a parts car I had back in 2003. It has been sitting on a shelf since. But, as always, there is rust. The lower flange was rusted pretty good with some internal rust. I cut it open and removed the 'outer' sheet on the lower pinch flange...for there was barely any remaining from it. Did a good blasting and used some scrap sheet to restore the lower flange. Tacked on stainless washers and nuts to restore the bolting features. I really 'should' do further patchwork on the structure where it started rusting through, but I don't think I will. Going to put it in two coats of epoxy primer. Then will either use fiberglass to seal up the holes or seam sealer. My goal is simply to keep it from rusting further. After some cutting/grinding: After blasting: After restoring the lower flange: After a good 'bath' in rust convertor: I had a goal of finishing this car by July 28...for I scheduled my yearly state inspection that day (it expires in July). Not sure I'm going to make it. I still have to finish this bumper support and then get on to the repairs to the front spoiler. After that, it is sanding down the bumper, header panel, fender, marker lights and paint prepping them. I already know I have a ding in the fender than needs to be addressed and I'm sure I'll find some other minor areas to putty. Lots of prepping and will need primer, probably twice in the process. Then BC/CC followed by wet sanding/buffing. Too much for two weeks, especially with only working a bit on weekends. I may slap this thing back together just enough to get it through the inspection. I don't like lapsing the state inspection, for I 'could' make this road worthy in just a few hours if I had to use the car.

This is a great idea! Adding it to my list.

should probaly pick up the steering coupler from mks motorsports

I figured it out thank you all. I broke the solenoid nipple when I was redoing my hoses found the upper side had a weird valve I think it’s a reefs valve. It was messed up couldn’t blow or suck through so I vented it atmosphere. It runs so much better full boost no hiccups for now.

I'll definitely post up with what I find out, but it might be a little bit - like fall or winter. Other than that the initial puff of burnt oil the car is running really well and I'm in the middle of a building a garage at the new house, restoring a Galant VR-4 with my son and I bought a new turbo for the Eclipse almost 2 years ago I'd like to get installed and tuned, so barring anything crazy the Starion is kinda on the back burner for now. Honestly, I don't think I would ever build another G54B at this point. If something were to happen to my current motor, I'd swap - just not sure to what. I'm kinda between 4G63, 5.0 and 1JZ. I'm still kicking myself for not buying all the 4G63 stuff from you when you moved.

Congrats and Welcome aboard! 🥳 Let's see some interior pics. I agree that year digital dash and all the sounds it makes are pretty cool! We are here to help you on this journey! P.S. Also an Electrical Engineer here with a title of Controls Engineer. Lots of PLC and Robotic coding for me, among MANY other tasks

welcome to the family.it looks like a good starting point.technica nice too.ya the jet valve head is not the best.but dads engine parts can get you a head and everything you need to make it even better.good luck and have fun.

Top End Performance in Cali is still offering rebuilding of stock rear struts with 3 choices of strut inserts

Just do it. Then report back 😃

I love Starquest wheels. One if the few production cars that IMO came eith the perfect set of wheels.

Oh, I just realized what I'd used for a prompt. Well, to better answer your question, there is a blown head gasket, but we're using the opportunity to also modify a few things. It's possible the word "rebuild" overstates what I'm actually doing, but we are do have some changes in mind too. Plus the body work, interior restoration, and repaint.

Time for another update on the weekend's progress: I think you all probably know that I can't leave things alone, haha. I scuffed up the black epoxy. Some of the filler work I did had pin holes in it (as expected because it was such a quick job), so I used a little glaze putty to fill them. Then reshot with serbia black BC. No clear, for I wanted it to have a more of a satin look to match the rest of the engine compartment. I think it came out good, although I still need to unmask to see how close it really is. I still don't like that corner, but I really need to accept it for what it is...for I'm not going back now. Sprayed the headlight bucket as well, which use to be burgundy. The bracket on the left was bead blasted to bare metal, two coats of epoxy and two coats of BC. The bucket itself was just a quick wipe down and one coat of BC (It's fully hidden but didn't like the burgundy overspray on it) And while I had the spray gun out, I decided to work on my project that was in process prior to the collision..refurishing my spare set of 7/8s. I had these all polished up over the winter but needed the insets painted. I really do wonder if the accident would have ever happened if I had finished this project earlier (with new rear tires on). Really curious to see how these look after removing the tape...I haven't touched them since, just letting the paint cure well.

Its always good to get a health check on a engine before disassembly. I at the minimum would want actual oil pressure readings hot at idle and where the bypass is, compression test and leak down test. You will have 1 or 2 cylinders that will give you poor reading do to the HG blown probably but it will let you know the conditions of the rings, cylinders, valves, jet valves, head if cracked. A few minutes can give you a lot of info.

Was this just for s**** and giggles or are you really looking into a full rebuild over a blown head gasket? X2 what @techboy suggested. To add to cylinder head inspection, look for any hairline cracks in between valves and sparkplug holes.

This week's progress: Got the affected areas of the engine compartment in epoxy primer. The first coat laid a good satin finish, but I added two more coats heavy which resulted in some gloss...typical for the primer I use. Normally this is a good thing, but I was trying to get more of a satin look to match the rest of the compartment. I wanted to get the epoxy nice and thick though such that it does its job. I drive this car, it isn't a garage queen like my other cq, so I want the coatings to be durable. Still debating if I'm going to leave it as-is or lay a thin coat of just Serbia Black base (with no clear). That's as far as I went this weekend because I put my attention on my blue cq and got it going for the season (not bad because I did both of these in the same day). Although, I did compare the core support on it to this car (not sure why I didn't do this prior). In all, I probably should have spent more time on that corner to get it looking a bit closer to stock but I'm not fussing with it anymore at this point. Everything lines up and the repair isn't too obvious.

I have one of those cassettes! Came with the original owners manual and cover for my 87 Starion. Not for sale though. I do remember hearing the audio online somewhere. Edit: Found it.

It’d be cool if I found one of them just laying around

Thanks! By drilling out the spot welds and removing that piece of sheet metal shown in the photo above, the one that is bare steel, it allowed me to bend the rail easily. Also enabled me to reshape that piece of sheet metal on the anvil with a hammer/dolly. I did fabricate a brace for my homemade lever bar such that when I pried, it transferred the load right back on the area that was kinked. I forgot to snap a photo of this. A member is hooking me up with the marker light, just need to find the time to drive out to his place and pick it up! But hoping to work a bit more tomorrow on the gaps. Maybe get far enough to start working on the original bumper support. I'm getting anxious to do a full front-end mockup with all the parts to verify fit up before moving into paint prep. My original goal was to do this so well that you'd never know it was hit. But being that I didn't have replacement steel for the core support, etc., I'm not sure that will be fully possible. But I'll get it such that it passes the sniff test...as in, with the hood open, I want it good enough that you would really have to look in detail to see evidence of the impact. Wish me luck, haha

Dealer had it for sale Nov 2022. Sold it $23k Tjen it was posted for $24k on consignment I assume by the current seller. Exterior was painted OR newer decals added. That truly sucks in my opinion. First year widebody 1986 was the only year with the small TSi fender stickers and TSI badging on the rear. Now it has 87-89 decals on a 36k mile car. If I was buying a 36k mile car, it better be 100% original. That turns me off big time.

I was going to say, our cars don't have upper ball joints.

Never mind I am just dumb and didn't look at the manual

I'm still on the hunt for a passenger side marker light. I can't believe I don't have a spare of my own. I found three drivers side ones! I do want to try to find new oil cooler lines, for the hit kinked them a little bit. Worst case is that I make up my own braided lines. And the air can is a bit deformed, which I probably will be able to straighten but is very low priority at this point. Once I get the gaps finalized and everything welded solid, I'm going to attempt to restraighten the original steel bumper support. It is basically rust free and I really would like to see if it is salvageable (but it is bent pretty bad). As seen in the photos, my spare is a bit of a rust bucket. Also, can you believe that is the original hood that I haven't even touched! By carefully pulling the mangled body panels off, it sprung back. The passenger side corner is sitting a little high, but I believe I can correct it. I'm hoping to retain this thing. I have an available spare (would need to take 3 hour drive to pick it up tho) but it isn't black. With the cost of paint nowadays, I prefer not to paint the underside. I eventually want to put my spare 83 hood on this car, but not until after my kids are out of the house and no longer driving this thing. So rather put the effort into that one in the future.

I personally don't know anyone who has one, let alone someone who has one for sale. That said, if you do some digging on here there was someone years ago who had posted a link to the audio file. If that file is still around and you have some graphic art skills you might be able to ship the cassette image and recreate it? Heck, I think I'm talking myself into this.

Finally purchased the remaining parts needed to install the Motocam MS3 engine management system. Rebuild the rear suspension two years ago. Plans are to have it on the road soon and mechanically sorted by fall. Then to tackle the horrible color change.