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Great fitting Silicone vacuum lines, fits 4.0 and 4.5mm ports on Conquest and Starion, nice snug fit. $1.25 a foot. http://www.dadsengineparts.com

Hello all...It's been a long time since I've been here. I apologize for my absence, but life took a turn and I had to focus on other things. I've had several texts, calls, and emails over the years. It's been great to hear from some of you. We just bought our first house, and while going through boxes and such, came upon one of the calendars I did for the club. A lot of good memories came rushing back, so decided to log on and see what's what. I hope the SQ community is still going strong. Give a shout and say hi. Cheers, Nick

Most likely BK227WS with the 24mm, with the snap ring, input bearing. The BK227AWS is for non-intercooled applications and has the 21mm bearing. Although, I have seen an 87 transmission with the flanged input shaft bearing! Maybe a fluke...maybe someone replaced the pan or something. Not sure, but it was a stamped steel pan KM132 out of an 87 and had the 88/89 input shaft bearing in it! That kit will give you the main ball bearings, syncs, and gaskets/seals needed to do a basic rebuild. It will not have the needle roller bearings that are in each gear set. It won't have the retainer or shift works as well. It does include a main shaft nut though. But, more importantly, it doesn't include the shims needed to shim your countershaft. That was the biggest **** when I rebuilt mine. Mitsubishi sold the shims individually. I ordered a few based on some quick measurements. Came from Japan, 4-6 weeks. Turns out, when I torqued everything down, I had more play than measured and needed to order a thicker shim. Ordered a few more of different sizes...again 4-6 weeks. Have no clue if they are still available or not. If I had to do it again, I think I would work with a local machine shop to have some custom shims made for it. Coupled with the lack of available parts, the disassembly is a PIA. Lots of frustrations with pulling the bearings including making custom pullers, etc. I recently added a few more photos to the end of my KM132 rebuild thread in the FAQ forum to show my custom main shaft center bearing puller. I also saw a guy on FB use a harbor freight 20T press to drive out the bearing. Not that I'm advocating a swap, I hate swaps, even if it is just the tranny....but, it may be the easier way to go (and more enjoyable/rewarding).

you may think its expensive but the great thing is they still sell them.also if we dont support mks,dads,etc we will regret it when they are gone.its harder and harder to find parts.thank you guys for still doing it.

Hey Guys and Gals, check out our new website Dads Engine Parts Dad

Some time ago I was trying to grab the VSS Signal from the read switch to input into my ECU. Someone else was also trying to do the same. I think that post was lost during the great outage. Anyways... after many electronics projects and owning a volt meter (and properly know how to read circuit diagrams) I finally figured it out. The VSS Signal comes from a reed switch. That reed switch only switches a ground signal. You can grab the signal from one of the connectors, but I wanted to do non-destructive. I grabbed a ring terminal and attached it under the screw directly to the right of the speedometer. You want to use the lower of the two screws. I'm going to call it VSS-Out This is a floating ground. So to use the signal, you need to add a pull up to 12v (for most applications, 5v for others). This gives you a high signal (+12v or +5v) as the normal state and a low signal (ground) when the switch activates. There are 4 pulses per revolution, resulting in a square wave (⎍⎍⎍) . This should work for just about any ECU unless the ecu is expecting an AC Sine wave or VR Signal. You will need to attach a diode inline from VSS-Out if you are expecting the intermittent wipers to still work, abs, or the cruise control. The line on the diode should point towards the cluster. Attach a wire to the opposite side of the diode with a 10k resistor and connect the other leg of the resistor to 12v. Then from the side of the resistor opposite 12v you can attach the wire to the ECU. I attached a basic diagram

Going around the corners is a little tricky. I had to slice the back side of the U-channel of the edge trim with a razor blade to get it to fold around nice. Used a few dabs of 3M trim adhesive to hold it in position on the back side. Edge trim was sourced from McMaster-Carr. Leave the little gap on the bottom for moisture to run out...just like it was stock.

I agree with Crash. Bad shaft seals could certainly allow some smelly gases to escape, but I highly doubt it would be enough to classify as really bad or strong that you'd pick up in the cabin while driving. Shaft seals are about the diameter of a dime. You either have a exhaust manifold crack or it might be as simple as a exhaust gasket. Depending on your downpipe setup there's 2 joints - one at the turbo and one a bit lower by the trans. Also, if you don't find anything there - other things to consider - there is an oil feed line and coolant fed lines on the turbo that can weep or leak under boost and burn off on the hot turbo and create some pretty bad smells. My recommendation would be to buy a turbo gasket set and some exhaust gaskets, take everything apart, inspect your manifold thoroughly and reinstall everything with fresh gaskets.

“Full” story: There were 2 versions used in 85 and I did not receive pictures of the harness-side of the ECU which had two green plug receivers vs green and yellow. He contacted me Saturday and a replacement was UPS’d out Monday morning, with tracking. So yes, it was made right, immediately. -Starquest Steve

Found it and it tests good under vacuum and pressure. Should clean up well. The rust on the bottom side isn't bad. I'll send the whole distributor. I don't have a use for it since going MPI and ditching this unit. Shoot me a PM with your shipping address.

It's kinda quiet around here these days. Just thought I'd thow out a HELLO to all of us that are still here. Old and new. Hope you are all having a great night in the shop with your StarQuest. I know I am 😊

Hi everyone, I was able to get the car to start-- nothing serious. Removing the sparkplugs and reseating them and getting a new battery did the trick. It's been my weekend driver, wonderful vehicle and I love it. I don't like to drive it when many people are out though for the reason in the title. It was pointed out to me about two weeks ago and I'm trying to figure out for the life of me why this would be an issue. Two months into ownership, I'm really impressed with the care this car was given by the previous owner. There was a thread posted here, maybe a decade back that someone said you'd see rear brake light and rear blinkers not working if there was an issue with the hazard button on the dash hood. I don't seem to have any issues there. I also can't find the thread again, unfortunately. My front hazard mode works fine, my front blinkers will blink and I'm all good. If there's any where I should start besides changing out the bulbs or something (already went through that, got a whole set of bulbs for every lamp and fixture for the car), it'd be appreciated. Just to reiterate, my rear blinkers and brake lights are not working. I'm able to turn on the rear lights otherwise, that doesn't seem to be an issue either! The body work has been going well otherwise, all the rust has been removed and I've made myself a fiberglass mold that I've printed on a 3d printer for the rocker trims for the 85 flatbody that have rotted. This has been a wonderful process and I can't stop loving this car. (Would be happy to pass the .stl for it if any of you have a flatbody. I couldn't find the original part when looking it up, so I figured I'd just draft it up!) I've also fixed the upholstery on the driver's seat. Looks and feels good as new.

That title heading needs an explanation. In 2016 when I had the car painted during restoration, the paint shop told me not to wax the car for the first year. Well, 1 year turned into 2 years, into 3, into 4 ... now its 9 years later. I haven't washed the car with actual water in probably the last 4 or 5 years. (I really do not like washing Starquests due to the foam front bumper support holding water and rotting out the bumper support). The car is garage kept, only driven on nice days and I've always used a Griot's Speed Shine spray wax on it - so it's not like the paint is seeing any abuse, but for whatever reason I was thinking about it this week and I felt like today was the day. Gave it a quick wash Went over the whole car with a clay bar. And then waxed it with some Meguiar's Mirror Glaze. I got this stuff for Christmas from a good friend. I've never really been a user of Meguiar's products, so this was my first time ever using this. I'm impressed. FYI - All these photos are unedited. No filters, just my phone as is. And I took a minute to polish the exhaust tips, which I haven't done in a while. All in all, a pretty meaningless post, but I haven't posted anything meaningful in a while - so why not some pictures of the car! Just trying to keep this forum alive. 👍

Dad aka Randy Gaines, a long time trusted member and part supplier for our cars offers this on his website: https://dadsengineparts.com/dep/productview.php?product_id=Inline Fuel filt Jimmy

Hey everybody, Hope this post finds you all well, I have been lurking for a little while and watching lots of videos to see what I'd be getting myself into with getting myself a Dodge Conquest/Mitsubishi Starion. Really love their look, flat or wide body. I recently got an 85 Conquest from a friend who had it laying in storage. I like to think it's in pretty good condition and the interior is a real gem. The digital dash is to die for, and there's just something all too charming about the car as a whole. I know that I'm in for some surprises with a 40 year old car, but I'm excited to start. I've studying up as much as I can about the G54B and some common failure points from you guys, and I know I'm in for a very fun ride. The only real issues on it seem to be a head gasket related problem, some minor panel rust on the wheel wells, and some clear-coat separation on the hood. I'm excited to get this thing punched up and looking beautiful. A little about myself: I am a software developer and studied electrical engineering. I live in Texas. New homeowner and starting a family soon (I hope!) I'd like to see myself in manufacturing one day, but programming just seems to pay the bills a little better. I like to program for fun too, I work a lot on signals processing as a matter of hobby and real-time optimizations for graphics rendering, but my heart will always be stuck on seeing something real and physical and I hope to be in a field that'll let me do that before I die. My family used to run a machine shop and I was raised in that, and I miss the days of being able to ask my dad, "Hey, I want to make something..." and he'd show me. Life story aside, I hope to get to continue getting great information and insight from you guys and that I won't try your patience too much when I ask a question or seven. Thanks again!

Here's some more pictures. These were kindly taken by my friend who offered me the car. Very excited to get in and do some deep cleaning but, just looking at everything, it really appears to be in fine condition compared to the few I've found around Texas that I could get within my budget and repair-tolerance. Gas tank is definitely first on the list in terms of things. Undercarriage looked great too. He did a wonderful job of keeping this in good of shape as one could for 40 years old when it was his occasional driver. I've scoped out a reasonable budget to make it run, and some overflow to "make it OEM+" (as my mechanic friend puts it). But, first things first is just hitting those common problems as discussed. Thanks for the warm welcome, guys. Here's a picture where you can see the rust on the rear panel wheel well a little more clearly. I'm not too worried about that, all things can be fixed in time.

That response has you rebuilding the bottom end ... cleaning the block and putting in new bearings. If you just had a blown head gasket you could literally just pull the head and leave the block in the car and replace the gasket. Depending on the severity of the situation, of course, but that response is more of a total engine rebuild.

Ha, yea i miss it.

I personally don't know anyone who has one, let alone someone who has one for sale. That said, if you do some digging on here there was someone years ago who had posted a link to the audio file. If that file is still around and you have some graphic art skills you might be able to ship the cassette image and recreate it? Heck, I think I'm talking myself into this.

Finally purchased the remaining parts needed to install the Motocam MS3 engine management system. Rebuild the rear suspension two years ago. Plans are to have it on the road soon and mechanically sorted by fall. Then to tackle the horrible color change.

Looking forward to seeing everyone there. My reservations are from Thursday til Sunday, 7/24-7/27 at Econo Lodge PF Riverside. Jimmy

At the end of last season my OEM rad starting leaking. I took it to a shop to have it looked at, but they wanted crazy money to fix it. So, I'm eventually going to attempt to fix it myself, but for now I needed to get the car back up and running so I can get the car moved and get a different project in there. Anyway, I ordered up the CXRacing Radiator since it's about the only left you can get. I've heard and read on here often about "fitment issues". I wanted to share my experiences and feedback here. Showed up boxed really well. It's a nice quality pc, gives a good impression out of the box. I decided while I had it all apart to clean up the fans. So I took them apart. I cleaned all the bugs and road rash with Simple Green and then scrubbed them down with some 3M pads. Then I pained them white with some plastic adhesion spray paint. Reinstalled them. Still have some Natallica repro stickers left over from my restoration - so I figured it was time to bust these out too. Remounted them in the OEM locations. When I went to mount the fans I ran into some of my first issues. Each fan has 4 mount points, on each fan, only 2 of them matched up, the other 2 needed slight adjustment. Not bad, but just off by about a mm or two. I used a Dremel with a metal grinding bit to enlarge the radiator holes out a bit. After adjusting a few holes I got everything mounted up alright. Then I ran into the next issue. When I test fit it in the car, I had a vary similar issue withe mount tabs from CXRacing. I had to enlarge them just slightly to get the holes to line up there too. In this pic I had to enlarge the right hole a bit. Finally able to get it installed and mounted up. Fitment is definitely tight as others have said. Here's a pic of the distance between the fan blade and the water pump pulley. There's about an 1/8 inch clearance. Here it is from the front. All back together. I did have a little trouble with the OVCP, but after some "persuading", I got things to line up. So, overall, a pretty easy install. Not 100% plug and play. But, if you have any capabilities at all, it shouldn't be bad to overcome any fitment issues you might run into.

2025 Starion and Conquest meet July 25-27 in Pigeon Forge, TN NO STARION OR CONQUEST REQUIRED TO ATTEND. Hosted at the Econo Lodge Pigeon Forge Riverside. Hotel link with the best price is in the comments. You don't have to stay at the host hotel. You can stay at any of the hundreds of hotels, motels, or vacation rentals in the area, but the gatherings will be at this Econo Lodge. This is the oldest, longest running annual Starion and Conquest meet in the USA--and likely longest running SQ meet the world! Since 1999, StarQuest enthusiasts have flocked to Pigeon Forge, TN every July for this meet. These people come to show off their cars and to see cars like theirs in the wild (rather than their modern habitat in garages and/or on jackstands) They also come to take in the numerous family friendly local attractions in the area effectively making the trip a mini vacation for the whole family. This meet was once mighty and hosted 50+ Starions and Conquests as well as 100+ people but attendance has dwindled over the years as the cars have gotten older and less reliable. Also, the decline in visitation of the "Meet Planner" section here at starquestclub.com in favor of Facebook has made it harder to advertise this meet with any consistency. We have not publicly advertised the meet in several years. Those who know, just show up. This year we decided to advertise it and will try to keep it bumped up on the Facebook groups and on starquestclub.com to see if we can regrow the meet rather than let it fade away. We didn't come this far--to only come this far! In recent years we have had as many as 10 SQ's and as few as 3 SQ's. There is a core group of about 20 us that make it every year with or without a StarQuest. This meet has elevated to more of a StarQuest family reunion with a few SQs rather than being solely about the cars. The cars brought us together, but the friendships became the focus. Every year we have new and old faces. As stated boldly above, you don't have to bring a Starion or Conquest to attend. If you have a SQ that you can push, pull, or drag, we would love to see it! If driving or towing your SQ just isn't in the cards, just come hang out with us and BS about our shared interest in these cars or anything else that comes to mind. Our group is friendly and made up of a perfect balance of young/old and introverts/extroverts to keep it fun and exciting! There are usually cruises to the infamous “Tail of the Dragon” which is an 11 mile stretch with 318 curves as well as what we like to call “Area 32” which is just as curvy as the Dragon. Drive it in your SQ or daily driver. They are a great experience no matter what car you drive! Since this is as much of a people meet as it is a car meet, you will find the most fun occurs in the evenings when we all come back together after the group dinner/s to hang out until the wee hours talking and enjoying some adult beverages. If you are not careful, you will walk away with lifelong friends! If we see growth this year, we may bring back the car show, door prizes, etc. for PF26. If you have read this far, that means you must have some curiosity or interest in joining us this year! If you have any questions, comments, or concerns, drop them in the comments of one of these posts in any of the groups they are posted in. There are multiple live threads about this meet running on the Starion and Conquest groups on Facebook as well. Let's rekindle this meet to keep it alive for current and future enthusiasts!

Looks like it also has a HKS cat-back exhaust system on it which is not mentioned.

Thanks for posting. Don't have any interest in purchasing but I was using the detailed photos to look close at the gaps in the front end panels (note my recent collision repair post). It's very helpful to see what they were on what hopefully is an unmolested car. Japanese cars have good build quality but did notice some deltas. I saw the decals too, and it does look like there is a bit more orange peel in the paint than what was typically seen in an original car. Although there are scratches, etc. shown in the photos. If it were repainted, it was a while ago. Not sure, but the decals do raise the question. Was there such a thing as a 'later 86 CQ' which had the newer decals? I didn't see a photo of the door tag with the build date. Obviously, the wheels were refurbished given the black insets, but I like how they kept the polished lip around the center cap. For the 86s, I actually really like the black starions that had the red interior (not sure if they had that combo with the conquests?) I remember years back there was a post on here with an original owner selling his 86 starion in this color combo that had 15k original miles on it. The story was that his son, I believe, took it out for a joyride and sideswiped a parked car, damaging the one side of the car. He parked it in a barn for years, hoping to fix it, but offloaded it for like $1200. I wanted that one bad but it was snagged up by another member quick. I bet that thread still exists on here.

Never mind I am just dumb and didn't look at the manual

nice to see interest in the cars.but he is correct parts are pricey and cheap ones are hard to find.starquestparts.net has some cars so check there to get a vibe on picing.i have seen $3000 ones out there but not running and not in great shape.good luck

My Conquest went through several stereo upgrades in the early 2000s, each hacking it up worse than the one before it. By the time 2025 rolled around, I had two amps (one under the passenger seat and one screwed in behind the back seat), a 12" subwoofer, aftermarket 6.5" speakers in the doors installed in cut out holes that were half screwed into the door cards and would fall out with a hard door slam and a single-DIN CD player. I stopped using the stereo because of mystery bursts of loud static that would randomly take over while playing music. I decided it was time to simplify everything. I pulled the amps, pulled all of the amp wiring from beneath the carpets and trunk and traced it all the way up to the battery and removed it. Initially I wanted to go back to the stock radio. After looking at options for connecting bluetooth through the old tape deck (plus the power output of a stock radio from the 1980's), I decided to go with a modern head unit. I ended up with a Sony XAV-AX4000 head unit (basically a big screen slab) and adding some new 6.5 in speakers to the doors (the old ones had lost their grills and been kicked to death over the years). I can't detail too much of the work involved because I went through CarToys, but I worked closely with the installer to pull out all trim I could ahead of time so he didn't have to stress about the pieces of the old car. I paid an extra $85 for them to rebuild my old hacked harness plugs and connecting an adapter plug rather than hardwiring the new system in. They also rebuilt my speaker holes with some plastic so the new speakers are securely mounted. Final result is a pretty non-obtrusive screen that syncs immediately with my phone, and a very easy unit to live with. For nostalgia, I took a picture of the old radio and set it as the background. The aftermarket speakers are really lacking in bass, and I might add a small subwoofer next year although I hate to go back to dragging on the charging system. Even though it's not period correct, I am very happy with the setup and thought I'd share. I thought it made the car much more pleasant to use on a regular basis and I have been daily driving it to work when the weather is decent. EDIT: I guess based on my posting count I don't have reply rights on this thread, so I'll answer the splash screen question here. There is no splash screen options that I am aware of and when I checked the manual I didn't see any options. It boots up very fast, so it pretty much goes to that home screen with the radio wallpaper, then connects to bluetooth followed by the Android Auto connection. In about 10 seconds it has maps and music pulled up on it and is playing whatever I was playing last on the phone. Thanks for the positive responses!

Welcome Aboard! I know Hellrazr well. He went TN to PA and 5 years back I went PA to TN. Nashville is about 3 hours off for me, but I'm local ish. As for parts, I don't have a lot of extra stuff. Good luck with the project! If/when you need some help let us know 😃

I suppose that makes sense. Thanks for the info!

Just dont know how to upload pictures. Its not the 90s anymore. Un-limit the size of pictures guys. been on there since before 2002, like my sig says. I was on here, on dial up. that is how I got my starion fix! Love this site and i want to keep the knowledge going. You cant do that with on 500k pictures come on!! I will help if needed. This site has to keep going!

Power automatic seatbelts were only on U.S. spec cars. It was part of the passive restraint rule if you didn't want to fit the vehicle with airbags at that time.

Did you happen to unplug the light controller on the left side of the glovebox? If this is unplugged, your headlights will go up and then not come down with the switch.

Thanks for the recommendation! I have used FCP Euro before, actually the last time ECS couldn’t fulfill my order. And from now on, that’s probably where I will go. I also just used RMEuropean for the pressure plate bolts and had no issues. The flywheel bolt finally showed up last week. Got the clutch in over the weekend. Although it engages with the pedal about an inch from the floorboard. No adjustments on a mini. Reading forums, it says this is common and needs a new slave and a good bleeding. So the slave is now on order…one of these days this car will be out of my garage so I can get started on the CQ. I did pick up a few cosmetic parts from a member last week! Front bumper cover, header panel, really good shape passenger fender, headlight cover (just the cover)…. Some more stuff left to acquire tho.

Sorry to hear about the wreck… At least it didn’t get it any worse, definitely looks fixable. I have all of the parts in northern Virginia, I’m not the cheapest guy in the block, but I’m willing to do what I can. I have full cut radiator supports, hoods etc. If you don’t have any luck, just hit me up. Steve

Hotel in Pigeon Forge, TN | Econo Lodge® Official Site | Econo Lodge Pigeon Forge Riverside

Don't see these very often. No Reserve: 37k-Mile 1985 Plymouth Conquest 5-Speed for sale on BaT Auctions - ending February 25 (Lot #181,635) | Bring a Trailer

Sold for $15,000 👌

think staquestparts.net has one and i also think boosted diamonds makes one now too

I use one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/23-gallon-manual-fluid-extractor-62643.html

I don’t buy from car dealers unless they’re losing money. It’s an interesting standard I’ve set for myself. 😎 He can make money off someone else. Not me… Poor moron knows nothing about the car. He’s just another lousy dealer who sourced inventory from auction…

Size 24 is the goto for me, that with the biggest CCA i could get. I want to say mine are 800 CA or so. Diehard silver from Advance auto has been doing me well.

I have a home made unit that I like to use, but a mityvac will do the job too. If you are careful. The reservoir that comes with those is not real large and if you accidentally suck brake fluid into the vac pump it usually dies pretty quickly.

Thanks everyone. As soon as I can swim out to my car, I'll check all of your suggestions and report back!

Check the float iin the fluid reservior and ensure it moves freely up and down. Jimmy

Is the fluid low in the brake master cylinder reservoir?

It can be the ABS system as well, that module is in the rear hatch.

Does it really matter if you have the wires backwards ? I am starting to wonder if this is my problem. What are symptoms of backwards wires?

Does it really matter if you have the wires backwards ? I am starting to wonder if this is my problem. What are symptoms of backwards wires?